Vinous Event: Soldera Vertical in London

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | OCTOBER 25, 2016

Gianfranco Soldera remains one of Italy’s most iconic
producers. Our recent vertical tasting in London provided an extraordinary
opportunity to check in on a number of Soldera Brunellos back to 1981. In
particular, I was struck by how well wines from the less renowned vintages
showed. The Soldera tasting was the second event in a Vinous London
double-header that began with a vertical of Bartolo Mascarello Barolos held the
day before.









<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477420743868-1.+Glasses+with+Flower_Cover+copy.jpg"> For more on Gianfranco Soldera and his wines, readers might
enjoy revisiting my article <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/soldera-brunello-di-montalcino-1977-2000-jul-2008">Soldera:
Brunello di Montalcino 1977-2000</a> which includes quite a bit of
historical background information on Soldera and his Case Basse property in
Montalcino.&nbsp;As
luck would have it, I recently participated in a second Soldera vertical, with
many of the same wines. For further reference, those notes are <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/soldera-redux-1981-2006-oct-2016">here</a>.
















Gordon Ramsey’s maze was once again an ideal setting. The
cuisine was creative, but not overly whimsical, and all the dishes worked
beautifully with the wines. We opened the bottles a few hours before service
and checked them for soundness. None of the wines was decanted. I chose to open
wines from the most challenging vintages, such as 1981 and 1987 last, expecting
they might lose some intensity if opened too soon. Instead, the opposite
happened, as those wines only improved with time in the glass. As is our
custom, the wines were served in thematic flights rather than in strict
chronological order, an approach I find both keeps the palate fresh and allows
for comparisons of wines with similar attributes that may be separated by years
or even decades. When all was said and done, we enjoyed another memorable
London evening of food, wine and conversation.

Canapés - Chef’s
Selection

2004 Salon<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477420763161-1.+Tataki+2016-04-27+19.42.25+copy.jpg"> 

Cumbrian Beef Tataki, Smoked Ponzu&nbsp;

Cumbrian Beef Tataki,
Smoked Ponzu

The Early Years: 1981,
1982, 1987, 1988

The wines in the first flight show Soldera in his early
formative years. One of the real surprises of the night, the 1981 Brunello di Montalcino is
magnificent. The aromatics alone are striking. Smoke, saddle leather, herbs and
dark-fleshed fruits all develop beautifully in the glass. With time, the 1981
gains a surprising amount of power and freshness. Although mature, the 1981 is
marvelously intact. What a great way to start this tasting. The 1982 Brunello di Montalcino is one of
Gianfranco Soldera’s early masterpieces. A rush of sweet red cherry and plum
notes open up first in a deep, vertical Brunello endowed with superb balance
and pure class. Creamy, silky and wonderfully open-knit, the 1982 will drink
well for at least another decade, perhaps more. The 1987 Brunello di Montalcino is another huge surprise. Although the
vintage may have been largely forgotten, Soldera’s 1987 can’t be. Virile and
almost shockingly imposing, the 1987 is a bit burly around the edges next to
the very best wines in this tasting, but it has held up beautifully. What a
gorgeous wine it is. Expectations are on an entirely different level with the
1988, a wine that delivers big time. Vertical, fresh and nuanced, the 1988 Brunello di Montalcino exudes
class. Soaring aromatics, a persistent spine of tannin and a total sense of
delineation are the signatures. A host of mentholated, spiced notes resonate on
the super-expressive finish. This first flight ends on a real high note.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477425711629-1.+early+years+centered.jpg">

Roast Turbot, Orzo,
Mussels, Saffron Sauce

Sleeper Vintages: 2000
Riserva, 2003 Riserva, 2005 Riserva

The 2000 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva is a delicate, aromatically nuanced wine. Sweet floral
notes, dried cherry and tobacco all lift from the glass. Today, the 2000 does
not appear to have the structure of the very best years. If anything, it comes
across as a rare Soldera wine that will drink best over the medium-term. Once
again, the 2003 Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva surprises. Powerful, rich and beautifully layered, the 2003 offers
terrific depth, but there is absolutely no sign of the scorching heat that
characterized the growing season. Dark cherry, plum and licorice notes meld
into the expressive, inviting finish. The 2003 is a rewarding vintage for
current drinking. Silky, gracious and lifted, the 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is another wine that is quite
expressive today. Sweet red cherry, mint and floral notes grace a mid-weight,
lithe Brunello that shows the more restrained side of the estate. The flavors
are pure and nicely delineated, but the 2005 lacks the pure power and depth of
the best Riservas. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477420911546-1.+second+flight+copy.jpg"> 

Duck Breast, Truffle,
Endives, Chanterelle Mushrooms

The Mid-1990s: 1993
Riserva, 1994 Riserva, 1995 Riserva Case Basse, 1995 Riserva Intistieti, 1996
Riserva

It is a real treat to taste five Riservas from the mid-1990s
together. The 1995 Riserva Intistieti is a last minute addition, as I can’t
resist the temptation of opening it next to the Riserva Case Basse for the sake
of comparing the Riservas from Soldera’s two vineyards. This is a flight of all
highlights. The 1993 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva takes us on a journey. It is at times quite open, while
at other times it is much more reticent. Powerful, intense and structured, the
1993 is at its best towards the end of the night. Another surprise, the 1994 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is
off the charts. On this night the 1994 is more refined and layered than the
1993, with notable depth and tons of pure explosive power. A host of dark
cherry, plum, spice, tobacco and leather infuse the finish. What a wine!

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477420962712-1.+the+1995s+copy.jpg"> 

The 1995 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva Case Basse is soft, voluptuous and inviting. An
especially racy, forward wine, the 1995 Case Basse impresses with its succulent
dark fruit, silky tannins and sexy, alluring personality. Some Soldera wines
have real sensual quality. The 1995 Case Basse is one of them. The 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Intistieti is powerful, vivid and explosive. If the Case Basse is feminine,
the Intistieti is bursting at the seams with masculine intensity. Dark,
brooding and tannic, the 1995 Riserva Intistieti is simply magnificent in every
way. It is one of the highlights of the night. The 1996 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is another rich, explosive
wine. Remarkably youthful and tannic, the 1996 could still benefit from more
time in bottle. Although it doesn’t have the finesse of the very best Riservas,
the 1996 is super-impressive. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477420991000-1.+corks+copy.jpg">

Saddle of Herdwick
Lamb, Spiced Aubergine, Raw Vegetables

Reference Points: 1997
Riserva, 1999 Riserva, 2001 Riserva, 2004 Riserva

This flight of more recent benchmarks is fabulous. Where
should I start? The 1997 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva is rich, flamboyant and exceptionally beautiful. The
ripeness of the vintage comes through loud and clear in the wine’s soft
contours, and yet the 1997 is incredibly well-balanced and harmonious. I wish I
owned more of it. The 1999 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva belongs to the group of Soldera’s most tannic,
structured wines. Explosive, deep and powerful to the core, the 1999 is a tightly-wound
ball of energy. I suspect it will still be a special wine in twenty years.
Finesse and power come together in the 2001
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, a wine that simply has it all. There is not
much left to say, except that the 2001 is one of the most complete and
impeccable wines Gianfranco Soldera has ever made. Tonight it is simply
magnificent. The 2004 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva, on the other hand, might be the single most elegant
wine ever made at the estate. Silky tannins, soaring aromatics and finely
sculpted fruit elevate the 2004 into the realm of the truly sublime. It is
another remarkable, moving wine.

Selection of Cheeses

The Icons: 1983
(magnum), 1983 Riserva (magnum), 1990 Riserva, 2006 Riserva&nbsp;

This last flight brings the evening to a rousing finish. The
1983 Brunello di Montalcino, tasted
from magnum, is exceptional. Dark, powerful and brooding, the 1983 possesses marvelous
depth. A host of tobacco, smoke and leather notes add to the wine’s imposing
personality. One of the many highlights of the evening, the 1983 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has
an extra level of sweetness density than the straight Brunello, with even more tannic
heft underpinning the fruit. Tonight, the wine is every bit as magnificent as
its reputation.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477425769229-1.+mags+of+83.jpg"> 

The 1990 Brunello di
Montalcino Riserva is simply the 1990 Riserva. That’s all there is to it.
Dark, unctuous and remarkably opulent, the 1990 is like no other wine in the
Soldera canon, except possibly the 1983 Riserva. Utterly seamless and
voluptuous, the 1990 Riserva is also one of the greatest wines ever made
anywhere. It’s not easy to follow the 1990 Riserva, but the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is
more than up to the challenge. Bright, translucent and beautifully focused
throughout, the 2006 is all about energy and delineation. It is remarkably
accessible for a young Soldera.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477421893252-2.+Fish++copy.jpg"> 

Roast Turbot, Orzo,
Mussels, Saffron Sauce

As the evening wraps up, my most enduring memory is surely
the consistency of the wines. All of the famous vintages live up to their lofty
reputations, but so many other wines are deserving of a special mention, especially
those from weaker years that show what is possible with the right combination
of passion and a relentless pursuit of excellence.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1477421919611-7.+1990s+copy.jpg"> 

<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/wines?sort%5Bdirection%5D=asc&amp;sort%5Bname%5D=id&amp;wine_filter%5Barticle_id%5D=1484&amp;wine_filter%5Bproducer_id%5D=2730&amp;producer=true">See all the wines</a> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/soldera-redux-1981-2006-oct-2016">Soldera Redux: 1981-2006</a>, Antonio Galloni, October 2016 

<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/soldera-case-basse-brunello-di-montalcino-1981-2006-jan-2015">Soldera – Case Basse: Brunello di
Montalcino 1981-2006</a>, Antonio Galloni, January 2015

<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/soldera-brunello-di-montalcino-1979-2006-aug-2014">Soldera:
Brunello di Montalcino 1979-2006</a>,&nbsp;Antonio Galloni, August 2014

<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/soldera-brunello-di-montalcino-1977-2000-jul-2008">Soldera:
Brunello di Montalcino 1977-2000</a>,&nbsp;Antonio Galloni, July 2008

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