<div>Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold TastingBY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;November 12, 2024January 2020. A New Year message pops into my mailbox noting the
significance.“Vingt-vingt.”“Vin Vin!” Surely, an omen that it would be a great year?Two months later, the entire world was pulling down its shutters as the
pandemic commenced its world tour. A virus completely dismantled normal life.
All we could do was go jogging on empty roads and buy en primeur. The
2020 growing season rests in a surreal haze of upturned history, so I was
naturally intrigued to see how the wines would show when it was 2020’s turn for
the annual Southwold tasting in January, having already tasted them just after
bottling. As usual, we convened in London for three days, with sessions devoted
to the dry whites, reds and Sauternes. We tasted the wines single-blind in peer
groups, mostly within appellations, with all bottles coming from châteaux except
for one.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1731430438148-full+bottles+line+up_copy.JPG"> The Growing SeasonThe world might have been upturned, but the weather will always
continue.The 2020 growing season began with an unseasonably warm winter that saw
the highest temperatures in a century and one-third of the average frost. After
the previous dry summer, vineyard managers welcomed the high rainfall—twice the
average during November, December and March—with some châteaux reporting a
year’s precipitation in six months. Between these events, a series of
storm-laden low-pressure systems swept across the region during January and
February. Most of a somewhat uneven bud break took place in the middle of
March, and the end of that month saw a dive in temperatures down to -12°C in
some locales, with snow on March 30. Thankfully, frost damage was limited to
prone spots. April was warm and rainy, conditions that encouraged rapid shoot
growth. May was the fourth hottest in 75 years. It was like summer in terms of
temperature due to hot spells at the beginning and the end of the month, with 16
days above 25°C. Humidity and warmth provided perfect conditions for mildew, necessitating
that vineyard managers be vigilant and seize every dry window to spray and
protect their vines. Below-average temperatures from May 10 to May 15 coincided
with another rainy spell. Flowering came early in mid-to-late May with
little&nbsp;coulure. By that point, winemakers knew they were heading
toward an early harvest.June began cool and overcast, delaying vine growth, while persistent
rain increased mildew pressure. Some estates suffered considerable losses with
some&nbsp;millerandage.&nbsp;In the final week of June, the weather changed again, beginning nearly
two months of warm and extremely dry conditions. Several estates reported not a
single drop of rain during the 54-day dry period. Hydric stress was initially stymied
by the preceding months of rain, with only minor stress noticed on young vines
on free-draining gravel and sandy soils. Clayey soils in Saint-Estèphe and the
Right Bank advantaged those châteaux in their superior moisture-retaining
capacity. Uneven&nbsp;véraison&nbsp;slowed down maturity in the most
stressed plots. By the second week of August, winemakers grew concerned as
vines began to suffer during a heat wave. Nighttime temperatures during that
period remained above 20°C, giving the vines no time to rest. This heat
triggered convectional storms between August 9 and 14, alleviating the hydric
stress. However, rainfall varied, highest in the northern Médoc and lowest on
the Right Bank, exaggerating unevenness between appellations and terroirs
depending on grape variety and vine age.Storm clouds dispersed, and clement, warm and dry conditions prevailed
through to harvest, concentrating the berries and sugar levels. Temperatures
were slightly cooler than average, and the chilly nights between 12-14°C &nbsp;enabled berries to retain acidity that
ultimately imparted freshness to the wines. The first two weeks in September
were warm and sunny, accelerating sugar accumulation.Picking of the dry whites began on August 14 with the earliest-ripening
Sauvignon Blanc, although the heart of the&nbsp;vendange&nbsp;was over
the final ten days in August, seemingly now the norm. The Merlot came in
starting around September 10 under warm and dry conditions, predicating a
propitious vintage in Merlot-dominated blends, especially on the Right Bank.
Some estates harvested in the mornings because of the heat, keeping both fruit
and workers fresh, with some châteaux investing in increasingly useful cool
rooms. Often, there is a pause between the Merlot harvest and the
later-ripening Cabernets, but several estates continued straight on as the
Cabernets were phenolically ripe. This proved crucial. The weather turned
inclement around mid-September, with sporadic light rain showers. This is where
the true quality of the 2020 growing season becomes a little opaque—many
winemakers euphemistically brushed off the effect of this rainfall as inconsequential.
Too light to dilute the grapes, if anything, it merely warded off shriveling
and nudged them toward full ripeness. But conditions worsened—collateral damage
courtesy of Storm Alex—which prompted some winemakers to panic, with the more
risk-averse expediting the picking of Cabernet Sauvignon. Most harvests were
done and dusted either by the end of September or early October.&nbsp;The WinesAs I have written previously, when tasting wines blind within their peer
groups, one is almost always a touch more critical. Juxtaposition ruthlessly
exposes any shortcomings. Moreover, despite all efforts to prepare these young
wines (double-decanting each one and ensuring optimal temperatures), the fact
is that some wines are not predisposed to show their best. Some just shut down,
acting stubbornly as if deliberately trying to deceive the taster—it is part of
their growing-up phase. Though winemakers are almost obsessive about making their
clarets approachable, a leopard cannot just change its spots. Whilst tannins
have unquestionably become more malleable in their youth, the DNA of Bordeaux
châteaux is as unchanged as the terroir. Perhaps that’s no bad thing. The greatest
Bordeaux should be long-distance runners, not sprinters that soon run out of
breath.As a consequence, some of my scores are a little lower than when I
encountered these wines at the end of 2022. That’s normal. However, there is
plenty to savor. I was still impressed, and it did not dent my admiration. I
would still rank 2020 ahead of 2018 and slightly behind both 2019 and 2022. Perhaps
2020 doesn’t quite possess the vaulting ambition of those two vintages, though
in some cases, it surpasses the best of both.The dry whites were a little hit-and-miss. I was expecting more from Les
Champs Libres, which seems intent on following its sibling Lafleur in sulking
during blind tastings. It is a little reductive on this day, though the Grand-Village
Blanc compensated and represents a great value. There are some standouts
amongst this category, not the least of which are an impressive
Malartic-Lagravière Blanc, Domaine de Chevalier Blanc and Smith Haut-Lafitte
Blanc (the usual suspects), plus a pleasant surprise courtesy of Couhins-Lurton.
I couldn’t get my head around the Haut-Brion Blanc, which might not have been
the best bottle, nor did the La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc shine. Given the price
of those, I might spend my pennies on the excellent La Louvière Blanc. Our lineup
also included a range of dry Sauternes. I feel these are still finding their
place inasmuch as I rarely find myself yearning for a dry white Sauternes. It
is a step in the right direction, though one forced upon winemakers because their
sweet wines continue to be difficult to sell.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1731430520376-sauternes+bottles.JPG">In 2020, the sweet Sauternes reflect a very good rather than excellent
vintage. Highlights include de Fargues, Rieussec, Doisy-Daëne and Coutet,
though none exhausted my supply of superlatives. Yquem is superb, although I could
not winnow it out from its peers. Overall, they miss the acidic spine that
lends them that all-important nerve to counterbalance the residual sugar. The
best 2020s are redeemed by wonderful purity and seductiveness, plus they will
be more approachable than other vintages.Now for the reds. Let’s commence on the Right Bank with the largest
flotilla of wines: Saint-Émilion. This is a much-improved appellation that is now
host to an array of styles instead of a “monoculture” of opulent wines that
seemed to come from the same template.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1731430550941-right+bank+bottles_copy.JPG">Did you buy the 2020 Canon when released en primeur? You did?
Good. Because it’s ruddy marvelous, a benchmark for this historic estate and
perhaps their greatest release under winemaker Nicolas Audebert and his team.
It’s not quite perfection in my book…but it’s in the same postcode. If you’ve
got more to shell out, the usual suspects all deliver. Ausone and Cheval Blanc
are at the top of the pile, with Figeac, Angélus, Bélair-Monange, Valandraud
and a reformatted, more refined Pavie close on that pair’s heels. There are
plenty of others that merit a mention: TrotteVieille, which meliorated
wonderfully in the glass, Tour Saint-Christophe and a brilliant La Clotte from
the Vauthier family. I was also taken by Côte de Baleau, Grand Mayne,
Berliquet, Le Dragon de Quintus (the surprise package, given that it’s a second
label), Poesia and Les Grandes Murailles. A few wines in this cohort felt a
little smudged by the warmth of the summer, but otherwise, this was a pleasing
showing.&nbsp;The Pomerol flight was a bit patchier than I have become accustomed to.
Again, a selection of wines from less propitious terroirs succumbed to the
warmth more than those on the gravel plateau, with VA affecting some of the
bottles. But there are indeed outstanding successes: La Fleur-Petrus, Trotanoy
and L’Eglise-Clinet are utterly delicious, with plenty in the gas tank to
ensure long-term cellaring. The Lafleur will turn into a great wine, but it is often
sultry and introspective at this early stage, which swayed my score away from
where it will ultimately rest. I adored the regal Petrus, though in this
vintage, it doesn’t quite put a large gap between itself and its peers. That
takes nothing away from its finely chiseled tannins and tension. Perhaps
overall, the 2019s in Pomerol have an edge over the 2020s.Moving to Pessac-Léognan, the wines are, again, a little hit-and-miss. I
am not sure what’s going on at Haut-Bergey, but I cannot fathom how it could feel
underripe in a vintage like 2020. Biodynamic practices are fine, but rule one: the
fruit must be ripe. Conversely, the Château de Fieuzal was a little overripe, and
the bottle from Malartic-Lagravière was such an odd showing vis-à-vis previous
bottles that I decided not to score it. Thankfully, the Haut-Brion showed its
class, though on this occasion, I lean slightly toward La Mission Haut-Brion
thanks to its bravura finish—two stunning wines crafted by Jean-Philippe Delmas
and his team. Pape Clément shows more and more elegance each year, though it still
requires time. The Domaine de Chevalier was all old school class on this
occasion, whilst Les Carmes Haut-Brion was floral and fabulous, if not quite
the best vintage that Guillaume Pouthier has fashioned.The appellation of Margaux is what you might call “solid.” Certainly, in
recent years, it has gained consistency by way of those with less auspicious
terroirs upping their game. The real superstar is, predictably, the First
Growth. It ranks amongst the best Left Bank wines of the vintage and is a
stupendous success for Philippe Bascaules and his team. In this tasting, it
shaded the 2020 Palmer, though I found the Palmer very mercurial and difficult
to pin down in the glass. Brane-Cantenac and Rauzan Ségla performed extremely
well, as did the second label, Ségla. Giscours, Malescot Saint-Exupery and
Marquis de Terme were excellent, whilst Prieuré-Lichine, Siran and Dauzac would
probably be kinder to your wallet.Saint-Julien raised the bar with a cluster of outstanding wines. This
was perhaps the flight that solidified 2020 as a bona fide great vintage on the
Left Bank. Léoville Poyferré is the one that really excels—just a fabulous
wine. The 2020 Léoville Las-Cases is primal and nascent. A long-term prospect, it’s
more expensive than the Poyferré, though it’s First Growth in all but name in this
vintage. Hot on its heels, a stunning Léoville and Langoa Barton, with Damien
Barton crafting more finessed and complex wines these days. Gloria,
Beychevelle, Lagrange, Gruaud Larose (rejuvenated under winemaker Virginie
Sallette) and Talbot all showed wonderfully. Perhaps Branaire-Ducru is a little
better in vintages like 2022? This tasting was a reminder, if one was needed, that
Saint-Julien can really turn on the style in a benevolent vintage, arguably
representing better value than the appellation just north…<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1731430593337-first+growths.JPG">Hail! Hail! Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande! Nicolas Glumineau
crafted a scintillating, effortless, composed and delicious wine that, as I
write in my tasting note, flirts with perfection. Don’t get me wrong, the First
Growths are outstanding, although mea culpa, I’m human and completely misread
Lafite-Rothschild, partly because it seemed to have closed up at this juncture.
The Borie family oversaw a superb Grand-Puy-Lacoste, a brilliant Pauillac that
conveys unerring symmetry and poise. The Pichon Baron is delineated and maybe a
little conservative, yet with real panache on the finish.We finish in Saint-Estèphe. Montrose is the standout of the appellation.
It is not the very finest bottle I have encountered, and indeed, it obliges two
or three hours of aeration to show its best. But it is an Everest of a wine,
certainly one to tuck away in a cellar and forget about for at least a decade,
maybe two. The real surprise—though not if you’re Managing Director Véronique
Dausse—is the 2020 Phélan Ségur, surely one of the best values given its
reasonable price, likewise, Montrose’s stablemate, Tronquoy-Lalande. Cos
d’Estournel came across a little more understated aromatically than expected,
though it exhibits a persistent finish, whilst Lafon-Rochet (made when Basile
Tesseron still ran the estate) is another that surpassed expectations.Final ThoughtsIn my original primeur report, composed in the middle of
lockdown, I wrote: “Twenty-twenty was born in a tumultuous world. Let’s pray
that these wines will be enjoyed when we can return to sharing them together.”Thankfully, prayers were answered. Revisiting this vintage, I aver that
warmer summers and higher alcohol with more richness tend to foment a little more
instability and inter-bottle variation. There are more incidences of VA
compared to cooler vintages. That is logical because, despite technological
advances, higher-alcohol wines seem prone to greater variation. But the vintage
does bestow Bordeaux-lovers with a bevy of outstanding wines that should stand
the test of time. It is less crammed with legends in the making, like 2019 or,
I suspect, 2022. The problem that Bordeaux cannot quite square is that its unique
selling proposition is to produce top-level wines in large volume, recently in
almost every vintage. Bravo! However, when prices increase, the pool of
consumers willing to pay those prices diminishes. There’s no rarity factor like
there is in Burgundy.This undermines the raison d’être of buying primeur. So,
the top wines in this report not only compete against each other, but also with
themselves in terms of alternative available vintages. The day I wrote this paragraph,
the Financial Times quoted a Liv-Ex report that claims: “Only four of the top
estates have delivered positive en primeur returns post-release in 2017-2021”.
Not good PR. That puts a vintage like 2020 in a tricky position. Checking some
of the prices of the 2020s in this report, some have fallen since I tasted the
wines in January.So why buy then? That’s entirely up to consumers. Maybe, if economic
conditions change, consumers will flood back and pick up vintages like 2020?
Market prices will always find their equilibrium, and if that necessitates
heavy discounting or even dumping overpriced stock to free up cash, nobody can
stop that.But my job is to report on the quality, and for sure, the 2020 Bordeaux
reds are going to give a great deal of pleasure.The only question is, if not now, then when?&nbsp; </div><div>© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.</div><div><div><hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/bordeaux-2020-saving-the-best-for-last-feb-2023">Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last</a>, Antonio Galloni, February 2023<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/thrice-is-nice-bordeaux-2020-in-bottle-feb-2023">Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle</a>, Neal Martin, February 2023</div><div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/2020-bordeaux-en-primeur-almost-back-to-normal-jun-2021">2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal</a>, Antonio Galloni, June 2021<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vingt-vingt-vins-bordeaux-2020-may-2021">Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020</a>, Neal Martin, May 2021</div></div>

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