2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Version en Français)
2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall…
BY ANTONIO GALLONI |
La version française suit
Left Bank: Margaux | Pauillac | Pessac-Léognan | Saint-Estèphe | Saint-Julien | Sauternes | Satellites
Right Bank: Pomerol | Saint-Émilion | Satellites
The bottled 2017 Bordeaux capture all ups and downs that were characteristic of a growing season marked by dramatic frost and uneven weather throughout the rest of the year. Although 2017 is not a great vintage across the board, it is a vintage with many great wines, as readers will discover in these paragraphs and reviews. On a personal note, I like challenging vintages like 2017, because it is precisely in these kinds of years that professional critics have the opportunity to add the most value. Sadly, there does not seem to be a whole lot of interest in these wines, for reasons I will explain below. That will almost certainly create some buying opportunities down the road for savvy readers.
I won’t recount the entire 2017 growing season blow by blow here. Readers can find a synopsis in my article 2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter. A devastating spring frost, uneven weather during the summer and rain just before harvest are some of the key events that inform the growing season and wines. In the most dramatic cases, frost wiped out all or most of the production at a number of estates and sharply curtailed yields at other properties. Leaving aside those cases, though, readers will find more than a few stunning, rivetingly beautiful wines in 2017.
Sunset in Saint-Émilion.
The Right Bank Shines…
In March 2018, I wrote “2017 is, in my opinion, very clearly a Right Bank vintage…a number of 2017s on the Right Bank are positively thrilling.” I feel the same way today, especially in the great terroirs. Starting in Pomerol, Lafleur is very clearly the wine of the vintage, in either banks. The 2017 was monumental from barrel, but it is even better from bottle. It is closely followed by L’Eglise Clinet, Vieux Château Certan, Lafleur-Petrus, Petrus, L'Évangile, La Conseillante and others, all of which I would personally be thrilled to own. The second wines of Lafleur and L’Eglise Clinet, Pensées de Lafleur and La Petite Eglise, are terrific choices for consumers who want to dabble in the vintage without spending the sums required for the big guns. Blason de L'Évangile, with its strong Cabernet Franc imprint, is another compelling second wine.
In Saint-Émilion, Troplong Mondot shows the direction of the estate under its new ownership and management. The 2017 is the first vintage made by new CEO Aymeric de Gironde and consulting winemaker Thomas Duclos, and it is a stunner. Other wines of note include Ausone, Canon, Tertre-Rôteboeuf, Valandraud, Pavie, La Gaffelière, L’If, Figeac and Cheval Blanc, all of which are truly sublime. Saint-Émilion is of course a very large appellation with a lot of diversity and plenty of wines that lurk under the radar. Larcis-Ducasse and Millery are two hidden gems that will appeal to readers who like freshness and energy, while Poesia and Clos Saint-Julien are Saint-Émilions that will delight consumers who seek more overt richness and body. The weak spot on the Right Bank was lower lying vineyards, where frost was especially damaging. Conditions essentially created a natural selection to the point many estates focused only on their very best parcels, but in many cases, especially in satellite appellations, that was just not possible because of the smaller size and vulnerable location of a number of properties.
Baptiste Guinaudeau made the wine of the vintage at Lafleur.
The Left Bank – Highs and Lows
Things are much more variable over on the Left Bank. Late season rains were an issue. As a result, many blends feature Cabernet Sauvignon prominently. Saint-Julien is the clear star of the Left Bank. The wines are simply tremendous. Léoville-Poyferré, Léoville Las-Cases and Léoville Barton are all stellar, while Ducru-Beaucaillou, Branaire-Ducru and Beychevelle aren’t too far behind. In fact, some readers may prefer the opulence of Ducru or Beychevelle over the more structured Léovilles. Langoa-Barton, Gloria and Saint-Pierre will quench the thirst of readers who want to drink well without spending a ton of money.
Outside of Saint-Julien, quality is highly inconsistent. Starting north in Saint-Estèphe, many wines are penalized by late season rains and are therefore lacking in depth or structure. Calon Ségur is an example. Montrose and Cos d’Estournel are notable, though. In Pauillac, Latour, Lafite-Rothschild and Lynch Bages are all strong. I was especially impressed by Lafite, where the wines have an extra flair that is impossible to miss. Other wines, like Pichon-Comtesse and Mouton-Rothschild are austere and hard to read at this stage. Margaux is also mixed. Palmer, Château Margaux and Marquis de Terme are among the stand outs. In Pessac-Léognan, which are often grouped together but probably should be spoken about separately, Smith Haut Lafitte (both white and red), Pape Clement (both white and red) and Les Carmes Haut Brion all confirm my positive impressions from barrel. The entire range at Smith is especially of note, including the second wines that rarely get much mention. Unfortunately, the Domaine de Chevalier (Rouge) is just as awkward as it has always been. Lastly, the 2017 dry whites are very much worth your consideration.
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The bottled 2017 Bordeaux capture all ups and downs that were characteristic of a growing season marked by dramatic frost and uneven weather throughout the rest of the year. Although 2017 is not a great vintage across the board, it is a vintage with many great wines, as readers will discover in these paragraphs and reviews.
Show all the wines (sorted by score)
Producers in this Article
- Alcée
- Angélus
- Arnaud
- Ausone
- Badette
- Balestard La Tonnelle
- Barde-Haut
- Barrabaque
- Barrail Saint-André
- Bastor-Lamontagne
- Beaumont
- Beauregard
- Beau-Séjour Bécot
- Bélair-Monange
- Bel-Air (Pomerol)
- Belgrave
- Belle Coline
- Bellefont-Belcier
- Belle-Vue
- Bellevue Mondotte
- Bellevue (Saint-Émilion)
- Berliquet
- Bernon Bécot
- Bertineau Saint-Vincent
- Beychevelle
- Bibian
- Blaignan
- Bonalgue
- Bourdieu
- Bourgneuf
- Boutisse
- Branaire-Ducru
- Branas Grand Poujeaux
- Brane-Cantenac
- Brondelle
- Cadet-Bon
- Calon Ségur
- Cambon La Pelouse
- Canon
- Canon La Gaffelière
- Canon Pécresse
- Canon Saint-Michel
- Cantegril
- Cantelys
- Cantemerle
- Cantenac Brown
- Cantin
- Capbern
- Cap de Faugères
- Cap de Mourlin
- Capet-Guillier
- Cap Léon Veyrin
- Carbonnieux
- Carlmagnus
- Carteau Côtes Daugay
- Certan de May
- Charmail
- Chasse-Spleen
- Château Beauséjour JDL
- Château Margaux
- Cheval Blanc
- Clément-Pichon
- Clerc-Milon
- Clinet
- Clos Badon
- Clos de Boüard
- Clos de la Vieille Église
- Clos de l’Église
- Clos de l'Oratoire
- Clos de Sarpe
- Clos des Jacobins
- Clos des Lunes
- Clos des Prince
- Clos Dubreuil
- Clos du Clocher
- Clos du Marquis
- Clos Floridène
- Clos Fourtet
- Clos Haut-Peyraguey
- Clos La Madeleine
- Clos Lunelles
- Clos Manou
- Clos Margalaine
- Clos Marsalette
- Clos Puy Arnaud
- Clos René
- Clos Saint-Julien
- Clos Saint-Martin
- Corbin
- Corbin Michotte
- Cos d'Estournel
- Cos Labory
- Côte Montpezat
- Côte Puyblanquet
- Couhins
- Couhins-Lurton
- Couvent des Jacobins
- Crabitey
- Croix de Labrie
- Croizet-Bages
- d'Agassac
- d'Aiguilhe
- Dalem
- d'Arcins
- d'Armailhac
- Daugay
- de Candale
- de Carles
- de Cérons
- de Chambrun
- de Courteillac
- de Cruzeau
- de Ferrand
- de France
- de Francs
- de la Huste
- de La Rivière
- de Malleret
- de Millery
- de Pez
- de Pressac
- de Reignac
- de Rochemorin
- de Rouillac
- des Laurets
- Desmirail
- Destieux
- de Viaud
- Deyrem Valentin
- d'Hanteillan
- d'Issan
- Doisy-Daëne
- Doisy-Védrines
- Domaine de Chevalier
- Domaine de L'A
- Domaine de L'Aurage
- Domaine des Cambes
- Domaine des Sabines
- Domaine du Bouscat
- du Bois Chantant
- Dubois-Grimon
- du Cartillon
- Ducluzeau
- Ducru-Beaucaillou
- du Gazin
- Duhart-Milon
- du Mont
- du Parc
- Durfort-Vivens
- du Tertre
- Dutruch Grand Poujeaux
- Edmus
- Enclos Tourmaline
- Fayat
- Ferrière
- Feytit-Clinet
- Figeac
- Fombrauge
- Fonbadet
- Fonplégade
- Fontenil
- Fourcas-Borie
- Franc-Mayne
- Gaby
- Gazin
- Gazin Rocquencourt
- Gigault
- Girolate
- Giscours
- Gloria
- Godeau
- Gracia
- Grand Mayne
- Grand-Pontet
- Grand-Puy Ducasse
- Grand-Puy-Lacoste
- Grand Village (Lafleur)
- Greysac
- Guadet
- Guiraud
- Haura
- Haut-Bacalan
- Haut-Bages Libéral
- Haut-Bailly
- Haut-Batailley
- Haut-Bergeron
- Haut-Breton Larigaudière
- Haut-Brion
- Haut-Brisson
- Haut-Carles
- Haut-Condissas
- Haut-Lagrange
- Haut Mallet
- Haut-Marbuzet
- Haut Nouchet
- Haut-Rocher
- Haut-Sarpe
- Haut-Surget
- Haut Veyrac
- Hervé-Laroque
- Hosanna
- Hostens-Picant
- JCP Maltus
- JCP Maltus - Laforge
- JCP Maltus - Le Carré
- JCP Maltus - Le Dôme
- JCP Maltus - Les Astéries
- JCP Maltus - Pontet Labrie
- JCP Maltus - Teyssier
- JCP Maltus - Vieux Château Mazerat
- Jean Faux
- Joanin Bécot
- Labégorce
- La Cabanne
- La Chénade
- La Clémence
- La Clotte
- La Commanderie (Pomerol)
- La Conseillante
- Lacoste-Borie
- La Croix de Gay
- La Croix Lartigue
- La Croix Younan
- La Croizille
- La Dauphine
- La Dominique
- Lafaurie-Peyraguey
- Lafite-Rothschild
- Lafitte-Carcasset
- Lafleur
- La Fleur d'Arthus
- La Fleur de Gay
- Lafleur-Gazin
- La Fleur-Pétrus
- Lafon-Rochet
- Lafont-Fourcat
- La Fortune
- La France Delhomme
- La Gaffelière
- La Garde
- La Grave
- La Grave Figeac
- La Gurgue
- La Haye
- Lajarre
- La Lagune
- Lalande-Borie
- La Louvière
- La Marzelle
- La Mission Haut-Brion
- La Mondotte
- Lamothe-Bergeron
- Lanessan
- Langoa-Barton
- La Prade
- Larcis Ducasse
- Laroque
- Larose Perganson
- La Rose Perrière
- La Rousselle
- Larrivaux
- Larrivet Haut-Brion
- Lascombes
- La Serre
- Latour
- Latour à Pomerol
- La Tour Blanche
- La Tour Carnet
- La Tour de Bessan
- La Tour de Mons
- La Tour Figeac
- Latour-Martillac
- Laurence
- Lavergne Dulong
- La Vieille Cure
- La Violette
- La Voûte
- Le Bon Pasteur
- Le Boscq
- Le Chemin
- Le Clos du Beau-Père
- Le Coteau
- Le Crock
- Lécuyer
- Le Doyenné
- Le Gay
- L'Eglise-Clinet
- Le Moulin
- Léoville Barton
- Léoville Las Cases
- Léoville-Poyferré
- Le Pape
- Le Pin
- Le Pin Beausoleil
- Leroy-Beauval
- Les Carmes Haut-Brion
- Les Cruzelles
- Les Grandes Murailles
- Les Grands Chênes
- Les Gravières
- Lespault-Martillac
- Les Religieuses
- Lestage-Simon
- Les Trois Croix
- Le Tours de Laroque
- L'Évangile
- L'If
- Lilian Ladouys
- Liversan
- Louis
- Lucas
- Lucia
- Lynch-Bages
- Lynsolence
- Magrez-Fombrauge
- Maison Blanche
- Malartic-Lagravière
- Malescasse
- Malescot St. Exupéry
- Marjosse
- Marojallia
- Marquis d'Alesme
- Marquis de Terme
- Maucaillou
- Mauvais Garçon (aka Bad Boy)
- Mauvesin Barton
- Mauvinon
- Mayne Lalande
- Mazeyres
- Meyney
- Milens
- Monbousquet
- Moncets
- Monregard La Croix
- Montlabert
- Montlandrie
- Mont-Pérat
- Montrose
- Montviel
- Moulin à Vent
- Moulin du Cadet
- Moulin Haut-Laroque
- Moulin Pey-Labrie
- Moulin Riche
- Moulin Saint-Georges
- Mouton-Rothschild
- Nénin
- Olivier
- Ormes de Pez
- Palmer
- Pape Clément
- Patache d'Aux
- Pauillac par Pascale Peyronie
- Paveil de Luze
- Pavie
- Pavie Decesse
- Pavie-Macquin
- Péby Faugères
- Pédesclaux
- Penin
- Petit Bocq
- Petit Faurie de Soutard
- Petit Val
- Petit-Village
- Petrus
- Peyfaures
- Pey La Tour
- Peyredon Lagravette
- Phélan Ségur
- Pibran
- Pichon Baron
- Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
- Pierre 1er (formerly La Croix Figeac)
- Pierre de Lune
- Pilet
- Plain-Point
- Plince
- Plincette
- Poesia
- Pontet-Canet
- Potensac
- Poujeaux
- Preuillac
- Prieuré de Blaignan
- Prieuré-Lichine
- Prieuré Sainte-Anne
- Puy-Bardens
- Quinault L'Enclos
- Quintus
- Rauzan Gassies
- Rauzan-Ségla
- Raymond-Lafon
- Reclos de La Couronne
- Renon
- Reynon
- Richelieu
- Rieussec
- Ripeau
- Roc de Cambes
- Rochebelle
- Rollan de By
- Rolland-Maillet
- Rol Valentin
- Roquevieille
- Roudier
- Rouget
- Roylland
- Saintayme
- Sainte-Marie
- Saint-Georges (Côte Pavie)
- Saint-Paul
- Saint-Pierre de Corbian
- Saint-Pierre (Pomerol)
- Saint-Pierre (Saint-Julien)
- Sanctus
- Sansonnet
- Senilhac
- Sérilhan
- Sigalas-Rabaud
- Siran
- Smith Haut Lafitte
- Sociando-Mallet
- Soutard
- Soutard-Cadet
- St. Georges
- Subilaux
- Suduiraut
- Taillefer
- Talbot
- Tauzinat L'Hermitage
- Tayac
- Tertre-Rôteboeuf
- Tessendey
- Thénac
- Toumalin
- Tour Baladoz
- Tour des Termes
- Tour Maillet (Lagardère)
- Tour Prignac
- Tour Saint Christophe
- Tour Saint-Fort
- Tour Séran
- Tronquoy-Lalande
- Troplong Mondot
- Trotanoy
- Trotte Vieille
- Valandraud
- Veyry
- Vieux Château Certan
- Vieux Château Palon
- Villars
- Villemaurine
- Vrai Canon Bouché
- Vray Croix de Gay
- Yon-Figeac
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- Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 2012 Château Latour (Apr 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1931 d’Yquem (Mar 2020)
- In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1949 Château Figeac (Feb 2020)
- Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1924 Château Filhot (Jan 2020)
2019
- Cellar Favorite: 1939 & 1950 Cheval Blanc (Dec 2019)
- Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 La Tour Haut-Brion (Nov 2019)
- The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)
- A Century - Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)
- Remembering Jean-Bernard Delmas (Oct 2019)
- The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)
- The Other Side of Bordeaux (Sep 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1947 Carbonnieux Blanc (Sep 2019)
- A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)
- Songs Full of Light - Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1906-2018 (Aug 2019)
- Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1904 & 1948 Langoa-Barton (Aug 2019)
- Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Jul 2019)
- Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)
- "G" Acte 1 to 8 (Jul 2019)
- Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 Gallais Bellevue (Jun 2019)
- Finding Filhot: Filhot 1935-2015 (May 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1934 Cheval Blanc (May 2019)
- Bordeaux 2018: Back in Black (Apr 2019)
- The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2019 New Releases (Apr 2019)
- An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone (Apr 2019)
- Setting Sail - Malartic-Lagravière 1916 - 2013 (Apr 2019)
- What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)
- A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)
- Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015 (March 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1869, 1879 & 1893 d’Yquem (March 2019)
- Cellar Favorites: 1953 & 1975 l’Angélus (Feb 2019)
- Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)
- The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 2005 Larcis Ducasse (Jan 2019)
- 2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)
- Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)
- Cellar Favorites: Coutet Cuvée Madame (Jan 2019)
2018
- Cellar Favorites: 1945, 1966 & 1982 Gruaud Larose (Dec 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 Château de Fieuzal Rouge (Dec 2018)
- Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1956 Château Léoville Barton (Oct 2018)
- Where Value Lies: First Look At 2016 Bordeaux (Oct 2018)
- Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)
- Sharing Alike: Petrus 1947 - 2015 (Sep 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1906 Château d’Arche Crème de Tête (Aug 2018)
- Aiming High: Haut-Condissas 1997–2015 (Aug 2018)
- The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1900 Château Margaux Deuxième Vin (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)
- Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)
- In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Favorites: Laville Haut-Brion (Jul 2018)
- Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1955 Château Latour (Jun 2018)
- Last Man Standing: Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligre (May 2018)
- A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)
- Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)
- 2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter (May 2018)
- 2017 Bordeaux : Au cœur de l'affaire (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux 2017 (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux Left Bank 2017 (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux Right Bank 2017 (May 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1947 Cos d’Estournel (Apr 2018)
- Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 2006 Tertre Rôteboeuf (Apr 2018)
- A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1973 Pétrus (Apr 2018)
- Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: Latest Releases (Apr 2018)
- Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)
- Here We Go Again: Value Bordeaux 2015 (Mar 2018)
- Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Troplong Mondot (Mar 2018)
- 2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story... (Feb 2018)
- The Magician’s Fool: 1950s Bordeaux (Feb 2018)
- Juxtapose With You: Pétrus, Lafleur & Le Pin (Feb 2018)
- 2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)
2017
- Remembering Bob Wilmers (Dec 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 Smith Haut Lafitte (Dec 2017)
- Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2017 (Nov 2017)
- Remembering Patrick Maroteaux (Nov 2017)
- Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)
- Cellar Favorites: Château Latour – 2017 Library Releases (May 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1983 Château Gruaud-Larose (May 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1986 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey (May 2017)
- 2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)
- 2016 Bordeaux: 30 Top Values (Apr 2017)
- Larcis Ducasse Retrospective: 1945-2014 (Mar 2017)
- 2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)
2016
2015
- 2005 Bordeaux with Tanzer & Galloni (Nov 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (May 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Margaux (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux – Les Découvertes: Under the Radar Gems and Sleepers (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux – Vintage Highlights (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over (Apr 2015)
- Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)
2014
- Cristal and Icons from Piedmont & Bordeaux (Oct 2014)
- 2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)
- Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)
- 2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: L’Univerre, Bordeaux (Apr 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Pavie Macquin (Mar 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)
2013
2012
- 2011 Bordeaux: Sauternes (Aug 2012)
- 2011 Bordeaux: Dry Whites (Aug 2012)
- The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)
- The Bordeaux Effect (Jun 2012)
- Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)
- 1982 Bordeaux at Age 30 (May 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau du Tertre (Jan 2012)
2011
2010
2002