2019 Bordeaux: A Long, Strange Trip
BY ANTONIO GALLONI |
Left Bank: Saint-Estèphe | Pauillac | Saint-Julien | Margaux | Médoc | Pessac-Léognan | Graves | Bordeaux Supérieur | Satellites
Right Bank: Pomerol | Saint-Émilion | Sauternes | Satellites
“You must really like your wine,” the FedEx delivery person said as he dropped off yet another stack of boxes shipped from Bordeaux. The global lockdown that began in March ended any hopes of en primeur tastings in the spring. After weeks of indecision, the Bordelais finally moved ahead with a summer en primeur campaign, setting in motion a flurry of shipments across the ocean and a series of equally fast releases. Do the 2019s live up to the early hype?
Tasting a range of 2019 barrel samples at home provided an opportunity to revisit wines over time, something that is not possible in Bordeaux.
Is 2019 Truly A Great Vintage?
It’s the million-dollar question, I know. There is no doubt 2019 is an outstanding vintage, clearly an important vintage. What stands out most about the finest 2019s is their exceptional balance. Ripeness is high, but not exaggeratedly so. Tannins are also elevated, but there is virtually no sensation of tannin in so many wines, an example of where analysis based on perception can vary significantly from what is written on a lab report. The 2019s are also, in many cases, remarkably fresh, which is hard to believe given the intense heat and drought of the summer. I tasted phenomenal wines in every appellation, although there are some places that appear to have done exceptionally well, such as the north of Pauillac and into Saint-Estèphe on the Left Bank.
In tasting, the 2019s combine the textural creaminess of the 2009s with the vibrancy of the 2010s and the slightly linear construction of the 2014s. With a few exceptions, these are not huge, bombastic wines. Although the 2019s share some attributes with 2009 and 2010, they are much more finessed wines built on persistence and length more than opulence. This is partly the vintage speaking, but also a question of style. Just ten years ago, we were still living in the era of hyper-extracted wines. Today’s mindset is totally different. That is obvious now and it will become even clearer as time passes.
In my view, a truly great vintage has to have something more than just high quality and consistency across the board. And that is the visceral thrill factor. Of course, that is hard to quantify, but it exists. One of the questions I get often from readers is: What is the difference between a 98, 99 or 100-point wine? Well, for starters, I think there are differences between those ratings. All wines are not 99-100. The value of a scoring system should be precisely to define those gradations.
Of course, one of the challenges in evaluating 2019 as a vintage is that a number of top châteaux did not submit samples. Perhaps those wines will cause me to change my opinion. They will certainly make an accurate comparison with other recent vintages both possible and meaningful. But for me, today, 2019 is a superb vintage that falls just short of being truly epic. I think of some of the truly monumental young Bordeaux I have tasted in recent years, wines like the 2015 Canon, 2016 Pichon-Comtesse, 2016 Vieux Château Certan and others. And I ask: Are there any wines in 2019 that made me feel the same way? The answer at this moment is No. I have to qualify that because there is no real way to know if and how transportation altered wines, even just a bit. That is simply the way it is at this stage.
Tasting 2019 Bordeaux Barrel Samples During a Global Pandemic
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“You must really like your wine,” the FedEx delivery person said as he dropped off yet another stack of boxes shipped from Bordeaux. The global lockdown that began in March ended any hopes of en primeur tastings in the spring. After weeks of indecision, the Bordelais finally moved ahead with a summer en primeur campaign, setting in motion a flurry of shipments across the ocean and a series of equally fast releases. Do the 2019s live up to the early hype?
Show all the wines (sorted by score)
Producers in this Article
- Adaugusta
- A.D. Francos
- Alcée
- Ampélia
- Angélus
- Angludet
- Arnauld
- Auguste
- Badette
- Balestard La Tonnelle
- Barbe Blanche
- Barde-Haut
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- Bernon Bécot
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- Bolaire
- Bonalgue
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- Branaire-Ducru
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- Brondelle
- Broustet
- Cadet-Bon
- Calicem
- Calon Ségur
- Canon-Chaigneau
- Canon La Gaffelière
- Canon Saint-Michel
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- Cantemerle
- Cantenac Brown
- Cantin
- Capbern
- Cap de Faugères
- Cap de Mourlin
- Capet-Guillier
- Cap Léon Veyrin
- Carbonnieux
- Carlmagnus
- Carteau Côtes Daugay
- Certan de May
- Chantecaille
- Chantegrive
- Charmail
- Chasse-Spleen
- Château Beauséjour JDL
- Château Margaux
- Chauvin
- Cheval Noir
- Citran
- Clarisse
- Clarke
- Claud-Bellevue
- Clément-Pichon
- Clerc-Milon
- Clinet
- Clos 126
- Clos 56
- Clos Badon
- Clos Beauregard
- Clos Bertineau
- Clos de Boüard
- Clos de la Cure
- Clos de la Vieille Église
- Clos de l’Église
- Clos de l'Oratoire
- Clos de Sarpe
- Clos des Jacobins
- Clos des Lunes
- Clos des Prince
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- Clos du Clocher
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- Clos du Roy
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- Clos Fourtet
- Clos Haut-Peyraguey
- Clos Junet
- Clos Lardière
- Clos Les Grandes Versannes
- Clos Lunelles
- Clos Margalaine
- Clos Marsalette
- Clos Puy Arnaud
- Clos René
- Clos Romanile
- Clos Saint-Julien
- Clos Saint-Martin
- Clos Vieux Taillefer
- Corbin
- Cos d'Estournel
- Cos Labory
- Côte de Baleau
- Côte Montpezat
- Coufran
- Couhins
- Couhins-Lurton
- Courlat
- Coutet
- Couvent des Jacobins
- Crabitey
- Croix Cardinale
- Croix de Bertinat
- Croix de Labrie
- Curton La Perrière
- d'Agassac
- d'Aiguilhe
- d'Aiguilhe Querre
- Dalem
- d'Arce
- d'Armailhac
- Dassault
- Dauzac
- de By
- de Camensac
- de Candale
- de Carles
- de Cérons
- de Chambrun
- de Courteillac
- de Cruzeau
- de Fargues
- de Ferrand
- de Fieuzal
- de France
- de Francs
- de Gironville
- de La Cour d'Argent
- de La Grave
- de la Huste
- de Lamarque
- de La Rivière
- de Lussac
- de Malle
- de Malleret
- de Millery
- de Montaigne
- de Pez
- de Pressac
- de Rochemorin
- de Rouillac
- de Saint-Pey
- des Laurets
- des Milles Anges
- Desmirail
- Destieux
- de Tabuteau
- de Valois
- de Viaud
- Deyrem Valentin
- d'Hanteillan
- d'Issan
- Doisy-Daëne
- Doisy-Védrines
- Domaine de Chevalier
- Domaine de L'A
- Domaine de la Solitude
- Domaine de L'Aurage
- Domaine des Cambes
- Domaine des Sabines
- Domaine du Bouscat
- Domaine Simon Blanchard
- du Bois Chantant
- Dubois-Grimon
- du Cartillon
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- du Glana
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- du Mont
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- du Parc
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- du Tertre
- Dutruch Grand Poujeaux
- Edmus
- Enclos de Viaud
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- Escot
- Faizeau
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- Feytit-Clinet
- Figeac
- Fleur Cardinale
- Fleur Haut Gaussens
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- Fontenil
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- Gazin
- Gigault
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- Godeau
- Gouprie
- Gracia
- Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac
- Grand Corbin
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- Grand Mayne
- Grand-Pontet
- Grand-Puy Ducasse
- Grangey
- Greysac
- Grivière
- Guibot
- Guillot Clauzel
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- Guiteronde
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- Haut-Bacalan
- Haut-Bages Libéral
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- Haut-Batailley
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- Haut-Bergey
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- Haut-Brion
- Haut-Brisson
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- Haut-Maillet
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- Haut-Sarpe
- Haut-Surget
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- Hostens-Picant
- Hubert de Boüard
- JCP Maltus
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- JCP Maltus - Le Carré
- JCP Maltus - Le Dôme
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- Jean Voisin
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- La Bastienne
- Labégorce
- La Brande
- La Cabanne
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- La Chandellière
- La Chénade
- La Clare
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- Petit Fombrauge
- Petit Gravet Aîné
- Petit-Village
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- Pey La Tour
- Peyredon Lagravette
- Phélan Ségur
- Pibran
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- Picque Caillou
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- Pierre 1er (formerly La Croix Figeac)
- Pierre de Lune
- Plain-Point
- Plincette
- Poesia
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- Pontet-Canet
- Potensac
- Poujeaux
- Prieuré-Lichine
- Prieuré Marquet
- Puygueraud
- Quintus
- Rahoul
- Ramafort
- Rauzan Gassies
- Raymond-Lafon
- Rayne-Vigneau
- Réaut
- Reclos de La Couronne
- Reignac
- Renon
- Reynon
- Ripeau
- Roc de Bécot
- Roc de Cambes
- Rochebelle
- Rocher Gardat
- Rocheyron
- Rocquetaillade La Grange
- Rollan de By
- Rolland-Maillet
- Rol Valentin
- Roquevieille
- Roudier
- Rouget
- Roylland
- Rubis
- Saintayme
- Sainte-Barbe
- Sainte-Marie
- Saint-Georges (Côte Pavie)
- Saint-Paul
- Saint-Pierre de Corbian
- Saint-Pierre (Pomerol)
- Saint-Pierre (Saint-Julien)
- Sanctus
- Sansonnet
- Seguin
- Sergant
- Sérilhan
- Sigalas-Rabaud
- Siran
- Smith Haut Lafitte
- Soutard
- Soutard-Cadet
- St. Georges
- Suau
- Suduiraut
- Taillefer
- Talbot
- Tauzinat L'Hermitage
- Tertre-Rôteboeuf
- Teyssier (Montagne-Saint-Émilion)
- Thénac
- Toumalin
- Tour Bayard
- Tour de Capet
- Tour de Pez
- Tour des Termes
- Tour Maillet (Lagardère)
- Tournefeuille
- Tour Saint Christophe
- Tour Séran
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- Troplong Mondot
- Trotanoy
- Trotte Vieille
- Valandraud
- Veyry
- Vieille Dynastie
- Vieux Château Certan
- Vieux Château des Rochers
- Vieux Château Palon
- Vieux Maillet
- Villa Bel-Air
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- The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 1928 Calon-Ségur (Feb 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 1967 Château d’Yquem Sauternes Premier Grand Cru (Jan 2021)
- Choose Wisely: Château Sérilhan 2008–2017 (Jan 2021)
2020
- Lagrange 1959-2015 (Dec 2020)
- Saturday Morning: Larcis Ducasse 1945-2017 (Oct 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1919 Montrose (Sep 2020)
- 2018 Château d'Yquem (Sep 2020)
- Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)
- The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)
- Delivering Where It Counts: Meyney 1971–2017 (Jul 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 2010 Haut-Bailly (Jun 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 2011 Le Pin (Jun 2020)
- Uncertain Smile: Bordeaux 2019 (Jun 2020)
- Château Siran 1918-2008 (Jun 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1947 Château Trotanoy (Jun 2020)
- Hopes and Dreams: Canon Chaigneau 1998-2019 (May 2020)
- Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)
- Remember, Remember: 1945 Bordeaux (May 2020)
- No Relation: Clos Saint-Martin 1964-2017 (Apr 2020)
- Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 2012 Château Latour (Apr 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1931 d’Yquem (Mar 2020)
- In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)
- 2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1949 Château Figeac (Feb 2020)
- Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1924 Château Filhot (Jan 2020)
2019
- Cellar Favorite: 1939 & 1950 Cheval Blanc (Dec 2019)
- Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 La Tour Haut-Brion (Nov 2019)
- The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)
- A Century - Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)
- Remembering Jean-Bernard Delmas (Oct 2019)
- The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)
- The Other Side of Bordeaux (Sep 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1947 Carbonnieux Blanc (Sep 2019)
- A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)
- Songs Full of Light - Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1906-2018 (Aug 2019)
- Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1904 & 1948 Langoa-Barton (Aug 2019)
- Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Jul 2019)
- Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)
- "G" Acte 1 to 8 (Jul 2019)
- Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 Gallais Bellevue (Jun 2019)
- Finding Filhot: Filhot 1935-2015 (May 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1934 Cheval Blanc (May 2019)
- Bordeaux 2018: Back in Black (Apr 2019)
- The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2019 New Releases (Apr 2019)
- An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone (Apr 2019)
- Setting Sail - Malartic-Lagravière 1916 - 2013 (Apr 2019)
- What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)
- A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)
- Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015 (March 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1869, 1879 & 1893 d’Yquem (March 2019)
- Cellar Favorites: 1953 & 1975 l’Angélus (Feb 2019)
- Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)
- The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 2005 Larcis Ducasse (Jan 2019)
- 2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)
- Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)
- Cellar Favorites: Coutet Cuvée Madame (Jan 2019)
2018
- Cellar Favorites: 1945, 1966 & 1982 Gruaud Larose (Dec 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 Château de Fieuzal Rouge (Dec 2018)
- Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1956 Château Léoville Barton (Oct 2018)
- Where Value Lies: First Look At 2016 Bordeaux (Oct 2018)
- Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)
- Sharing Alike: Petrus 1947 - 2015 (Sep 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1906 Château d’Arche Crème de Tête (Aug 2018)
- Aiming High: Haut-Condissas 1997–2015 (Aug 2018)
- The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1900 Château Margaux Deuxième Vin (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)
- Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)
- In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Favorites: Laville Haut-Brion (Jul 2018)
- Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1955 Château Latour (Jun 2018)
- Last Man Standing: Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligre (May 2018)
- A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)
- Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)
- 2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter (May 2018)
- 2017 Bordeaux : Au cœur de l'affaire (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux 2017 (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux Left Bank 2017 (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux Right Bank 2017 (May 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1947 Cos d’Estournel (Apr 2018)
- Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 2006 Tertre Rôteboeuf (Apr 2018)
- A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1973 Pétrus (Apr 2018)
- Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: Latest Releases (Apr 2018)
- Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)
- Here We Go Again: Value Bordeaux 2015 (Mar 2018)
- Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Troplong Mondot (Mar 2018)
- 2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story... (Feb 2018)
- The Magician’s Fool: 1950s Bordeaux (Feb 2018)
- Juxtapose With You: Pétrus, Lafleur & Le Pin (Feb 2018)
- 2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)
2017
- Remembering Bob Wilmers (Dec 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 Smith Haut Lafitte (Dec 2017)
- Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2017 (Nov 2017)
- Remembering Patrick Maroteaux (Nov 2017)
- Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)
- Cellar Favorites: Château Latour – 2017 Library Releases (May 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1983 Château Gruaud-Larose (May 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1986 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey (May 2017)
- 2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)
- 2016 Bordeaux: 30 Top Values (Apr 2017)
- Larcis Ducasse Retrospective: 1945-2014 (Mar 2017)
- 2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)
2016
2015
- 2005 Bordeaux with Tanzer & Galloni (Nov 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (May 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Margaux (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux – Les Découvertes: Under the Radar Gems and Sleepers (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux – Vintage Highlights (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over (Apr 2015)
- Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)
2014
- Cristal and Icons from Piedmont & Bordeaux (Oct 2014)
- 2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)
- Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)
- 2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: L’Univerre, Bordeaux (Apr 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Pavie Macquin (Mar 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)
2013
2012
- 2011 Bordeaux: Sauternes (Aug 2012)
- 2011 Bordeaux: Dry Whites (Aug 2012)
- The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)
- The Bordeaux Effect (Jun 2012)
- Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)
- 1982 Bordeaux at Age 30 (May 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau du Tertre (Jan 2012)
2011
2010
2002