Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir

Higher than normal rainfall in the Willamette Valley throughout the winter of ‘05/’06 led into a 2006 season that started a week or two later than average, with bud break occurring in late April. A warm May and June followed, with good rainfall that screeched to a halt once summer arrived. July and August were very dry and warm, with no real precipitation, but water stored up from the winter and spring rains helped to maintain vine health and vigor. According to Chehalem’s Harry Peterson-Nedry, 2006 had almost identical cumulative degree days as 2003, the hottest year on record. There was a danger of vines shutting down but that fear was allayed when moderate rainfall occurred in mid-September, putting the vines back on course. As consumers ponder how long they want to cellar their 2006s, they might consider the warmth of the year. Pinot noirs from hot vintages typically drink better in their youth than they do five to eight years down the road as freshness of fruit is lost and stewy or roasted character can emerge in its place. Yields in 2006 were also much higher than average—in fact, according to Luisa Ponzi, it was “one of the largest crops ever.” Green harvesting was a necessity due to high vigor, many growers told me, and large clusters of large grapes were the rule.