Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume and Muscadet

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Lovers of brisk, nervy, dry white wines who feel forced out of their traditional hunting grounds by the growing number of outsized, alarmingly sweet bottlings can, at least for now, find plenty of options in the eastern Loire Valley’s Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé—and of course in the bracing Muscadets made at the opposite end of the Loire, on the Atlantic Coast.

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