Focus on California's Central Coast

At the same time, however, I am astounded to see rave reviews for wines that are clearly flawed (oxidative, volatile, cooked), out of balance (hugely alcoholic, crushed by unsubtle new oak, dangerously low in acidity) or just plain over the top. (Of course, it goes without saying that my top may be lower than your top.) Ninety-plus scores for wines that are out of whack has a way of cheapening the fine work being done by Southern California's best growers and winemakers (names like Tablas Creek Vineyard, Alban Vineyards, Saxum Vineyards and Sine Qua Non come to mind here).

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With new Central Coast producers emerging every year with high-quality wines, especially in the southern half of the region stretching from Santa Barbara County northward to Paso Robles, this part of California is a growing source of full-flavored and user-friendly wines, most of the best of them red