Cool Wines for Dog Days

In recent weeks, I've been swirling and spitting 2008 Bordeaux and 2006 Brunellos (no complaints, mind you).  On the other hand, here's what I'll be swallowing during the dog days of summer at Chateau Tanzer:  wines that cover just about any warm-weather contingency and rarely break the bank.

Txakoli.  The labels may be written in Martian (actually Basque), but these lightly fizzy, spicy, tangy whites (there's also a scarce rose version and even a few reds) are as thirst-quenching as a gin and tonic after a couple sets of tennis.  Txakoli is addictive as an aperitif or perfect with fresh shellfish.

Unoaked sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley, or pungent alternatives from New Zealand or South Africa.  Racy, citrussy, dry and brisk, often with complicating mineral, floral and herbal nuances.  Great with vegetables (even asparagus and artichokes!), salads or goat cheeses, or with simply prepared fish.

Chablis.  These vibrant wines are so subtle, incisive and minerally you'd swear you weren't drinking chardonnay--and they're way cheaper than their cousins from the Cote d'Or.  Plain village wines from top producers can be terrific values.

Rosé.  Pale-colored versions tend to be dry and racy, even austere, with more subtle minerality than easy fruit.  Use these wines like brisk whites, served chilled as an aperitif or with simple snacks, grilled vegetables or grilled fish in olive oil and light pastas.  Or select more deeply colored, suppler examples from warmer regions (especially Spain or the New World).  With their distinct red fruit notes they can take the place of light reds, alongside fried and grilled chicken or richer fish dishes.

Beaujolais.  The fleshy, ripe and wildly popular 2009s have mostly been snapped up by now, but the vibrant, intensely fruity 2010s offer a more classic Beaujolais experience for purists.  Drink them chilled on their own, or with grilled burgers and sausages.

Southern French reds sans pretention.  These aggressively priced, immediately accessible wines, especially when they're heavily based on grenache, cinsault and carignane, are downright gulpable in the warm months when they're lightly chilled (see Beaujolais above).  Serve them with lamb or steak on the barbie.

Light, young pinot noir.  Whether from our own West Coast, New Zealand or Burgundy, young, sappy pinot noir is the universal solvent at the dinner table.  Like a gift check at graduation, pinot is never inappropriate.