New Zealand Sauvignon and Pinot

Similarly, the U.S. market’s thirst for New Zealand sauvignon blanc continues unabated. Sauvignon blanc accounted for nearly 85% of the volume of New Zealand wine shipped here during the year that ended in June—up significantly from 78% a year earlier—while pinot noir represented another 8%. (Chardonnay was next, at 3.4%.) Surprisingly, New Zealand red wine other than pinot noir accounted for just 1% of the total. With all due respect to the mostly North Island producers who are now managing consistently to make ripe, user-friendly wines from red Bordeaux varieties, these wines continue to be a tough sell in the U.S. market, as drinkers here have far too many less expensive choices in this category and continue to gravitate toward juicier reds like pinot noir.

Good crisp sauvignon in the $15 to $20 range is another matter. And with a growing number of wine drinkers seeking out juicy pinot noirs with early appeal, New Zealand’s growing portfolio of outstanding examples offers a compelling option, even if it’s becoming increasingly difficult to find excellent wines in the $30 range. The strong New Zealand dollar has been an obstacle to sales, and yet I saw more New Zealand pinots from more wineries this year than ever before.

That’s not to say that all New Zealand pinots and sauvignons merit the active interest of consumers. Although the average level of quality of these wines is higher than ever, a sizable percentage of the sauvignon blancs I tasted in recent months lack concentration and flavor authority, while too many pinots show limited complexity, palate presence and persistence. Young vines are often responsible for dilute wines, and some of New Zealand’s producers may be overcropping to satisfy growing demand for their wines. While I love the style of New Zealand’s pinots and sauvignons, only the best of them have the texture, concentration, complexity and length to merit outstanding ratings.