Montepulciano, Carmignano and Montecucco: New Releases

BY ERIC GUIDO | DECEMBER 14, 2021

When looking at Tuscany, we think of Chianti Classico and Montalcino before all else. We place them on a pedestal, in a hierarchy above all others, which, admittedly, are well-deserved reputations. However, in doing so, the risk is looking past the pleasures that can be found in  the winemaking areas throughout Tuscany that are less well known. In many cases, these regions have long and rich vinous histories; yet they stumbled at some point, whether it was the mistake of not paying enough attention to current tastes, becoming enamored with the trappings of internationally-styled wines, or simply not understanding that, outside of tourism, a wine region needs marketing to get their bottles onto the tables of the end consumer. While this train of thought may take away some of the romance behind wine, what it shows us is that there are still many exciting regions, producers and wines just waiting to be discovered. As for the romance, these regions provide that too, with stories of generations past that can rival Chianti Classico and Montalcino. While this article is mostly focused on digging deeply into the wines of Montepulciano, Carmignano and Montecucco, it includes wines from neighboring appellations as well. 

Let’s consider Tuscany as a whole, placing Chianti Classico as a not-so-perfect center, yet useful for this dicussion. To the north, we have the Apennine Mountains, which run east and then south along Tuscany’s borders, separating it from Emilia-Romagna and Le Marche as we near the center of the region. It’s here in the north, just west of Florence, that we find Carmignano, which overlaps with the Chianti-producing region of Montalbano. To give an idea of how different this area is from the others, moving clockwise, we need to traverse around all of Chianti Rufina, Chianti Classico and south of Siena before we reach the fortified hilltop town of Montepulciano, close to the border of Umbria. We must then continue southeast, down and around Montalcino, past Monte Amiata, and toward the Maremma and the Adriatic Sea to find ourselves in Montecucco. While each of these places are geographically very different, as are the cultures, the people, and the wines they produce, there is one common thread that exists between them all, and it’s that Sangiovese reigns supreme.

Looking out across Montepulciano from the center of the city.

The Pride of Montepulciano

If there’s one thing you understand very quickly when visiting Montepulciano, it’s the pride of its people: their pride in their history, their city and of course, their wine. It’s a pride that’s been well earned over the course of centuries. This is a fortified hilltop city that has remained structurally unchanged since 1580. Simply traverse the streets in the very early morning, and you’ll be transported back in time. During a walk to a local cafe along the outer walls, down the secluded alleys, inlaid stairwells and cobblestone streets, you could lose yourself as if in some medieval romance or tragedy. Dining in one of its many trattorias along the walls and looking out from their iron-gated balconies provides views of the Tuscan landscape that gives a new understanding of why these castle-towns were built high up on the hills. That countryside with its rolling hills is covered with vines surrounding cascine, patched together with fields of local produce. It’s a site to see, and there’s very little wonder as to why they choose the name “Nobile” when describing their wine. 

The recorded history of wine here goes back nearly 2000 years. In the more recent past, even Thomas Jefferson was a repeat buyer of the Sangiovese of Montepulciano. However, it was only within the last 100 years that the name “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano'' was documented, and only in the last 60 years that its territory was fully established, and a Consorzio was organized. The town itself stands like a monument, with the majority of the growing region’s 1,800 hectares of vines fanning out to the north and east. Its elevations span from 250 to 600 meters as you coast up and down its undulating hillsides. Here, the soils combine sand and clay with compressed lenticular pebbles and fossilized marine sediments, which is an amazing sight to see in the ceilings of an underground cellar over 500 meters above sea level. The climate is strongly influenced by the Orcia and Chiana rivers, as well as the Apennines to one side and Monte Amiata to the other. It’s a truly unique terroir that separates them from their neighbors in Montalcino and the Chianti regions of the north - one which should allow them to compete with the best that Tuscany has to offer; and so, it should come as no surprise that they earned the first official DOCG for a red wine in Italy in 1980.

However, there were two problems. The first was the regulations for blending: only 70% of Sangiovese (known locally as "Prugnolo Gentile") was required in the blend, and the remaining 30% was allowed to be made up of both regional and international grapes. Like the subzones of Chianti, as well as Chianti Classico in those days, winemakers were seduced by the craze of international varieties; but unlike Chianti, the move back toward regional varieties (Canaiolo, Colorino, Ciliegiolo and Mammolo) and increasing the amount of Sangiovese in the blend didn’t happen anywhere near as quickly. It has only recently been officially codified under the new Pieve classification, but more on that later. The second problem was the use, or overuse, of new oak. The traditional way of maturing wine in Montepulciano was in large oak barrels, such as the 115-hectoliter casks in the ancient cellars of the Talosa winery. However, when new barrique became trendy in Tuscany, many of the producers of Montepulciano chose them as their preferred aging vessel, and again, they didn’t see consumer tastes change as quickly as the surrounding regions. And so, it went over the course of decades. The wines of Montepulciano showed tremendous quality and, in many cases, the skills of some highly talented winemakers; however, they lacked typicity and the stamp of terroir. 

Looking at Montepulciano's soils from below ground at Fattoria della Talosa.