Looking Back to Look Forward: Back Vintage Brunello
BY ERIC GUIDO |
While claims regarding ageworthiness made by some of Montalcino’s most famous properties can seem exaggerated, Sangiovese, in the form of Brunello di Montalcino, does have the capacity to mature beautifully. Simply take a look at the wines of the 1970s and 1980s from estates such as Il Poggione, Col d'Orcia, Biondi-Santi, Argiano or Canalicchio di Sopra, to name a few. The fact is if you love Brunello and are only cellaring new vintages, you’re missing out on these mature beauties.
Over time and in a well-kept cellar, the best Brunello soften and gain weight. The tannins start to resolve and residual acids add lift, releasing inner sweetness and an ethereal character that leans more toward dried florals, berries, earth and tobacco. While the 'dark days' of the 1990s saw vast growth in the region along with the introduction of small new oak and winemaking wizardry at some estates, which darkened and muddled the wines, many producers stayed the course and stuck with tradition. The resulting wines are simply glorious. Through the 2000s, Montalcino began to change again, both accepting global warming as an issue and looking to counteract it, but also refocusing on Sangiovese. A number of estates were found to be blending in international varieties to darken and fortify the wines. Nonetheless, this time period created positive change that paved the way for today's winemakers, and ultimately improved the wines on a broad scale.
Il Marroneto's collection of treasured back vintages.
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We buy Brunello for the cellar, to watch it mature into glorious wines befitting of the region’s reputation. However, we seldom talk about these mature beauties in the same manner as we do the wines of Bordeaux or Barolo, which is a shame, because the best of Brunello can and does stand the test of time.
