Carmignano, Montecucco and Tuscany’s Unrivaled
Diversity

BY ERIC GUIDO |&nbsp;MARCH 05, 2024Keeping track of the many
appellations within Tuscany is no small task. New projects begin, while others reinvent
themselves in what feels like a constant exploration and discovery of the
potential of the region’s unique terroirs. Each year, Antonio and I delve
deeply into the most well-known areas and producers, yet it is impossible to
give each region its own focus, hence this combined report.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709649820554-Cabernet+Sauvignon%2C+Cab+France+and+Merlot+in+the+Piaggia+vineyards_copy.jpg">Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in the Piaggia vineyards. 

Carmignano and Montecucco receive a detailed overview in
this article because of a surge in quality and consistency across a number of
producers that are bringing increased visibility to those areas. However, that in no way detracts from producers scattered
throughout Tuscany that are featured in this report, but from regions that are not
specifically addressed in this introduction, such as Valdarno di Sopra, Val di
Chiana, Cortona and Valle d’Orcia. My tastings included wines from both indigenous
and international varieties from all corners of Tuscany, ranging from
Tempranillo in Pisa to varietal Sangiovese on the border of Umbria and
Lazio.&nbsp;

Many of these wines also
represent unparalleled value. This is an opportunity to get in on the ground
floor with many emerging producers who simply don’t have the name
recognition of a well-established DOCG to elevate their global exposure. To the
adventurous lover of Sangiovese, Super Tuscans and everything in between, these
notes are for you.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709649856862-Iron+rich+Galestro+in+the+vineyards+of+Basile_copy.jpg">Iron-rich Galestro in the vineyards of Basile. Carmignano: Bucking Trends Circling back to
Carmignano has long been one of the highlights of my year. It’s incredible to
think that a region so small can make such a big impact. This is a result of quality-minded
producers, led by two long-time icons, Piaggia and Tenuta di Capezzana, who made their mark on the world stage,
and a terroir that allows them all to create a unique style that thumbs its
nose at the trends in Tuscany.&nbsp;

Carmignano excels with blending
Sangiovese and Bordeaux varieties, a practice that most other regions of
Tuscany shrugged off over time, instead pushing to change rules and regulations
toward creating more varietal Sangiovese. I can’t help but feel that the recent
success of Carmignano is deeply rooted in the uniqueness of its blends, which
often sit comfortably with at least 50% Sangiovese, 10-20% Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot or Cabernet Franc and up to 20% Canaiolo. For the most part, producers
settle at an average of 70% Sangiovese, balanced primarily by Cabernet
Sauvignon, a variety with which Carmignano has 500 years of experience. Many
producers will tell you it’s that long history that allowed Cabernet Sauvignon
to adapt to this location, but following the pre-phylloxera epidemic, it wasn’t
until the 1950s that the Contini Bonacossi family of Tenuta di Capezzana reintroduced
the variety and its modern-day success began.

The expansion taking
place in Carmignano is incredible, as producers look to unearth new and
exciting terroirs throughout the region. Just two years ago, the Consorzio
reported 116 total hectares under vine and 11 producers, which has grown to 200
hectares under vine and 13 producers as of today. During my visit to the region
last year, I observed much of this expansion while touring vineyards with
Fabrizio Pratesi and Silvia Vannucci of Piaggia. Both sought to diversify their
current holdings with a mix of various soil types, of which Carmignano has
plenty: from limestone to sandy clay, galestro&nbsp;and layers of primary
rock mixed with quartz. Elevations start surprisingly low in the region, ranging
from 53 to 400 meters, yet still, this is hilly terrain with steep inclines and
varied exposures. It’s also particularly secluded—north of Chianti Classico with
Monte Albano on its western border, which blocks warming air currents from the Tyrrhenian
Sea. While it will be many years before this expansion translates into the
finished wines, I look forward to the emergence of an array of single-vineyard
bottlings, which producers suggest is on the horizon.

For anyone just getting
into Carmignano, look forward to rich, fruit-focused Sangiovese with a solid
core of limestone-infused minerality and a backbone of Cabernet tannins. The
wines age remarkably well; I’ve experienced many fine examples beyond 20 years
old. As a trend, new oak has been on the decline, yet even when used throughout
an individual portfolio, I find the integration to be expertly done. Also of
note, a hidden treasure of the region is Capezzana’s Vin Santo, which ranks
among the top dessert wines I taste each year.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709649893888-The+massive+barrel+aging+cellar+at+Collemassari_copy.jpg">The massive barrel aging cellar at Collemassari. Montecucco: Untapped Potential For the past three
years, I’ve closely followed the wines and overall progress in Montecucco. It’s
a region I find to be very interesting, less for its production as a whole and more
for its untapped potential. Don’t get me wrong—many excellent wines, past and
present, hail from Montecucco. However, to truly realize that potential, there
would need to be more widespread success among the region’s producers, as
opposed to two or three quality leaders that hit it out of the park vintage
after vintage. Montecucco really has a lot going for it, but there are just as
many challenges as well.

First and foremost, it’s
nearly impossible to speak about a uniform terroir within the region.
Montecucco runs from elevations around 500 meters in the extreme northeast to
as low as 50 meters in the southwest. Moreover, in the northeast, vineyards are
planted in volcanic soils leading up the slopes of Mount Amiata. To the
southwest, the region abuts Morellino di Scansano, which lies near the
Tyrrhenian Sea. Considering this, it's easy to see why the wines are so
variable and how they can succeed in either location depending on the desired
style. For consumers seeking ripe, plump Sangiovese with a Mediterranean feel
or juicy, fruit-forward Vermentino (a strength in Montecucco), the lower
elevations are a perfect place to look. The northeast is the area to explore
for profoundly complex and age-worthy wines. These drastic differences create a
lot of consumer confusion.

It should come as no
surprise that the lion’s share of Montecucco’s great wines hails from the
northeast. As in Montalcino, which runs parallel to Montecucco’s northern
border, producers continue to turn to higher elevations to find balance and
complexity. The similarities to southern Montalcino are noticeable as one
skirts the border between the two regions. In the northeast, home to standout
producers such as ColleMassari, Basile and Salustri, Montecucco is defined by
peaks and valleys, hillside vineyards and large outcroppings of thick forest. Red clay, loam and limestone soils
are abundant, along with warm temperatures. The
confluence of air circulating between Mount Amiata and the Tyrrhenian Sea is noticeable,
even on the calmest days. This same circulation helps to bring cool conditions
at night.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709649970693-The+Vineyards+of+Montecucco+looking+out+toward+the+Tuscan+coast_copy.jpg">The Vineyards of Montecucco looking out toward the Tuscan coast. 

For the most part,
producers are betting on the relatively new Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG (as of
2011) to prove the region's potential. This is, without a doubt, their primary
focus, and as a result, it represents the majority of the most successful wines
in this report. During my recent trip, I had the opportunity to taste several back
vintages to get a feel of how well the wines develop over time. Overall, I was
very impressed. One immediate takeaway is the reduction of small-format oak over
the past 20 years, which helps to deliver the purity and classic Sangiovese
structure. Montecucco Sangiovese could very well be the region's claim to fame
as time passes.&nbsp;

Beyond pure Sangiovese,
the traditional Montecucco blend, known as Montecucco Rosso, remains a mixed
bag. Montecucco Rosso is a blend of at least 60% Sangiovese and 40% other red
grape varieties—often Merlot, Ciliegiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon and even
Montepulciano. Typically made in a more approachable style, in some cases, Montecucco
Rosso can also be quite formidable. Unfortunately, the open-ended blending
regulations make it nearly impossible to form generalized observations about
these wines. Producers
to look for include Poggio Trevvalle, Le Pianore and Tenuta L'Impostino.

Montecucco is an
appellation full of promise, yet its potential remains unrealized outside of a
handful of wineries and some new winemakers who are looking to join that small
group. I hope producers can swallow their pride, keep their minds open and look
to the successful estates as exemplars of what’s possible. There will always be
overachievers and those who lag behind. Still, the scales are far off balance.
If Montecucco is ever to prove its worth to the world, there must be a
large-scale quality revolution.&nbsp;

I tasted the wines for
this article in Tuscany during the summer of 2023 and in our New York offices
during the fall of 2023. © 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/terroir-and-determination-vino-nobile-di-montepulciano-feb-2023">Terroir and Determination: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano</a>, Eric Guido, February 2023<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/touring-tuscany-carmignano-montecucco-and-beyond-feb-2023">Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond</a>, Eric Guido, February 2023 <div><div></div></div><div><div><div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/montepulciano-carmignano-and-montecucco-new-releases-dec-2021">Montepulciano, Carmignano and Montecucco: New Releases</a>, Eric Guido, December 2021 </div></div></div>

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