Terroir and Determination: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
BY ERIC GUIDO |
This is a golden age to be a winemaker in Montepulciano. The prestigious terroir and variety (Sangiovese, known as Prugnolo Gentile here), along with a momentum of forward-thinking ideas and a spirit of determination are spreading throughout the entire region, energizing not only the population but the wines themselves.
Nowhere else in Italy can I think of a single region pushing so hard to prove itself in such a uniform manner. This can be seen from the growers, the producers’ Consorzio and even the locals around town. Being in Montepulciano incites feelings of rejuvenation and positive change. Nevertheless, the road has not been easy, nor have all of the challenges been overcome, but what is evident is that the momentum that has been created will continue to push quality levels higher across the board.
Old vines at Avignonesi in the Caprile vineyard.
First, a Lay of the Land
Montepulciano is not your average Tuscan city. Located in the southeast of Tuscany, the fortified hilltop town is a marvel in and of itself. When visiting, I wouldn’t dream of staying anywhere other than within its walls, no matter how tiny the roads, how poor the parking and how crowded the restaurants may be. When in Montepulciano, a visitor is transported to another time entirely. By sunrise, cats run the city, long before the first inhabitant ventures out for a caffelatte. The streets themselves encircle the center of the town, each its fortification and slowly declining in elevation, intersected by steep stone stairwells. Upon first visiting, a traveler finds themself walking in circles until the navigation of the many tiny alley walls and shortcuts becomes apparent. The valleys of Val d’Orcia on one side and the Val di Chiana on the other fill the views from the city walls. And no trip would be complete without a walk down along its walls to the Madonna di San Biagio Sanctuary – just be prepared to walk back up.
Wine is deeply rooted here, not just by the vineyards surrounding Montepulciano, but within the historic city itself. Entering Fattoria della Talosa at its tasting room and shop at the highest elevation (around 600 meters) and descending the winding stairs and tunnels to their 16th-century cellar (at 500 meters) is a telling experience. Some passages, which the winery has slowly excavated, continue to go even deeper, revealing stashes of ancient bottles and small religious altars carved into the walls. A similar experience can be had at the De' Ricci cellars, with cavernous, vaulted ceilings that house their barrels of aging Vino Nobile. These wineries provide a unique perspective into the soils of the region, as the walls and ceilings are lined with sandstone and compressed clay, ingrained with fossilized marine sediments. These historic locations speak to the importance of Montepulciano’s wine through the ages, along with references that have been documented for nearly 700 years. What’s more, when the DOCG classification was created in Italy, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was included with just three others, Brunello, Barolo and Barbaresco.
There was a time when Vino Nobile di Montepulciano would have been lumped into an article of assorted Tuscan villages and wines. The work producers have put into improving their wines is increasingly evident. However, there are still hurdles the region needs to cross.
