Unearthing Tuscan Gems: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond
BY ERIC GUIDO |
Focusing on all of Tuscany in one report is almost impossible without sacrificing the details that make it unique. Unlike some Italian regions, Tuscany cannot be adequately summarized with a single vintage report and generalized terroir assessment. It requires a more nuanced approach.
However, Tuscany is undoubtedly worth the effort. Hunting for some of the greatest Sangiovese-based wines outside the big three—Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Montepulciano—can be extremely rewarding. Moreover, there’s a long list of international varieties that have found an unlikely home, thriving throughout Tuscany’s nooks and crannies. It’s extremely telling that of the nearly 200 wines in this report, 84 are labeled as IGT Toscana, produced outside of either DOC or DOCG rules or boundaries. Many of these wines originate from terroirs that have yet to be fully explored. For instance, the high-elevation slopes of Mount Amiata are a hot spot for new projects. Producers from the surrounding regions of Montalcino and Montecucco eagerly look to this location for future development.
Val d'Orcia, looking toward the town of Montalcino
There are so many diverse terroirs and styles to consider. Sometimes, it’s a new upstart or young aspiring winemaker who’s found a field of old vines to tend. Sometimes, it’s a family that has farmed their land for generations but only recently decided to become serious about their marketing and expanding to a broader audience. These wines can often present exceptional value or give rise to the next big cult producer who hasn’t yet gained the recognition they deserve. Valdarno di Sopra, Val di Chiana, Pisa and Val d’Orcia all have outstanding winemakers who are trailblazing in their regions. Then, of course, there’s Cortona, Montecucco and Carmignano, where the size of the DOC or DOCG prevents these producers from gaining the recognition they deserve. Carmignano has only 13 wineries in the Consorzio, and I typically only see three of its producers in international markets. Does that mean the rest of them aren’t worth our attention? Of course not. The same can be said for Montecucco. Not every region has the funds or organization to push its name out into the world, so if a wine lover doesn’t happen to visit the area or find the wines on a local list while visiting Tuscany, how will they ever know what they are missing?
That’s why I consider this one of the year's most important reports. While this may not be a deep dive into a specific terroir or an in-depth view of a particular vintage, it is a collection of exceptional wines that deserve attention.
New Developments in Montecucco
In previous reports, I’ve gone into detail regarding Montecucco’s terroir. I urge readers to reference my article Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond for an in-depth discussion on the topic. Montecucco is a fascinating region, yet it is far too diverse to pigeonhole. The most significant factor in its diversity is its sheer size and the drastic changes in elevations and soils as its borders stretch from the Tuscan coast up to the slopes of Mount Amiata. With that said, many winemakers from surrounding regions (Montalcino being the closest, as it borders Montecucco to the north and east) have planted stakes here. However, for the most part, wineries outside of Montecucco with vineyards within Montecucco are forced to bottle their wines as IGT Toscana. The reason for this lies in the rules of the DOC, which prevent any winemaker without a winery located within the area from using Montecucco on their label. A rare example is Sassetti Livio, known as Sassetti Livio Pertimali in Montalcino, a winery that makes Montecucco within the DOC, as they purchased vineyards in the region and a facility. With this in mind, Il Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco has proposed removing this stipulation from the region's governing DOC and DOCG rules. This would be a significant boon to the region and would allow a large number of outside winemakers, often with prestigious names in other areas, to begin producing a Montecucco Rosso or Montecucco Sangiovese with the DOC or DOCG stated on the label.
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Tuscany offers a wealth of exceptional wines, from Sangiovese to international varieties, that thrive throughout its lesser-known locations. This report highlights nearly 200 wines, many from emerging terroirs, aiming to uncover hidden gems and showcase the full breadth of Tuscany's winemaking potential.
Show all the wines (sorted by score)
Producers in this Article
- Ambrogio E Giovanni Folonari Tenute
- Amerighi
- Argiano
- Bakkanali
- Basile
- Beconcini
- Bibi Graetz
- Campinuovi
- Cantagallo
- Collemassari
- Colli Medicei
- Colline San Biagio
- Donatella Cinelli Colombini
- Fabrizio Pratesi
- Fattoria Ambra
- Fattoria Bonsalto
- Fibbiano
- Ficomontanino
- Fonterenza
- Giodo
- Il Borro
- Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara
- La Casaccia di Franceschi
- La Nascosta
- Le Farnete
- Maciarine
- Maestà della Formica
- Montenero Winery
- Otto Ettari
- Peteglia
- Petra
- Piaggia
- Pieriniebrugi
- Podere Forte
- Podere Montale
- Poggiomandorlo
- Poggio Stenti
- Salustri Leonardo
- Sapaio
- Sassetti Livio
- Sassolo di Mannelli Antonio
- Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro
- Tenuta Ceri
- Tenuta di Artimino
- Tenuta di Capezzana
- Tenuta La Borriana
- Tenuta Pianirossi
- Tenuta Prima Pietra
- Usiglian del Vescovo