The Deep Bench of Gigondas

BY JOSH RAYNOLDS | JANUARY 19, 2023

Like the rest of the Rhône valley, and Europe, Gigondas has been confronting hot, dry weather conditions since 2017. Luckily, the best, most experienced growers and winemakers have handled the situation with a steady hand. Still, there’s no question that many wines from recent vintages are distinctly powerful, often high in alcohol, with more dark fruit character and tannic structure than usual.

Gigondas wines can show distinct elegance, even complexity on the young side, which is a big part of their appeal compared to quite a few of their neighbors. Lofty percentages of high altitude-grown Grenache, from relatively cooler conditions, are undoubtedly the leading factor for these characteristics. Producers here tend to lean on large, usually neutral oak foudres and large concrete vats for raising their wines; both vessels are ideal for retaining freshness. They are also essential for making Grenache, a highly oxidative variety that usually doesn’t take well to small barrel treatment in the cellar.

Some seriously involved winemaking calculations on an old tank at Raspail-Ay, one of the most storied domaines in Gigondas.

While a handful of producers can command high, even very high, prices for their tiny production, single-site or prestige bottlings, the overwhelming majority of Gigondas fall comfortably under $50 a bottle. Numerous outstanding wines come in below $30 as well. The average quality standard for Gigondas is remarkable, regardless of the prices asked, which is all the more impressive. A handful of wines can show a rustic streak, especially if their blends are high in Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. However, sloppy winemaking, obsolete cellar equipment, dirty working conditions and dodgy barrels are now true rarities here.

A significant reason for the uniformly high quality of wines produced here is the relatively small and very tight community, with a very active producers association. Most producers live in the village, and many others live nearby in Vacqueyras, Sablet, Rasteau, Beaumes-de-Venise or Violés, rarely more than ten minutes away. Slacking off is noted in such a small setting, and nobody wants to be “that person” in a village with so many high-quality and increasingly famous producers. Secondly, increased demand, and the pricing that follows, has allowed domaines to invest in better equipment, especially presses and modern bottling lines. The younger generation of winemakers is highly educated, and most are quite well-traveled. Gigondas producers know where they stand on the wine map. They know how they want to be perceived in the world market and are ambitious and competitive.

Availability, Prestige and Pricing