Châteauneuf-du-Pape New Releases: Welcome to the Pleasuredome

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER | JUNE 29, 2023

Traveling to Châteauneuf-du-Pape this spring brought up mixed emotions. I felt incredibly privileged and filled with a childlike sense of joy to taste and review these unique wines for Vinous. Yet the tragic passing of Josh Raynolds was an ever-present topic and usually the first part of any conversation. Every producer I met shared their most vivid Josh memory, such as a winery tasting as early as 6:00am or very late in the evening, where Josh almost had to be kicked out so the winemakers could go to sleep. Josh exemplified dedication, resilience and an unyielding work ethic. It soon became evident that he touched an incredible number of people, leaving profound grief behind. May his memory be cherished for as long as water flows down the Rhône River, as testament to his lasting impact on those who knew him.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is famous for its old vines planted on galets roulés, which are essentially rounded pebble stones over sandy, iron-rich clay.

A Little Refresher

Initially established on May 15th, 1936, Châteauneuf-du-Pape was officially the very first French wine to achieve an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). It became an AOC before other prestigious French wine regions such as Bordeaux, Alsace or Champagne. This prevented the unauthorized use of the name by individuals or entities outside the region and helped to form a distinctive regional identity. Some of those initial rules have stood the test of time and remain in full force today. Therefore, wine production in Châteauneuf-du-Pape remains highly regulated, with strict guidelines on grape varieties, yields and winemaking techniques, undoubtedly contributing to the maintained quality and reputation of the wines.

All 13 permitted varieties (18 if we count in also the five color variants, for example, Clairette Rose) can be vinified together or separately, regardless of their color. Different grapes can be co-fermented, as is frequently practiced with Syrah and Viognier in the Northern Rhône appellations. Small portions of white varieties add floral and citrus aromas when co-fermented with reds. This may reduce the overall alcohol if the white grapes carry less sugar than the reds and boost color stability as well as intensity. That said, Grenache and its variants represent roughly 70% of all planted grape varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape today.

Many winemakers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape own vineyards in different areas within the appellation and are blessed with diverse soil types. Domaine Bosquet des Papes, for example, owns 32 hectares of vines scattered across 45 parcels. Soil types include: galets roulés, which are essentially rounded pebble stones over sandy, iron-rich clay, sandy soils, and finally, éclats calcaires that have an increased proportion of limestone. Blending from different parcels and soil types has been the key to complex and balanced wines since the AOC’s inception.

Approximately 3,130 hectares (7,734 acres) of vines are in production in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, of which 35% are either certified organic, certified biodynamic or in the conversion to organic process. Currently, 220 producers are making AOC wines, and the region is home to many family-owned wineries, such as the Perrin family’s Château de Beaucastel, the Férauds’ Domaine de Pegau and Domaine Famille Isabel Ferrando (previously called Domaine Saint Préfert). Keeping these wineries in the families for generations helps to pass on a wealth of knowledge regarding grape growing and winemaking, including the most relevant topic of our time: how to ensure freshness in this warm Mediterranean climate in the context of climate change.

Lastly, but not any less relevant, local winemaking families could simply enjoy their wines' commercial success and pleasure in the various delights the South of France offers, yet the contrary is the case. These are hardworking people dedicated to achieving the full potential of what the earth has given them. Paul-Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes is one of the most respected winemakers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. When I visited Avril this year, his fingers were covered in a darkish taint as he had been sealing large-format bottles requiring manual labor. And for many years, I have seen Emmanuel Reynaud of Château Rayas driving a modest grey Volkswagen. It is soothing to know that winemakers here remain humble and focused, which is generally reflected in the wines they craft.