The Southern Rhône’s Value PlayWhile wine collectors and much of the wine press
consistently focus their attention on the elite growing regions of the southern
Rhône Valley, namely Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, the vast
majority of the region’s wines come from less-sexy locales. Not surprisingly,
these bottlings are almost always priced more gently than their fancy, better-known
cousins. Best of all, in many instances they offer stunning value.As is the case throughout the southern Rhône, Grenache
rules in blends, with percentages of the variety often far greater than the
minimum required (typically 50%) by their respective appellations. At the same
time, many of these vineyards experience cooler and often longer growing seasons
than other areas, namely Châteauneuf-du-Pape, so they rely more heavily on the
late-ripening Mourvèdre and Syrah. Maximum permitted yields are also higher
than they are in the marquee appellations.The result, as might be expected, is wines that are
usually less opulent than those from the luxe neighborhoods, with lower alcohol
levels and typically less complexity and ageworthiness. That’s great news for
the vast majority of consumers, as most of these wines are drinkable on the
young side, if not immediately upon release, even if the best examples will
reward some cellaring. These wines are frequently bottled within a year of
harvest, which means that a number of 2015s will soon be reaching export
markets.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1464878528839-Vines+and+olive+trees+share+space+throughout+the+region%2C+like+here%2C+at+Beaumes-de-Venise+copy.JPG"> Vines and olive
trees share space throughout the region, like here, in Beaumes-de-VeniseThe best wines covered in this article come from
appellations that have been awarded AOC status—now also called AOP (Appellation
d'Origine Protégée), in accordance with EU standards, but old-timers like this
writer are having a tough time making the bureaucrat-mandated language
changeover. While there are a number of excellent wines being made that bear
the simpler Côtes-du-Rhône Villages moniker (especially those from Sablet,
Séguret, Valréas and Plan de Dieu), the overall standard of wines that have won
AOP recognition (commonly called “crus”) are usually—or at least should be—of higher quality.Of additional interest is that many of these wines are
made by producers who are based in the big-time appellations, which means that
these wines benefit from the care and attention that well-heeled, conscientious
vignerons are able to lavish upon
them. Of course, many extremely serious and talented growers and winemakers
operate exclusively within the so-called “lesser” appellations covered in this
article and even though their work doesn’t grab the attention given to their
colleagues in the big three areas, it can often be at a similar level of
dedication.Main AOPs (Appellations d'Origine Protégées)
Featured in this ArticleVinsobresSituated well to the cooler north of most of the Southern
Rhône’s growing areas, Vinsobres produces wines that often contain a healthy
dose of Syrah, and they show it. The mandated blend here requires 50% Grenache,
at least 25% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre, and the balance Cinsault, Carignan,
Counoise, Vaccarèse, Picpoul Noir and Terret Noir, as well as permitted white
varieties, which include Clairette, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache
Gris, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Picpoul, Ugni Blanc, Viognier and Muscardin,
but white grapes cannot make up more than 5% of the final blend.RasteauLying just south and west of Vinsobres, this appellation’s
wines usually tend to the ample, muscular side thanks to their Mourvèdre and
Syrah components. In my experience they also age quite well—at least as well as
most examples of Vacqueyras. A minimum of 50% Grenache is required for the wines,
with at least 20% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre and no more than 20% Carignan and/or
Cinsault and Counoise allowed in the blend. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1464878589431-The+village+of+Rasteau+enjoys+dramatic+views+of+the+region%27s+varied+landscapes+and+vineyards+copy.JPG">&nbsp;The village of
Rasteau enjoys dramatic views of the region's varied landscapes and vineyardsCairanneThis appellation, which lies just north and west of
Gigondas, was only elevated to AOP status this year, so any wines currently in
the market will still be labeled Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages. As with
Rasteau, the wines must contain a minimum of 50% Grenache and 20% Syrah and/or
Mourvèdre, with no more than 20% of Cinsault and/or Carignan and Counoise.
Generally speaking, the wines are more graceful and racy than those of Rasteau
and bear comparison to Vacqueyras, with perhaps a bit less structure.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1464878608091-Bucolic+Cairanne+as+seen+from+its+vineyards+-COVER.jpeg">&nbsp;Bucolic Cairanne as
seen from its vineyardsBeaumes-de-Venise
and Muscat Beaumes-de-VeniseSituated close by Vacqueyras, to its south,
Beaumes-de-Venise produces generous, nicely structured wines based on at least
50% Grenache and 25% Syrah, with the balance made up of other varieties,
usually Mourvèdre but with the other usual suspects, whites as well as reds,
also permitted, as at Vinsobres. The sweet Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise wines,
which are becoming tougher to find in export markets, are made from Muscat à
Petits Grains. In the past some versions were lightly fortified but virtually
any rendition one might run across today is made without any alcohol added.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1464878640764-Beaumes-de-Venise+is+highly+regarded+for+poducing+sturdy+red+and+exotically+perfumed+sweet+white+wines+copy.JPG">&nbsp;Beaumes-de-Venise produces
powerful red and intensely perfumed, sweet winesLiracFans of Châteauneuf-du-Pape will find plenty of interest
in Lirac as a growing number of Châteauneuf producers have taken positions
here. Lying just across the Rhône river, slightly west of Avignon, with soils
quite similar to those at Châteauneuf, Lirac’s wines tend to be fleshy and
ample, with forward fruit and gentle tannins that make for early appeal.
There’s a minimum of 40% Grenache required here, along with at least 25% of
Mourvèdre and/or Syrah and a maximum of 10% Cinsault and/or Carignan.TavelAll of the wines allowed to bear the Tavel name are pink,
so the term “Tavel Rosé” is redundant. Classic Tavels are full-bodied as pink
wines go, and they also age surprisingly well, as bottles more than 20 years
old have often proved to me. Grenache is the dominant grape used here, with
Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Calitor permitted, along with the
white Clairette, Clairette Gris (or Rose), Bourboulenc and Picpoul varieties.I tasted the wines reviewed in this article in late
winter and spring in New York.You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/2014-and-2013-gigondas-wines-to-drink-not-hold-may-2016">2014
and 2013 Gigondas: Wines to&nbsp;Drink, Not Hold</a>, Josh Raynolds, May 2016<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/vacqueyras-excellent-values-from-the-southern-rhone-apr-2016">Vacqueyras: Excellent Values from the Southern Rhône</a>, Josh Raynolds, April 2016 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-blanc-enters-the-21st-century-apr-2016">Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Enters the 21st Century</a>, Josh Raynolds, April 2016<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-reds-the-flamboyant-2014s-and-the-structured-2013s-apr-2016">Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds:&nbsp;The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s</a>, Josh Raynolds, April 2016<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/2014-and-2013-northern-rhone-great-wines-if-you-can-find-them-march-2016">2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them</a>, Josh Raynolds, March 2016<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/vacqueyras-promising-2013s-and-ready-to-drink-2012s-may-2015">Vacqueyras’ Promising 2013s and Ready to Drink 2012s</a>, Josh Raynolds, May 2015<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/gigondas-new-releases-may-2015">Gigondas&nbsp;—&nbsp;New Releases</a>, Josh Raynolds, May 2015<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-the-lively-2013s-and-the-lush-2012s-apr-2015">Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s</a>, Josh Raynolds, April 2015
























































































































-- Josh Raynolds

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