Vacqueyras New Releases: Walking the Underdog

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER | NOVEMBER 09, 2023

In the heart of the Southern Rhône Valley, where sprawling vineyards bask in the Mediterranean sun, lies a hidden gem - Vacqueyras. This unassuming appellation, often overshadowed by its illustrious neighbor, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, has quietly been making waves in the world of wine. Since its AOC recognition in 1990, Vacqueyras has been trying to prove its worth. As wine connoisseurs whisper tales of its affordability and quality, one question inevitably emerges: can Vacqueyras truly hold its own against the nearby titan of Châteauneuf-du-Pape?

A touch of Hollywood in Vacqueyras.

Interestingly, consumers often draw comparisons to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Vacqueyras aficionados widely find that these wines can offer the quality of Châteauneuf-du-Pape but at a fraction of the price. Indeed, while most red Vacqueyras in the United States retail for around $22 to $35, Châteauneuf-du-Pape prices only start at around $35. Some rare bottlings even soar above the $200 mark. Aside from the exceptional and pricy Château des Tours, Vacqueyras rarely exceeds $60 in price. Whether Vacqueyras can genuinely rival and potentially surpass Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a legitimate question. Before sharing my personal view, let’s take a closer look at some of the appellation specifics, the wide range of grape growing techniques and winemaking styles, as well as the latest four vintages: 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2019.

Vacqueyras in a Nutshell

The 1,477 hectares (3,650 acres) of vineyards are less than half the size of neighboring Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with its approximately 3,130 hectares (7,734 acres). Two hundred thirty grape-growing families and 110 individual wine producers set the tone, with four major co-operatives, such as Rhonéa, also crafting substantial amounts of wines. Approximately six million bottles are produced annually, of which roughly 94% are red, 5% white and the remainder Rosé. Lastly, Vacqueyras is also home to a handful of outstanding producers, starting with the iconic Château des Tours, complemented by leading domains such as Le Sang des Cailloux, La Ligière or Montirius, whose wines consistently deliver.

Out of the 1,477 hectares, 1,391 are currently planted with red varieties. Grenache leads the pack at 867 hectares, followed by Syrah and Mourvèdre at 378 and 102 hectares respectively. This only leaves 86 hectares planted with white varieties. Here, Clairette Blanc comes out on top with 25 hectares, followed by Roussanne (21 hectares), Grenache Blanc (19 hectares), Viognier (13 hectares) and Marsanne (8 hectares). Except for Picardan, Piquepoul Blanc and Piquepoul Gris, Vacqueyras permits the same grapes that Châteauneuf-du-Pape allows. But, in addition to Viognier and Marsanne, which are both not allowed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras also authorizes the use of Carignan. Let’s establish what each of those three varieties can contribute to Vacqueyras blends.

Marsanne in Vacqueyras is always blended with other grapes and is never made as a single varietal. If made into white wine, the AOC regulations say that none of the permitted grapes can exceed 80% in a blend with other varieties. Marsanne shares some similarities with Roussanne, such as moderate levels of soft acidity, while it is generally more viscously textured, age-worthy and less aromatic than Roussanne.