Gigondas: Triumphs, Challenges and New
Beginnings

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER |&nbsp;OCTOBER 15, 2024My trip to
Gigondas this year was highly anticipated for three reasons. First, I was eager
to see how the 2022 reds had developed, as that vintage posed significant
challenges for winemakers, really putting their skills to the test. Secondly,
the first 2023 reds were ready for tasting, and having sampled the wines from
Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Vacqueyras just a few days earlier, I was curious to
see how Gigondas measured up. But perhaps most of all, I was excited to taste
the first-ever official Gigondas Blanc from the 2023 vintage, which is why I
dedicated much of my report this year to the whites, giving this new category
the spotlight it deserves.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729002278081-Clairette+grapes+in+Gigondas+waking+up+to+a+crisp+September+morning._copy.jpg">Clairette grapes in Gigondas waking up to a crisp September morning. Welcoming Gigondas Blanc The first
vintage of Gigondas Blanc is about to reach consumers across the globe.
Nineteen producers made a total of 400 hectoliters, corresponding to a little
over 53,000 standard-sized 0.75-liter bottles. Interestingly, there is 60% more
Gigondas Blanc than Gigondas Rosé in the inaugural 2023 vintage. With
enthusiasm running high among winemakers in the appellation and consumers eager
to taste the wine, many estates aim to increase the production of white grape
varieties, either through new plantings or re-grafting on existing rootstocks.
Expanding the Gigondas AOC area is not an option, as all the surrounding
woodlands, which would need to be cleared, are protected.

Louis
Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme emphasizes that young vines are needed for
re-grafting, as older vines are less vigorous and have a higher incidence of
disease. A look at the appellation rulebook reveals that any Gigondas Blanc
must use a minimum of 70% Clairette Blanche as the principal variety.
Complementary varieties, which may or may not be used, include Bourboulenc
(used, for example, by Domaine Santa Duc), Clairette Rose (Domaine Saint
Damien), Grenache Blanc (Domaine de Longue Toque), Grenache Gris (Domaine Les
Teyssonnieres), Marsanne (Grandes Serres), Picquepoul (Domaine du Pesquier) and
Roussanne (Le Mas des Flauzières). Viognier (Pierre Amadieu, Domaine de la
Mavette) and Ugni Blanc are classified as accessory varieties, which can be
used but must not exceed 5% of the total blend. Among the 18 wines I’ve tasted
for this report, half are single-varietal Clairette, while the rest include at
least one of these additional varieties.

Enthusiasts
of Southern Rhône whites will have noticed by now that Clairette thrives in a
warm Mediterranean climate, as demonstrated by several Châteauneuf-du-Pape
winemakers. First cited in 1575, the late-ripening Clairette is ideal for
regions with longer growing seasons. It excels in calcareous soils, such as the
limestone-rich soils in Gigondas. Single-varietal Clairette typically yields
simple, crisp white wines for early drinking. Natural acidity is moderate, with
aromas including white flowers, citrus fruits and herbaceous accents like
fennel.

Winemakers
stress the importance of choosing the right harvest date with Clairette: “I
don't think Clairette should be picked with 14% potential alcohol. I harvest at
12.5%, and here in Gigondas, at that level, about 60% of the grapes have
already turned golden, which is enough to develop aromas and texture,” Louis Barruol
explains. That said, the appellation mandates that Gigondas Blanc must have at
least 12% alcohol. In the cellar, the wines are typically made by direct
pressing of whole clusters, cold settling for up to five days and fermentation
in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks or various sizes of oak
vessels. While some winemakers use cultured yeast to start fermentation, and to
enhance varietal aromatics for aromatic complementary varieties like Roussanne
or Viognier, others rely solely on ambient agents.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729002378245-Clairette+Blanche+is+the+varietal+at+the+heart+of+every+Gigondas+Blanc._copy.jpg">Clairette Blanche is the varietal at the heart of every Gigondas Blanc. 

One of the
main challenges when working with Clairette is the risk of reduction, which winemakers
address by clarifying the juice well. This process reduces suspended solids in
the must, including particles from stems, seeds and grape skins, all of which contain compounds that can produce off-flavors during fermentation. Benjamin Gras cites
clarification as the most important step when vinifying Clairette, noting that
reductive Clairette can develop markedly unpleasant aromas. Fortunately, none
of the wines I tasted for this report exhibited off-putting reduction.

Malolactic conversion
is usually blocked entirely or partially to preserve as much natural acidity as
possible. Maturation usually lasts around ten months in various types of
vessels and materials, such as new oak barriques (50% at Domaine Saint Damien
for the 2023), amphorae (Pierre Amadieu), or even glass demijohns (Domaine
Santa Duc). Before bottling, the wines are sulfured and filtered.

So, how are
they? First, Gigondas Blanc offers a distinctive profile to white
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Gigondas Blanc is dominated by Clairette Blanche leading
to wines with less richness compared to whites from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where
Roussanne plays a more significant role, resulting in more aromatic and opulent
wines with a greater concentration of flavor. Secondly, Gigondas Blanc is
notably crisp and refreshing, influenced by the higher altitudes and cooler Gigondas
climate, particularly due to the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range, which
brings lower morning temperatures. Thirdly, winemakers with old vines, such as
Château de Saint Cosme, have an advantage in producing wines with greater depth
and flavor concentration.

Fourthly,
based on my assessment, the finest wines of this inaugural 2023 vintage are
single-varietal Clairette. That said, there are some fantastic blends, such as the
Clos des Hospices from Domaine Santa Duc or the Romaine Machotte from Pierre
Amadieu. Whether the decision not to mandate single-varietal Clairette in the
appellation was wise remains to be seen, though. Had it been restricted to only
Clairette Blanche, which is what some winemakers advocated for, it might have
given Gigondas Blanc a clearer identity in the crowded world of fine wine. On
the other hand, the ability to blend is a longstanding tradition in the
Southern Rhône, offering varietal flexibility in an era of a changing climate
and rapidly shifting consumer preferences.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729002412644-Jean-Marie+Amadieu+of+Pierre+Amadieu+explaining+their+different+terroirs._copy.jpg">Jean-Marie Amadieu of Pierre Amadieu explaining their different terroirs. The 2023 Growing Season The 2023 vintage
began with an unusually wet end to 2022, as both November and December saw
nearly double the typical amount of rainfall. However, this initial water abundance
was followed by a prolonged dry spell, stretching well into spring. Rainfall
did not return in significant amounts until the end of May, and by the time
summer arrived, water levels were 30% lower than usual. Despite these
challenges, the vines benefitted from water reserves accumulated over the wet winter
months. Storms and hail made occasional appearances, although with minor impact
on vineyards.

From
October 2022 through January 2023, temperatures remained unseasonably mild.
Thankfully, there were no late frost events, which allowed the vines to
progress uninterrupted. Spring brought slightly cooler temperatures; the
weather returned warmer than average by June. This provided favorable conditions
for a smooth flowering, hinting at the possibility of a generous crop. As we’ll
see later, higher crop loads due to successful flowering were one of the keys
to success in 2023. Dry conditions persisted throughout the summer, and fungal
disease pressure remained low, contributing to the overall vine health and grape
quality.

July and
August saw several heat waves, sometimes exceeding 40°C (104°F), as Julien
Bréchet at Domaine des Bosquets reported. Due to higher crop loads from flowering,
Bréchet noted that ripening was delayed compared to the 2022 vintage. The large
crop loads also withstood the heat better, he added. As the summer progressed,
the persistent dry conditions began to take their toll on certain vineyard
blocks, particularly on Syrah planted in well-draining soils. By late August, the
grapes of some of these vines started to shrivel, with the timely rains of
August 27 (20mm) arriving too late to fully restore the fruit.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729002440919-Romain+Saurel+%28left%29+of+Domaine+Saint-Damien+with+his+father+Jo%C3%ABl._copy.jpg">Romain Saurel with his father,&nbsp;Joël, at Domaine Saint-Damien.

While some
winemakers confirmed the presence of occasional ripening blockages, Romain
Saurel of Domaine Saint Damien witnessed a slowdown in maturation rather than a
complete halt. This led to long pauses between picking different parcels and
appellations: “We harvested some Côtes-du-Rhône and Plans de Dieu in Gigondas,
then paused for a full 12 days, which was something new for me.” Gigondas harvest
generally began in early September, with the first Syrah grapes picked around
September 8th. The main effort then commenced after September 15th
and concluded in the latest ripening blocks by October 10th.

Mid-September
rains introduced dilution in some grapes, particularly in fruit picked shortly
after the rain on September 20th. That said, the majority ripened
well, aided by cool nights, which promoted aromatic development and acidity
retention. These conditions produced lush wines with ripe fruit expressions and
a broad aromatic spectrum. Sugar levels developed slower than in 2022,
resulting in wines that are less powerful and more elegant. Some winemakers,
such as Benjamin Gras from Domaine Santa Duc, tried to add more liquid to their
musts by incorporating whole clusters, 50% in his case. Paul Fumoso of Domaine
du Gour de Chaulé followed the same philosophy, using roughly 40%. Macerations
in 2023 were often slightly longer compared to 2022 because the risk of obtaining
overly tannic wines was less evident.

With
winemakers reporting healthy yields between 30 and 35 hectoliters per hectare
for red varieties and 40 to 45 hectoliters for whites, the 2023 vintage hinged
on the 20mm rain that arrived in late August. While some blocks struggled,
others thrived, yielding a vintage that reflects the dynamic growing season.
The wines at this early stage are inviting and generous, showing ripe fruit and
approachability, with sufficient acidity and refined tannin structures. Less
dark and concentrated as the preceding vintage, 2023 produced wines of charm
and balance, ideal for early enjoyment while maintaining aging potential.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729002467221-Tasting+the+inaugural+2023+Gigondas+Blancs+rendered+mostly+positive+verdicts._copy.jpg">Tasting the inaugural 2023 Gigondas Blancs rendered mostly positive verdicts. 2022: The Final Verdict Two
thousand twenty-two turned out to be a very good vintage for Gigondas reds,
with the crown for the wine of the year shared among three producers: Château
de Saint Cosme, Domaine des Bosquets and Domaine du Gour de Chaulé. Besides
these high flyers, 2022 also shows consistency across the board. Many wines
where I had reservations about tannins being too astringent when tasting
unfinished barrel samples last year benefited from the remainder of their élevage,
coming together in harmony. That said, the marked tannic structure remains one
of the prominent features of the vintage. And although 2022 beats 2021 in a
landslide quality-wise, it doesn’t possess the striking balance and
completeness of the 2020 vintage, which I consider one of the finest in recent
Southern Rhône history. Lastly, the 2022 reds are built for the long haul and
will need more time to show their full potential than the 2020, 2021 and even
2023 vintages.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729002617598-Enticing+line-up+at+Domaine+des+Bosquets._copy2.jpg">An enticing line-up at Domaine des Bosquets. Final Thoughts As a final
remark, I’ve paid close attention this time to distinguishing red Gigondas from
red Châteauneuf-du-Pape in blind tastings. Assuming the same vintage, varietal
blend and winemaking techniques are used, I often find that red
Châteauneuf-du-Pape exhibits a characteristic Grenache-driven smoothness, often
perceived as a slight sweetness–a rarer quality in Gigondas. Even when
Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers aim to avoid overly rich or sweet-tasting wines
(though they are technically dry), this smooth, almost enveloping quality
remains a hallmark of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. If a wine has sweeter-tasting fruit and
feels smoother, richer and more opulent, it’s most probably from
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Lastly, Gigondas tannins are often less refined compared
to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which further emphasizes the smoothness attribute of
the latter. That’s why Gigondas is anything but a Châteauneuf lookalike – it’s
one of the most distinctive Southern Rhône Crus, worthy of recognition on its
own rather than simply being compared to its more famous neighbor.

I tasted
all the wines in this report in Gigondas during September 2024.© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/gigondas-the-southern-rhone-jewel-shines-and-adapts-jan-2024">Gigondas: The Southern Rhône Jewel Shines and Adapts</a>, Nicolas Greinacher, January 2024 <div><div></div></div><div><div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-deep-bench-of-gigondas-jan-2023">The Deep Bench of Gigondas</a>, Josh Raynolds, January 2023 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/gigondas-maintains-its-tempo-feb-2020">Gigondas Maintains Its Tempo</a>, Josh Raynolds, February 2020</div></div>

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