Gigondas: Triumphs, Challenges and New Beginnings

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER | OCTOBER 15, 2024

My trip to Gigondas this year was highly anticipated for three reasons. First, I was eager to see how the 2022 reds had developed, as that vintage posed significant challenges for winemakers, really putting their skills to the test. Secondly, the first 2023 reds were ready for tasting, and having sampled the wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Vacqueyras just a few days earlier, I was curious to see how Gigondas measured up. But perhaps most of all, I was excited to taste the first-ever official Gigondas Blanc from the 2023 vintage, which is why I dedicated much of my report this year to the whites, giving this new category the spotlight it deserves.

Clairette grapes in Gigondas waking up to a crisp September morning.

Welcoming Gigondas Blanc

The first vintage of Gigondas Blanc is about to reach consumers across the globe. Nineteen producers made a total of 400 hectoliters, corresponding to a little over 53,000 standard-sized 0.75-liter bottles. Interestingly, there is 60% more Gigondas Blanc than Gigondas Rosé in the inaugural 2023 vintage. With enthusiasm running high among winemakers in the appellation and consumers eager to taste the wine, many estates aim to increase the production of white grape varieties, either through new plantings or re-grafting on existing rootstocks. Expanding the Gigondas AOC area is not an option, as all the surrounding woodlands, which would need to be cleared, are protected.

Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme emphasizes that young vines are needed for re-grafting, as older vines are less vigorous and have a higher incidence of disease. A look at the appellation rulebook reveals that any Gigondas Blanc must use a minimum of 70% Clairette Blanche as the principal variety. Complementary varieties, which may or may not be used, include Bourboulenc (used, for example, by Domaine Santa Duc), Clairette Rose (Domaine Saint Damien), Grenache Blanc (Domaine de Longue Toque), Grenache Gris (Domaine Les Teyssonnieres), Marsanne (Grandes Serres), Picquepoul (Domaine du Pesquier) and Roussanne (Le Mas des Flauzières). Viognier (Pierre Amadieu, Domaine de la Mavette) and Ugni Blanc are classified as accessory varieties, which can be used but must not exceed 5% of the total blend. Among the 18 wines I’ve tasted for this report, half are single-varietal Clairette, while the rest include at least one of these additional varieties.

Enthusiasts of Southern Rhône whites will have noticed by now that Clairette thrives in a warm Mediterranean climate, as demonstrated by several Châteauneuf-du-Pape winemakers. First cited in 1575, the late-ripening Clairette is ideal for regions with longer growing seasons. It excels in calcareous soils, such as the limestone-rich soils in Gigondas. Single-varietal Clairette typically yields simple, crisp white wines for early drinking. Natural acidity is moderate, with aromas including white flowers, citrus fruits and herbaceous accents like fennel.

Winemakers stress the importance of choosing the right harvest date with Clairette: “I don't think Clairette should be picked with 14% potential alcohol. I harvest at 12.5%, and here in Gigondas, at that level, about 60% of the grapes have already turned golden, which is enough to develop aromas and texture,” Louis Barruol explains. That said, the appellation mandates that Gigondas Blanc must have at least 12% alcohol. In the cellar, the wines are typically made by direct pressing of whole clusters, cold settling for up to five days and fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks or various sizes of oak vessels. While some winemakers use cultured yeast to start fermentation, and to enhance varietal aromatics for aromatic complementary varieties like Roussanne or Viognier, others rely solely on ambient agents.

Clairette Blanche is the varietal at the heart of every Gigondas Blanc.