Gigondas: The Southern Rhône Jewel Shines and Adapts

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER | JANUARY 09, 2024

Since the end of 2022, one of the most prominently debated Gigondas topics has been centered on the appellation's introduction of the new Gigondas Blanc category, which finally makes its debut with the upcoming 2023 vintage. In contrast to neighboring Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Vacqueyras, which both secured approvals to bottle white wines from the early days of their AOC inception, Gigondas was a red-only identity, with only a minimal exception for Rosé. Who better to shed light on this significant appellation update than the AOC president, Louis Barruol—a prominent winemaker in his own right? Alongside other influential producers, such as Gigondas appellation Co-President Pierre Amadieu, Barruol has tirelessly advocated for this appellation rule change over many years. With the matter settled and the musts of the first vintage developing, both were keen to share more details about their year-long collaboration with French authorities. After a brief overview of the appellation’s latest attributes, this report addresses the new Gigondas Blanc category, covers the latest two vintages—2022 and 2021—and concludes with updated market information.

Gigondas vineyards underneath the Dentelles de Montmirail.

Gigondas at a Glance

Of the 1,224 hectares currently planted in Gigondas, Grenache Noir covers 789, up 2.5% (18 hectares) from 2016. Syrah and Mourvèdre are on the rise, too, growing by 6% and 10%, respectively, over the same period to 281 and 95 hectares. Also expanding, yet at much lower levels, are Cinsaut and Counoise. Those two varieties accumulate less sugar than Grenache Noir, making them increasingly valuable blending partners. On the white varieties, Clairette Blanche plantings have more than tripled from the 5.3 hectares planted in 2016 to 17.4 in 2023 to comply with the new Gigondas Blanc regulation of at least 70% Clairette Blanche. This highlights the increased emphasis of Gigondas winemakers on the emerging Gigondas Blanc category. Although growing, white varieties in Gigondas still constitute less than 2% of the total plantings.

Resembling Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the appellation regulations specify identical maximum yields of 35 hectolitres per hectare and a minimum natural alcohol content of 12.5%. Regarding blending requirements, AOC laws dictate that both red and Rosé wines must consist of a minimum of 50% Grenache Noir, and a potential mix of Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut must make up at least 90% of the overall blend. Notably, a rule allowing the production of single-varietal Grenache was amended concurrently with the introduction of the new Gigondas Blanc category. Today, Gigondas boasts 182 grape growers and 118 producers, with 80 domaines having their own labels. Cooperatives, including Rhônea, play a significant role, accounting for a total of five co-ops and 62 cooperators. Almost 20% of Gigondas vineyards are certified organic, a figure that is gradually on the rise.

Paul Fumoso is taking Domaine Gour de Chaulé to new heights.

In contrast to the nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, the growing environment in Gigondas differs significantly. A substantial portion of its vineyards experience morning shade cast by the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range. This unique topography results in cooler morning temperatures, effectively prolonging the grape maturation process. For aficionados of occasional hikes, it's worth noting that starting from the heart of Gigondas village, a journey up the Chemin des Dentelles de Montmirail takes just under an hour, rewarding hikers with a dazzling view of the appellation.

Another key feature of Gigondas in the Southern Rhône context is vineyard elevation. As a rule of thumb, temperature falls by roughly 0.6° degrees Celsius (1.1° Fahrenheit) for every increase in elevation of 100 meters (328 feet). Nearly half of the currently cultivated 1,224 hectares of vineyards sit between 200 and 400 meters (656 and 1,312 feet) above sea level. Additionally, approximately 80 hectares are situated at an elevation surpassing 400 meters (1,312 feet). In comparison, the highest vineyards in nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape rest at an elevation of only 120 meters (394 feet). Hence, in the present era, where cooling influences are significant in wine regions characterized by increasing warmth, Gigondas already boasts two inherent advantages. Furthermore, it's essential not to overlook the cooling effects of the Mistral wind.