Gigondas: The Southern Rhône Jewel Shines and
Adapts

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER |&nbsp;JANUARY 09, 2024Since the end of 2022, one of the most prominently
debated Gigondas topics has been centered on the appellation's introduction of
the new Gigondas Blanc category, which finally makes its debut with the upcoming 2023
vintage. In contrast to neighboring Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Vacqueyras, which
both secured approvals to bottle white wines from the early days of their AOC
inception, Gigondas was a red-only identity, with only a minimal exception for Rosé.
Who better to shed light on this significant appellation update than the AOC
president, Louis Barruol—a prominent winemaker in his own right? Alongside
other influential producers, such as Gigondas appellation Co-President Pierre
Amadieu, Barruol has tirelessly advocated for this appellation rule change over
many years. With the matter settled and the musts of the first vintage developing,
both were keen to share more details about their year-long collaboration with
French authorities. After a brief overview of the appellation’s latest attributes,
this report addresses the new Gigondas Blanc category, covers the latest two
vintages—2022 and 2021—and concludes with updated market information.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1704818611972-Gigondas+Vineyards+underneath+the+Dentelles+de+Montmirail._copy.jpg">Gigondas vineyards underneath the Dentelles de Montmirail. Gigondas at a Glance Of the 1,224 hectares currently planted in Gigondas, Grenache
Noir covers 789, up 2.5% (18 hectares) from 2016. Syrah and Mourvèdre are on
the rise, too, growing by 6% and 10%, respectively, over the same period to 281
and 95 hectares. Also expanding, yet at much lower levels, are Cinsaut and
Counoise. Those two varieties accumulate less sugar than Grenache Noir, making
them increasingly valuable blending partners. On the white varieties, Clairette
Blanche plantings have more than tripled from the 5.3 hectares planted in 2016
to 17.4 in 2023 to comply with the new Gigondas Blanc regulation of at least 70%
Clairette Blanche. This highlights the increased emphasis of Gigondas
winemakers on the emerging Gigondas Blanc category. Although growing, white varieties
in Gigondas still constitute less than 2% of the total plantings.

Resembling Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the appellation
regulations specify identical maximum yields of 35 hectolitres per hectare and
a minimum natural alcohol content of 12.5%. Regarding blending requirements,
AOC laws dictate that both red and Rosé wines must consist of a minimum of 50% Grenache
Noir, and a potential mix of Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut must
make up at least 90% of the overall blend. Notably, a rule allowing the
production of single-varietal Grenache was amended concurrently with the
introduction of the new Gigondas Blanc category. Today, Gigondas boasts 182
grape growers and 118 producers, with 80 domaines having their own labels.
Cooperatives, including Rhônea, play a significant role, accounting for a total
of five co-ops and 62 cooperators. Almost 20% of Gigondas vineyards are
certified organic, a figure that is gradually on the rise.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1704818662123-Paul+Fumoso+takes+Domaine+Gour+de+Chaul%C3%A9+to+new+hights._copy.jpg">Paul Fumoso is taking Domaine Gour de Chaulé to new heights.

In contrast to the nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape
appellation, the growing environment in Gigondas differs significantly. A substantial
portion of its vineyards experience morning shade cast by the Dentelles de
Montmirail mountain range. This unique topography results in cooler morning
temperatures, effectively prolonging the grape maturation process. For
aficionados of occasional hikes, it's worth noting that starting from the heart
of Gigondas village, a journey up the Chemin des Dentelles de Montmirail
takes just under an hour, rewarding hikers with a dazzling view of the
appellation.

Another key feature of Gigondas in the Southern Rhône
context is vineyard elevation. As a rule of thumb, temperature falls by roughly
0.6° degrees Celsius (1.1° Fahrenheit) for every increase in elevation of 100
meters (328 feet). Nearly half of the currently cultivated 1,224 hectares of
vineyards sit between 200 and 400 meters (656 and 1,312 feet) above sea level.
Additionally, approximately 80 hectares are situated at an elevation surpassing
400 meters (1,312 feet). In comparison, the highest vineyards in nearby
Châteauneuf-du-Pape rest at an elevation of only 120 meters (394 feet). Hence, in
the present era, where cooling influences are significant in wine regions
characterized by increasing warmth, Gigondas already boasts two inherent
advantages. Furthermore, it's essential not to overlook the cooling effects of
the Mistral wind.

Gigondas also distinguishes itself from neighboring
appellations through a significant difference in soil composition, marked
notably by its limestone content. Establishing a straightforward correlation
between the increased limestone content and specific wine attributes, such as
flavors or tannin texture, is not inherently apparent. I look forward to digging
deeper into this interesting subject on my next visit to Gigondas later this
year.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1704818713034-Strolling+through+the+vineyards+at+Domaine+des+Bosquets+with+proprietor+and+winemaker+Julien+Br%C3%A9chet%2C+accompanied+by+his+lovely+wife%2C+Justine._copy.jpg">Strolling through the vineyards at Domaine des Bosquets with proprietor and winemaker Julien Bréchet, accompanied by his lovely wife, Justine. Let There Be White Wine As of the 2023 vintage, Gigondas Blanc can now be
officially bottled instead of being labeled as a generic Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc.
Years of dedicated effort culminated in this modification, primarily led by the
president of the appellation, Louis Barroul, and other influential figures,
like appellation co-president and winemaker Pierre Amadieu. I had the
opportunity to delve into this subject through discussions with both.

I questioned Amadieu about the historical context, and
he responded: “In
1954, our predecessors applied for the appellation Locale Cru Gigondas, of
which 15% was white at the time. A few years later, in 1971, we obtained AOC
Gigondas appellation status for reds and Rosés, yet neglecting whites.”
Naturally, this exclusion led to a decline in white grape plantings. “But
despite the resulting low percentage of surface area dedicated to whites, some production
was maintained,” Amadieu adds. Still, no further attempts were made to get
white wines back under the AOC umbrella, probably also due to a lack of demand
for Southern Rhône whites at the time.

Forty years later, the Gigondas producers'
organization established a working party of winegrowers and negociants. Their
mission: re-exploring the potential of white grapes grown in various parts of
the appellation area. In 2018, when it was time to analyze the results of the
studies, the quality of the wines prompted the board to approve plans to change
production specifications. Four years later, on September 8, 2022, the
National Institute for Origin and Quality (INAO) finally approved the extension
of the AOC Gigondas appellation to include white wines.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1704818807452-Winemaker+and+proprietor+Benjamin+Gras+alongside+his+father+Yves+at+Domaine+Santa+Duc._copy.jpg">Winemaker and proprietor Benjamin Gras, alongside his father Yves, at Domaine Santa Duc. 

This transformation saw Clairette Blanche emerge as
the principal variety, constituting at least 70% in a final blend, either
fermented on its own or mixed with traditional white Rhône Valley grape
varieties grown in Gigondas. This includes Bourboulenc Blanc,
Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc and Gris, Marsanne Blanche, Piquepoul Blanc and
Roussanne. Viognier and Ugni Blanc can also be incorporated, but
not exceeding 5% of the final blend. 

Clairette Blanche was chosen as the principal variety
with the aim of letting the Gigondas terroir be most visible in the resulting
wines. Breaking down the attributes of Clairette Blanche in more detail,
Barruol points out its structure, “With good acidity and salinity singularly
expressed on the limestone soils of Gigondas, its good adaptation to the warm
Mediterranean climate and its suitability to thrive in the cooler areas of the
appellation.” In the discussions leading up to the decision, there was a debate
over whether to solely produce a single varietal Clairette Blanche or allow
blending. The reached compromise aimed to foster the production of individual
cuvées, yet without dismissing the Clairette base.

Gigondas' west and north-west orientation, along with
its elevated altitudes, results in a later ripening period than neighboring
appellations such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Vacqueyras. In theory, these cooling
effects, in combination with the limestone-rich soils, should be able to
provide a promising foundation to produce crisp whites, which is what many
consumers are looking for these days. I’m looking forward to tasting Gigondas
Blanc of the inaugural 2023 vintage later this year and reporting to what
extent the theory was put into practice.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1704818836213-Tasting+an+older+vintage+at+Domaine+Les+Palli%C3%A8res._copy.jpg">Tasting an older vintage at Domaine Les Pallières. 2022 After the 2021 harvest, October witnessed abundant
rainfall, but subsequent months experienced a notable deficiency in
precipitation. Consequently, winter rains failed to fully prepare the soils for
the upcoming growing season. In fact, aggregated rainfall in Gigondas was only
100mm from January 1 to August 15, compared to the average of 400mm for the
same period, resulting in drought. Budburst occurred around April 10, slightly
later than in the preceding year. The prolonged dry spell, paired with
insufficient soil moisture, led to water stress from early on. Elevated
temperatures, consistently exceeding seasonal averages, further intensified the
dry conditions. On the other hand, despite moderate powdery mildew pressure in
spring, the absence of excessive moisture preserved the fruit's health. Warm
temperatures aided vegetative growth, and flowering unfolded under favorable
conditions at the end of May.

In this dry and warm environment, the vines struggled
to ripen their fruit. By the end of July and early August, many went into
survival mode, blocking the maturation process entirely. Luckily, a rainstorm
on August 14 delivered 25mm of rain, and subsequent episodes a few days later
contributed an additional 45mm. These crucial water supplies revitalized the
vine cycle, allowing the vines to resume gradual fruit ripening. Harvesting for
white varieties commenced in the latter part of August, just preceding rains on
September 3, which delivered 35mm of precipitation. At that point, most black
varieties weren’t yet ready for picking. Eventually, thunderstorms on September
6 and 7 added an additional 110mm of rain that reinvigorated the vines. One
week later, the harvesting of the red varieties was in full swing, with the
last vineyards picked ahead of October 10, a fortnight before the last grapes
were picked in the preceding 2021 vintage. 

Warm and dry conditions delivered relatively small
berries, resulting in a high skin-to-juice ratio and elevated polyphenol
potential. This required careful consideration of extraction length,
temperature, method and frequency in the cellar. While many of the tasted samples
exhibited acceptable tannin quality, a number displayed remarkably astringent tannins.
On a positive note, the wines showcased delightful fruit intensity, freshness
and increased flavor concentration compared to the 2021 vintage. Alcohol levels
generally hover between 14 and 15.5 percent, similar to or slightly above those
from the preceding vintage. Average yields reached 30.46hL/ha, a 10% increase
from 2021, yet still below the 35hL/ha maximum set by AOC rules. While
surpassing the flavor concentration of 2021, the wines of 2022 seem to fall
slightly short of the more consistent 2020 vintage.

At this early stage, it looks like the wines of the
following producers are going to be at the upper end of the quality pyramid:
Château de Saint Cosme, Château la Croix des Pins, Domaine Brunely, Domaine
Brusset, Domaine des Bosquets, Domaine du Gour de Chaulé, Domaine du Grapillon
d'Or, Domaine La Bouïssiere, Domaine Les Pallières, Domaine Montirius, Domaine
Saint-Damien, Domaine Santa Duc, Pierre Amadieu and Xavier Vignon. I look
forward to tasting all these and other wines from bottle during my next visit.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1704818864254-Winemaker%2C+proprietor+and+Gigondas+AOC+president+Louis+Barruol+pouring+a+sample+at+Ch%C3%A2teau+de+Saint+Cosme._copy.jpg">Winemaker, proprietor and Gigondas AOC president Louis Barruol pouring a sample at Château de Saint Cosme.2021In his previous report, <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-deep-bench-of-gigondas-jan-2023">The Deep Bench of Gigondas</a>,
our late colleague Josh Raynolds wrote a brief summary of the climatic
conditions of the 2021 vintage. Similar to other Rhône Valley appellations,
both in the north and south, 2021 is marked by inconsistency. Despite a
relatively modest yield of 27.71hL/ha, numerous wines are characterized by a
deficiency in flavor concentration, structure and complexity. However, there
are instances where wines have displayed exceptional quality. Vintages like 2021
undoubtedly present severe challenges for winemakers, yet they serve as a clear
indicator of which producers can deliver not only in more favorable growing
conditions, such as in 2020, but also under more demanding circumstances. After
my assessment, Château de Saint Cosme, Domaine des Bosquets, Domaine du Gour de
Chaulé, Domaine Les Pallières, Domaine Saint-Damien and Domaine Santa Duc form
the group of wineries that were capable of delivering very good to even stunning
results in this demanding vintage. Apart from those top producers, several promising
wines are up for grabs, such as from Crous St. Martin, Domaine du Grand
Bourjassot, Domaine La Soumade, Domaine Paillère et Pied-Gu, Lavau and Réserve
Saint Dominique. Compared to the two surrounding vintages, the reds of 2021
generally lack extended maturation potential.Looking at the Markets Over the past decade, there has been a significant
shift in the proportion of imports and exports in regard to Gigondas wines,
along with changes in the distribution among various export markets. In 2010,
65% of the wines found their home in France; however, by 2021, that figure had decreased
to 53%. The export landscape has also witnessed substantial transformations. In
2010, Belgium held the lead at 27%, followed by the US at 15%. By 2021, the US
emerged as the primary destination for Gigondas imports, commanding a whopping
25% share, surpassing Belgium at 15%. Switzerland maintained its third position
in export volumes over time, trailed by the UK and Denmark. Under AOC Gigondas
laws, 99% of wines currently produced in the region are red, with the tiny
remainder being Rosé. The introduction of the new Gigondas Blanc category will likely
alter this dynamic over time, although the focus will undoubtedly continue to
be on the reds. In my latest pieces on <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-new-releases-welcome-to-the-pleasuredome-jun-2023">Châteauneuf-du-Pape</a>
and <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vacqueyras-new-releases-walking-the-underdog-nov-2023">Vacqueyras</a>,
I highlighted a gradual change in consumer preferences within key markets such
as the United States and Europe. Wine enthusiasts are increasingly gravitating
towards wines featuring more modest alcohol levels. This shift poses a notable
challenge for the sales of Southern Rhône wines, Gigondas included.

I tasted all the wines from this report in Gigondas
during August and September 2023.© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vacqueyras-new-releases-walking-the-underdog-nov-2023">Vacqueyras New Releases: Walking the Underdog</a>, Nicolas Greinacher, November 2023 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-new-releases-welcome-to-the-pleasuredome-jun-2023">Châteauneuf-du-Pape New Releases: Welcome to the Pleasuredome</a>, Nicolas Greinacher, June 2023<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-deep-bench-of-gigondas-jan-2023">The Deep Bench of Gigondas</a>, Josh Raynolds, January 2023

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social