Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc: 2016 &amp; 2017&nbsp;

BY JOSH RAYNOLDS | OCTOBER 25, 2018&nbsp;

While only 7% of total Châteauneuf-du-Pape production is
white wine, all but a handful of domaines in the region produce at least one
bottling, if often in tiny quantities (sometimes less than 100 cases per vintage).
As local restaurants have always taken a big chunk of these wines regardless of
vintage, the number of bottles that make it to the outside world will always be
extremely limited. But outstanding examples – and the number of such wines is growing
steadily – are more than worth the hunt, especially since the most recent
vintages (2017, 2016 and 2015) are all excellent.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1540490692210-Cha%CC%82teau+de+Beaucastel+has+long+produced+some+of+the+region%E2%80%99s+benchmark+white+wines.+copy.jpg"> Château de Beaucastel has long produced some of the region’s benchmark white wines&nbsp; 

Changing Times,
Changing Styles

Greater experience with – and general respect for – white
varieties by an increasing number of producers over the last decade has ushered
in a golden age for Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc.
In particular, gentler pressing of the grapes, increased use of
temperature-controlled tanks, and modernization of cellars throughout the
region have contributed to the overall improvement in wine quality, not to
mention the broader appeal of today’s wines. In fact, the general quality
standard of this region’s white bottlings has risen to the same level of
excellence as the best that northern Rhône AOCs, such as Condrieu and Hermitage,
can offer. I’d also add that the best of these wines bear comparison to some Premier
and even Grand Cru white Burgundies in terms of depth and complexity. While in
the not-too-distant past I would have been reluctant to recommend aging any but
a handful of producers’ white Châteauneufs for more than five to seven years, there
are now literally dozens of examples that possess the stuffing, balance and
energy to easily reward a decade-plus of cellaring.&nbsp;

Another factor that cannot be ignored when discussing Châteauneuf
blanc is the shift toward a greater
percentage of Clairette in the blends of a growing number of wines. Compared to
examples that rely heavily on Roussanne and, especially, Grenache Blanc, wines
that feature a higher percentage of Clairette tend to show a racier character,
with an emphasis on citrus fruits and minerality. That’s a big change from the
not-so-old days when most white wines of the region that favored Grenache Blanc
and Roussanne were weighty, honeyed and soft, with strong pit, tropical and
even exotic fruit character, sometimes with oxidative bruised-fruit qualities. While
some of those old-school wines aged reasonably well (one might more correctly
say “endured”) thanks to their sheer mass, their general lack of freshness made
them a tough choice for many wine lovers, including this one.

2017: Quality If
Not Quantity and Relatively Early Drinkability

While the growing season of 2017 bears some similarity to
2016, there are some noteworthy differences between the two vintages. Cold
spring weather in ’17 resulted in flowering issues, which decreased the size of
the final crop, in some cases significantly. A dry, very warm summer reduced
vine vigor (and yields), while the nights were generally less cool than those
of 2016. The low yields have given the wines very good concentration. Two
thousand seventeen also featured a much earlier harvest than that of 2016, with
the official start for white grapes on August 21 – more than two weeks earlier
than picking was allowed to begin in 2016. I suspect that the precocious
harvest contributed to the surprising freshness that’s displayed by many ‘17s –
a characteristic that I wouldn’t normally expect from a hot year. I’ll have the
chance to dive into more ‘17s this winter but, for now, my early take is that
it’s a vintage to drink on the young side, before the ‘16s and most of the ’15s
as well.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1540490743742-The+river+rock-strewn+soils+of+Isabel+Ferrando%E2%80%99s+Domaine+Saint-Pre%CC%81fert%2C+in+the+southern+sector+of+the+appellation+copy.jpg"> The river rock-strewn soils of Isabel Ferrando’s Domaine Saint-Préfert, in the southern sector of the appellation 

2016: An
Exceptional Vintage&nbsp;

None of the producers with whom I tasted this year described
2016 as anything less than an exceptional growing season; many called it “just
about perfect.” A felicitous combination of uneventful weather patterns,
well-timed rains, warm but not excessively hot days and consistently cool
nights resulted in healthy fruit that reached optimal ripeness while retaining
healthy acidity. The harvest for white grapes officially began on September 9 but
growers were under no pressure to pick as the region was enjoying ideal conditions.
They could stretch their picking out as long as they wished without worrying
about cold or wet weather. The result is a set of wines with noteworthy
intensity, vibrancy and tension, at once deep and delineated. The young ‘16s
are exceptionally food-friendly wines that also drink very nicely by themselves
thanks to their energy. That element of freshness should also ensure a smooth
aging curve, if you choose to stash them away.

2015: Structured
and Built To Age

I offered extensive coverage of the <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-blanc-moving-out-of-the-shadows-jun-2017">2015
Châteauneuf blancs</a> last year. Many
of those wines are still in the retail market. &nbsp;A handful of wines from this generally warm
vintage were released later by producers whose policy is either to age their
wines longer before bottling them or to let them rest a bit after bottling prior
to putting them on the market; some do both. The ‘15s continue to impress, showing
excellent concentration and structure as well as energy. I’m confident that
patient wine lovers will be pleased with their decision if they opt to keep the
best wines away for up to another decade. At that point, I’d suggest that these
bottles be served with rich seafood or poultry dishes, especially if mushrooms
or truffles are worked into the equation.

I tasted most of these wines during my visit to the southern
Rhône this past spring, and the rest of them in New York during summer and
early fall.You Might Also Enjoy <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/2016-chateauneuf-du-pape-the-beat-goes-on-jul-2018">2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: The Beat Goes On</a>, Josh Raynolds, July 2018<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-blanc-moving-out-of-the-shadows-jun-2017">Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc: Moving Out of the Shadows</a>, Josh Raynolds, June 2017<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/2015-chateauneuf-du-pape-power-and-balance-mar-2017">2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance</a>, Josh Raynolds, March 2017<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-blanc-enters-the-21st-century-apr-2016">Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Enters the 21st Century</a>, Josh Raynolds, April 2016

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