Vacqueyras: The
Southern Rhône’s Stealth Appellation

BY JOSH RAYNOLDS | FEBRUARY 27, 2020While its more famous neighbors have long been on the
radar of wine lovers and collectors, Vacqueyras
and its wines continue to fly under the radar. That is likely to soon change,
especially given the consistently fine value these wines offer and the
uniformly high quality of recent and upcoming vintages.

At this point, no one who follows the wines of the
southern Rhône Valley needs to be reminded
that 2015 and 2016 are epic vintages across the region, with 2017 close on
their heels. Now, with yet another outstanding vintage, 2018, likely waiting in
the wings, there’s never been a better time to explore this still underrated
(and, happily, in most cases underpriced) appellation, whose wines, at their
best, can rival top-notch Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The Insider’s Southern Rhône
Appellation

Just how under-the-radar is Vacqueyras in the US? I
informally polled over a dozen experienced sommeliers, retailers and collectors
over the last year, and none of them could name more than a few producers who
are based in or are specialists of the appellation. The good news is that they
were able to list a number of Vacqueyras wines made by wineries based in
Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape and, of course, négociant bottlings. Keep
in mind that these are people who could probably rattle off 90% of the
producers of Cornas, Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie and most of the domaines that
work in Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph, not to mention Châteauneuf-du-Pape
and even Gigondas. That’s good news for consumers, as lack of attention tends
to keep prices low, but Vacqueyras and its best producers deserve better, especially
in the 21st century.

The Vacqueyras Style

In Vacqueyras, the inclusion of a high percentage of complementary
varieties generally gives Grenache a bit more up-front structure in the early
going than most other wines in the southern Rhône
Valley. Paradoxically, that structure falls off fairly quickly, typically making
the wines approachable after just a few years in bottle. The wines then tend to hold up well until age 8-10, although
I’ve tasted a number that were drinking admirably as they approached their
second decade of life.

While few examples of Vacqueyras are built for long-term
cellaring, as is the case with many examples from Gigondas and, particularly,
Châteauneuf-du-Pape,
they are definitely not easygoing, drink-on-release wines. Also, not many are
made in the world-beating, flamboyant, large-scale fashion of a number of wines
from neighboring appellations. As such, the best Vacqueyras deliver plenty of satisfaction for
wine lovers who crave a more traditional style of southern Rhône
wine, with generally lower alcohol levels and modest oak influence. They are
also extremely food-friendly, and pair well with strongly seasoned foods as
well as lighter fare, especially poultry, which is often overwhelmed by rich,
full-throttle wines unless the sauce is up for the battle. I especially like
Vacqueyras with mushroom dishes or preparations that involve truffles (when I
can afford them!) as the Mourvèdre and Syrah that’s widely used here
brings a degree of earthiness to the wines. Think pastas and risottos and
you’re on the right path. Full-flavored cheeses are always a great call as
well.

2017’s Compelling Wines: Many for Drinking, Many for
Holding

Two thousand seventeen is shaping up to be an excellent
vintage, if not as epic as 2016 and 2015, which means that the wines are likely
to move slowly through the market and, perhaps, even be discounted as importers
and retailers make way for the already-hyped 2018s. To say that this is a
potential boon for consumers is an understatement.

It was yet another warm year for the region, with drought
conditions and predictably low yields of small berries with relatively thick
skins. Many wines are marked by relatively full body and obvious tannins. On
the other hand, a number of wines, especially the classic bottlings (I hate to call them “entry-level” or “basic”), show an abundance of juicy, forward fruit.
I’m inclined to think that quite a few of the 2017s should be enjoyed on the younger
side while their 2016 and 2015 siblings are resting in the cellar. The top
wines, though, especially those with a Reserve designation, or Vieilles Vignes,
are built to last and even bear some comparison to the ageworthy 2015s.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1582741808655-The+hilly+terrain+of+Vacqueyras+is+surrounded+by+forests+and+local+flora%2C+or+garrigue%2C+typical+of+northen+Provence.png"> The hilly terrain of Vacqueyras is surrounded by forests and local flora, or garrigue, typical of northern&nbsp;Provence. 

2016: Drink or Cellar&nbsp;

As was the case across the southern Rhône, 2016 was a picture-perfect vintage for Vacqueyras. Hotter-than-normal
days but also cooler-than-normal nights helped the fruit preserve acidity. The
wines have always shown exuberant fruit character, and the tannins are so
well-knit that the wines are deceptively forward in character. Their balance,
though, makes them ideal cellaring candidates, and I definitely suggest giving
the best wines another four to six years of bottle age.

2015 Briefly Revisited

Looking back, I am increasingly convinced 2015 is an epic
vintage for Vacqueyras. The wines possess depth, ripeness and structure, along
with an inner core of energy and the tannic structure to see them into a decade
or more of age. A number of 2015s have shut down a bit, so for now, I strongly
advise decanting.

The Promise of 2018

There was not a lot of fruit in 2018, but according to
many producers the small crop was of very high quality. &nbsp;An early look at the wines suggests that they are
powerful but impressively fresh and energetic. That bodes extremely well for
patient (and not-so-patient) wine lovers. I’ll have a much better handle on the
wines after I visit and taste through a broader range in the near future.

Exploring Vacqueyras

For relative newbies who are only familiar with the more
famous southern Rhône appellations, an excellent if not obvious starting
point for exploring Vacqueyras is wines made by high-end producers from
neighboring Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a number of whom
have established a foothold here. I would suggest Domaine Montirius for unoaked
Vacqueyras bottlings that are consistently impressive, as well as Violès-based
Domaine de l’Espigouette, which has long been more famous for its Gigondas than
for their Vacqueyras. Domaine Santa Duc, where young Benjamin Gras is doing
some of the best work in the entire southern Rhône right now, makes a superb
Vacqueyras, as does Domaine la Bouïssiere. Among the standouts in recent
vintages has been Domaine de la Charbonnière, especially their Vieilles
Vignes bottling, and also Famille Perrin, which has been making top-drawer
Vacqueyras for decades now.

On the négociant side, readers are likely to find Vacqueyras wines in worldwide
distribution, usually at quite reasonable prices. Delas Frères
makes an excellent Vacqueyras that sells for a song, while the long-established,
sprawling, Gigondas-based Gabriel Meffre is always a reliable source of high-quality
Vacqueyras, especially the high-end Laurus version. Les Vins de Vienne, which
is based up north in Chavanay, is getting back into the Vacqueyras game as of
the 2017 vintage, and while I haven’t tried it yet, I’ll be surprised if it
isn’t really good, given the estate’s standards and resources.

I tasted most of these wines in Spring 2019 during my
visit to the region, and the others in New York through the early winter of
2019-2020.<hr>You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://www.vinous.com/articles/gigondas-maintains-its-tempo-feb-2020">Gigondas Maintains Its Tempo</a>, Josh Raynolds, February 2020 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-riches-and-richness-of-chateauneuf-du-pape-dec-2019">The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape</a>, Josh Raynolds, December 2019<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vacqueyras-2016-and-2015-value-and-consistency-nov-2018">Vacqueyras 2016 and 2015: Value and Consistency</a>, Josh Raynolds, November 2018<div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/2014-and-2015-vacqueyras-quality-and-value-aug-2017">2014 and 2015 Vacqueyras: Quality and Value</a>, Josh Raynolds, August 2017</div><div><div><div></div></div></div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vacqueyras-excellent-values-from-the-southern-rhone-apr-2016">Vacqueyras: Excellent Values from the Southern Rhône</a>, Josh Raynolds, April 2016 <div><div><div></div></div></div>

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