Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’

BY ERIC GUIDO | FEBRUARY 25, 2021

It’s amazing to consider how much the world has changed in such a short period of time. Suddenly we are all focused on the importance of other people and our relationships with them. Instead of firing off a text or email, we now pick up the phone to hear a human voice on the other side; and with each conversation, we all speak enthusiastically about the days we had face-to-face meetings, tastings, dinners or just a friendly conversation. This train of thought was emphasized during my recent tastings, as numerous wineries sent in samples and offered to taste together over Zoom. I truly believe it is one of many signs, once we can regain some sense of normalcy, that the world has changed for the better in some ways.

My foray into the Veneto or, more specifically, Valpolicella (including the Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto categories) and Soave was filled with many experiences such like this. From the largest estate to the smallest azienda agricola, producers were eager to talk and taste face-to-face. The message that rang loud and clear from the majority of them was that the region has opened its mind to change. Some of that change is welcome, such as the enormous number of producers who no longer wish to rely on residual sugars and the overuse of oak to pump up their Amarone. Also welcome is the focus, in both regions, on creating new cru bottles to showcase special mesoclimates, unique soils or older vines within the great growing area. However, other changes, like the massive wave of producers that are jumping onto the IGT bandwagon to avoid the blending and aging regulations within Valpolicella, seem a bit misguided - but I will address that later. 

Unfortunately, what has not changed is the large amount of bulk wine that is produced in this region, Soave being one of the biggest examples. The same can be said of entry-level Valpolicella, with many wines that are intended to be drunk while enjoying a local trattoria’s fare. It’s a shame, really, because while we can organize a report and tastings around producers we know and trust, in reality our coverage here is just a tiny snapshot from within a colossal category. Which brings up one of the most important points that I can possibly make: the Veneto is really about producers first, and terroir second. Granted, you can say this about many wine-producing regions. Just look at Burgundy’s Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot in the Côte de Nuits, with its 49 hectares and the myriad of producers who make wines from within its walls. Some are revelatory, and others are flat-out forgettable. However, in most regions, this is the exception, not the rule. In Valpolicella and Soave, you have amazing producers and growers within the Classico regions, but many more that are not worth your time, and who rely on winemaking wizardry to dress up inferior fruit or supplying cooperatives without any incentive to produce quality over quantity. On the flip side, when we look to the expanded Valpolicella growing area, even as far east as the borders of Soave itself, we find producers such as Dal Forno, Roccolo Grassi and Pra' making some of the top wines in the region. This is simply reality; and so here, it pays to follow specific producers. 

Inama's Foscarino cru in Soave Classico.

Just Skimming the Surface 

How does one sum up Valpolicella and the multifaceted wines that this region produces? For one thing, it’s safe to say that a wine lover could find every desirable experience possible here, from easy-drinking Valpolicellas, to the richer and more structured Superiores, to the darker and more bitter Ripassos, then the more opulent, sometimes sweet, sometimes savory Amarones, and of course, the decadent Reciotos. Add in the myriad of IGTs, some of which are world-class with their depth, concentration and balance, and you have a little of something for everyone. 

The Dizzying Array of Valpolicella

It all starts with the basic Valpolicella (translated to “valley of many cellars”) and Valpolicella Superiore, which on their own cover many possible styles. The reason for this is that producers have the option to use freshly harvested grapes to make an entry-level wine, late-harvested grapes to add ripeness and richness, partially dried grapes to kick things up another notch, or a cru expression that showcases an individual terroir. Maturation in a winemaker's cellar is also incredibly open-ended, delivering stainless steel or concrete-fermented and minimally aged wines, as well as those matured in wood. The Superiore DOCG dictates at least a year of refinement in the winery prior to release, but the fruit can come from any of the region's unique subzones from west to east of the Classica area, bordered by the Adige River to the west, Valpantena (“valley of the gods”) in the middle of the region and directly north of Verona, and Orientale, which borders Soave to the east. So you can see why randomly buying a bottle of Valpolicella is a bit of a crapshoot. What does remain the same throughout all of the variations is the primary grape (from 45% to 95% of the blend), Corvina, and the larger-berried Corvinone, both of which form the backbone and add the notions of cherry that we love in these wines. Next in the recipe is Rondinella (5% to 30% of the blend), which adds the deeper colors and aromatics. To a lesser extent, and not necessary, is up to 10% Molinara (adding a nice acid twist), Croatina, Negrara or Dindarella.

However, it’s within these rules of blending that many producers feel the most stifled and are swaying toward the IGT designation, the most glaring example being Corvina and Corvinone, which are both widely believed to be a big part of the future for Valpolicella as a region. There was a time when it was the family of Cabernets and Merlot that would be the most talked-about among IGTs, but today it’s the ability to create single-varietal Corvina and Corvinone wines. I can tell you from my own experience that the potential for these wines is very high. They possess all of the raw ingredients, depth, intensity and structure to evolve slowly into something glorious. The challenge is in finding the right mix of terroir and élevage in the cellar. My only worry is, what happens when the best Corvina and Corvinone, which make up the backbone of Valpolicella, Amarone and Recioto, are removed from those blends to make varietal wine? Also, the chances of an IGT going ignored on a retail shelf, versus a branded wine like Amarone, are very high.