Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum

BY ERIC GUIDO | APRIL 25, 2024

Whenever I return to Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a wave of calm immediately sweeps over me. Something about this region and its producers puts me at ease, whether it’s the food, the wine, the people or the architecture. Everyone moves at a steady pace with purpose and pride. Cultures combine between Italian, Austrian and Eastern European in a way that creates a society that holds their heads high, confident and sincere, yet warm and welcoming. This doesn’t quite feel like Italy, especially walking the streets of Gorizia or Trieste. With that in mind, I suppose it makes sense that the wines, just like the cuisine, vary significantly from what consumers might expect.

Hillside Collio vineyards overlooking the town of Cormòns.

The Friulian Conundrum

The past success of Friuli-Venezia Giulia (which I will refer to as FVG going forward) was built on the acclaim the region received many years ago for wines made in a highly international style. The Super Whites and Reds of the region were a massive success in the American market. I recall many rich and stylized Chardonnays and Bordeaux blends from the area that were undoubtedly well-made yet lacked regional character or flair. Some producers, such as Borgo del Tiglio, were able to achieve a perfect blending of both, taking indigenous and international varieties that showed a distinct stamp of terroir. But in the end, the majority of these wines could have come from anywhere in the world. 

Over time, fads changed, as did consumer palates, and in many cases, along with generational shifts, the wines of FVG changed with them. With the exception of a few stalwarts, when visiting the area today, I find it hard to believe that the region ever preferred this high-impact, international style. Yes, it has left its mark, and I often come across heavily oak-inflected blends with a sheen of new wood that can act like human catnip if properly applied. Yet, beneath the surface, these wines lack depth and complexity. The Friulians' preferred style appeals to their palates and the palates of local tourists who regularly travel down from Austria and Germany. Whether blended or mono-varietal, it’s a style that focuses more on indigenous grapes and a combination of stern minerality, acidity and a small dose of residual sugar. This mix throws off many international palates yet has secured export markets to the north and in Asia.  

Most forward-thinking and world-traveling producers realize this is different from current market trends in the West. Instead, FVG producers gear their practices toward the styles of modern-day Burgundy. So, when tasting in FVG, I find a great divide between one portfolio and another. Making it so that when buying a bottle of wine from Friuli, a consumer must now look to the producer before the region itself. This creates confusion over what the world can expect from Friuli and what Friuli can provide to the world.