Veneto: The Land of Opportunity

BY ERIC GUIDO | MARCH 23, 2023

On each trip to Veneto, I discover something new and exciting that inspires me to dig even deeper. This past December, the hills of Colli Berici, east of Soave, proved particularly intriguing. Readers should also explore Colli Euganei and Breganze, areas that produce top dry reds and some of Veneto’s top white dessert wines. Simply put, wine lovers would be remiss not to notice the quality surge taking place across the Veneto.

Looking out across Valpolicella from the high elevations of the Maternigo vineyard of Tedeschi. 

A Constant State of Evolution: Valpolicella

Valpolicella is divided into two main zones. The Classico side is close enough to Lake Garda that its fronts are visible from many vineyards on a clear day. The Classico zone comprises five communes (Negrar, Marano di Valpolicella, Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, Fumane and San Pietro in Cariano) spread over three valleys. The most traditional families, including Quintarelli, Tommaso Bussola, Ca' La Bionda and Brigaldara, are based here. The Fumane Valley is the coolest, with steep elevations and rocky stratified limestone. Moving east, we find the Marano Valley, benefitting from the cooling effects of the Lessini Mountains to the north with soils of basaltic rock. Finally, the Negrar Valley, just southeast of Marano, is rich in clay loam soils and even stronger currants from the same Lessini Mountains to the north. 

Things change drastically just north of Verona, in what is known as the ‘expanded’ portion of Valpolicella. The Valpantena Valley, where the terrain quickly climbs toward the Lessini Mountains. This is a wild and rocky territory with extreme diurnal shifts. Far detached from the Classico zone, within the valleys of Marcellise, Mezzane, Illasi and Cazzano di Tramigna, lie vineyards for the production of Valpolicella and Amarone. These vineyards benefit from a complex mix of rocks and minerals. Many top estates are in these areas, including Marion, Roccolo Grassi and Dal Forno. In the most eastern sections of Valpolicella, the flatlands and their alluvial soils produce Soave, as the two DOCs intersect.

Producers throughout broader Valpolicella continue searching for the next trend that will resonate with wine lovers worldwide. Time has already taught them a few lessons, as the popularity of large-scale, brooding Amarone has become a thing of the past. Many consumers look to sugar as the modern-day dietary enemy and therefore stay away from wines that taste sweet. Moreover, younger generations are entering the market craving wines with lower alcohol and fresher personalities. Not to mention, what cuisine do you pair with an Amarone? Producers are aware of these challenges and are changing how they think about their wines. Today, a push toward lower alcohol and residual sugar results in a style of Amarone that can perform beautifully at the dinner table. 

The barrel aging cellars at Tommasi.