Harnessing the Potential of Soave
BY IAN D’AGATA I JUNE 29, 2017
Thanks to their affordability and their bright, crisp notes of fresh orchard and citrus fruits, white flowers and minerals, the wines of Soave are some of Italy’s most popular whites. The 2014 and 2015 vintages are a study in contrasts, allowing a glimpse of the delightful spectrum of aromas and flavors that Soave offers.
When I think of Soave the first word that comes to mind is “pretty.” The name itself is lovely, recalling “suave” as it rolls off the tongue easily. With its rolling hills, gentle slopes, charming towns, numerous standout restaurants and stately country villas, Soave is pleasing to the eye as well. Not surprisingly, all this prettiness means that the wines have been very popular for a long time, as Soave’s generally light, floral personality is readily understood by novices and experts alike. Of course, these are mostly inexpensive wines, a fact that makes them still easier to like.
Pieropan's La Santa vineyard
Soave is made mainly with Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave, both of which have the potential to turn Soave into something more than just a charming everyday wine. Clearly, one can see the world-class potential of Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave only when tasting the higher-end Soaves made by the region’s top producers. These are usually single-vineyard wines, a small percentage of which are barrel-fermented or aged in oak, as the delicate aromas and flavors of these two varieties can be overwhelmed by wood. So, while the factors that have made Soave a crowd favorite are easy enough to grasp, only a few producers (Pieropan, Inama, Prà, Gini, Filippi, Anselmi) really manage to pull out all the stops in order to make head-turning wines of real concentration and complexity. Most of today’s Soave wines are pleasant everyday quaffers but they could be much more.
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Thanks to their affordability and their bright, crisp notes of fresh orchard and citrus fruits, white flowers and minerals, the wines of Soave are some of Italy’s most popular whites. The 2014 and 2015 vintages are a study in contrasts, allowing a glimpse of the delightful spectrum of aromas and flavors that Soave offers.
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