Verdicchio – Italy’s Killer V

BY ERIC GUIDO | SEPTEMBER 15, 2020

I think we all remember a time when the Italian white on the tip of everyone’s tongue, from the fanciest of restaurants to the coziest of trattorias, was Pinot Grigio. However, so much has changed since then. Granted, it’s taken Italian whites much longer to be seen seriously than it has with Italian reds. This should come as no surprise, given that Trebbiano (and the ocean of varieties that are similarly named or mistaken as Trebbiano) remains the most widely planted grape in the country. 

Fortunately, more and more winemakers are now looking to the indigenous whites of their regions, some of which have been saved from the brink of extinction. These days we talk about the true Trebbiano grape and what it can accomplish in the right hands. We also hear about Carricante, and how it may be Italy’s next great Italian white variety. There is also Fiano, which has already proven its worth over the course of decades.  

However, there is one Italian white grape that I believe has yet to get the full attention it deserves. It’s a variety that can be produced in a young and remarkably fresh style to pair with the warmest of summer days and light cuisine. It’s also capable of producing a much more serious wine with the potential to mature for upwards of a decade. It even succeeds when harvested late, lending textural depths and ripeness that balances wonderfully against the variety’s naturally high acidity. Oak? It can handle that too, while still communicating varietal purity. The fact is, it may be the most versatile of all of Italy’s white grapes.

The grape is, of course, Verdicchio. If you haven’t already delved into its multifaceted expressions - or enjoyed a mature bottle - then you’re missing out. The good news is that it’s not too late to start exploring now, nor will it break the bank. 

Verdicchio’s home is Le Marche, where we find two Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) appellations, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica, along with DOCG Riserva status for wines aged eighteen months prior to release. While it’s also been proven that Verdicchio is the same variety as Trebbiano di Soave, as well as a host of other varietal names throughout the Veneto, it’s in the Marche that producers have been hard at work to bring Verdicchio to the world’s stage. Better farming practices, identifying the best clones to use in the right locations, single-vineyard expressions and modernization within the wineries are just a few of the reasons we’ve witnessed a surge in quality.

The Balciana Vineyard of Sartarelli, where a combination of northeastern exposures and elevation of 300 meters creates cool exposition, allowing the grapes to enjoy an extended growing season and the healthy onset of noble rot.