Treasures of Italy’s Southern Adriatic and Ionian Coasts

BY ERIC GUIDO | JULY 08, 2021

We look to northwest Italy for floral, nuanced reds that mix power with structure and poise. We turn to the northeast for richer, darker wines. In the center, we’re treated to the stimulating acidities, tart cherry-berry fruits and regal structure found throughout the Sangiovese belt. On Italy’s islands, we find a diverse mix of wines, yet all seem to take on a Mediterranean flair. However, it’s only in the south, along the bottom of Italy’s boot, where we find such a harmonious blending of ripeness, richness, power and sheer value. From whites and reds that provide early appeal and a pleasurable experience any night of the week, to wines that boast legendary structures that will carry them over a decade or more, all can be found from the heel to the toe and in between. 

Harvest in the Titolo vineyard of Elena Fucci.

Calabria: The Original Enotria 

While Calabria, the region that forms the sole, instep and toe of Italy’s boot, isn’t as prolific a producer of fine wines as most other regions, there is one DOC that is especially deserving of attention, and that is Cirò. The Cirò classico area is centered around the towns of Cirò and Cirò Marina, the entire growing zone runs down toward the Ionian coast from the foothills of the Sila Mountains. Cirò is produced primarily with the Gaglioppo grape, Calabria’s pride and joy, with its rich dark red fruits and spice, but also grippy tannins that require taming or long-term cellaring. In dryer years, such as 2012 and 2017, these tannins can come across as extremely harsh.

On the warm yet well-ventilated plains of Calabria, closer to the sea, Gaglioppo yields wines that are much easier to understand and might remind readers more of a fruit-forward Pinot Noir, though here it loses its gravitas. Traveling higher into the hills things change drastically, and you find wines of power, depth and longevity. Here the vines fight for survival, stressed for water on the sun-baked hills, yet they are balanced by the coastal influence of two seas and the dramatic diurnal shifts created by the Sila Mountains. The trick is achieving harmonious balance between fruit and tannins, which is best acquired through very gentle macerations and long aging. As an example ‘A Vita ages their Calabria IGT for two years prior to release, and their Cirò Classico and Superiore for three to four years. Unfortunately, not every producer has the resources or even the desire to deliver a more mature and palatable wine upon release, and many consumers are left scratching their heads over the severity often found from a current-vintage bottle. Even when released late, the wines are still structured.

When it comes to white varieties in Calabria, you can look to Greco Bianco (also found in Lazio, but different from the Greco of Campania). Greco Bianco is most often found in the form of Cirò Bianco, where it must make up at least 80% of the blend. To this day, the standard-bearer continues to be Librandi, a large producer that turns out over 200,000 cases of wine each year. I have no doubt that we will begin to see more of Greco Bianco, as many producers in Italy’s south have begun to understand the importance of their white varietals.

The historical “Storico” vineyard of Basilisco, with its eighty-year-old vines, located in Barile.