New Releases from the Marche: Life Beyond Verdicchio?

BY IAN D'AGATA | FEBRUARY 14, 2018 

The baseline quality level of the Marche’s wines is among the highest in Italy, with few truly bad wines these days. There are noteworthy peaks too, including some of Italy’s most ageworthy whites (made with Verdicchio) and unique aromatic reds (from the Lacrima and Vernaccia Nera varieties).

Legend has it that Alaric, King of the Visigoths, had 40 mules carry barrels of Verdicchio wine as he travelled through the Marche region in 410 A.D. on his way to conquering Rome with his well-fueled troops. For that reason alone, I should dislike Verdicchio and its wines; but in fact, I think Verdicchio is one of Italy’s best white grapes, producing one of the rare Italian white wines that can age for ten years or more. But it’s not the only vinous treat the Marche has in store for wine lovers.

Matelica's rugged panorama

Verdicchio, the Marche’s Dominant White Grape 

The Marche is dominated by a single grape variety like few other regions of Italy are: Verdicchio outshines all. There are two major Verdicchio wine denominations to know: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. Despite being made with the same grape, the wines from these two zones could not be more different. In fact, I cannot think of another example in Italy where two different denominations are so fully justified. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, produced in the provinces of Ancona and Macerata, became a DOC in 1968. The Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG was established only in 2010. Verdicchio di Matelica became a DOC one year earlier (in 1967), while the DOCG Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva also dates back to 2010. Verdicchio di Matelica is made in eight municipalities in two provinces: six in the Macerata province (Matelica, Esanatoglia, Gagliole, Castelraimondo, Camerino and Pioraco) and two in Ancona (Cerreto d’Esi and Fabriano).

Of the two Verdicchio denominations, Jesi is by far the larger – 2,150 hectares under vine, versus just 201 for Matelica. But the differences do not stop there. The Jesi denomination is characterized by gently rolling hills and its climate is strongly influenced by the nearby sea, while Matelica is decidedly mountainous and landlocked. Verdicchios from Castelli di Jesi are typically gentle, with aromas and flavors of soft peach, apricot and white flowers most common, while Verdicchios from Matelica tend to be powerful wines that are also steely and white fruit-dominated. The almond descriptor that is commonly applied to Verdicchio wines from both appellations is actually more common in wines made oxidatively, or when they approach maturity (normally, about six to eight years after the vintage, depending on the characteristics of the growing season and the winemaking). While the most famous Verdicchios are dry and still, the variety can be used to make sparkling and sweet wines as well. In fact, about 14 million bottles of sparkling wine are made annually in the Marche (only 1.5 million of which are DOC), mostly from Verdicchio.