Italy’s Ace in the Hole: Marche

BY ERIC GUIDO | OCTOBER 05, 2021

I can say without a doubt that Marche has something for everyone. The region is located along the Adriatic coast of Central Italy, with the spine of the Apennines running down its western border. Through the center, we find the same lines of latitude as Montalcino and Montepulciano. Marche borders Emilia-Romagna to the north, Tuscany and Umbria to the west and Lazio and Abruzzo to the south. As you run along the boundaries of Marche, its foods and wines morph depending on the exact region. Montepulciano (the variety, not the town) tapers off around the capital of Ancona and gives way to the aromatic yet also rich and fruitful Verdicchio grape to the north. Along the Apennines, the terrain becomes rockier, the climate is more like neighboring Umbria, and the cuisine leans toward mountain fare, such as porchetta, a spit-roasted pig stuffed with liver, rosemary, garlic and wild fennel. To the south, Abruzzo’s famed Montepulciano grape makes a big impact; however, what Marche can accomplish with the variety is quite different and more characterful than the plush and easygoing red of its southern neighbor. Through the interior and on the coast, we find one of Italy's most naturally beautiful countrysides, with gentle hills that gradually work their way toward the sea and a climate that balances the cooling effect of numerous river valleys. The limestone-rich soils create a terroir that is favorable to both reds and whites. The Adriatic coast provides cuisine from the sea, from roasted whole Mediterranean fish to some of the best crudo you’ll ever experience. As I said, Marche really does have something for everyone.

The Pagliano vineyard of Borgo Paglianetto.

When in Doubt, Go Red

If there’s one thing that I was the happiest about when conceiving this article, it was the opportunity to give the red varieties a fair shake. Usually when speaking about Marche, most readers think of Verdicchio. Although not yet quite realized, the reds have the potential to be so much more than the wine-drinking world gives them credit for. Like a mirror image of the country's western coastline, Marche enjoys a combination of alpine influences from the mountains, the moderating effects of the rivers running down from the Apennines to the sea, and the maritime effects of the Adriatic. As you approach Monte Conero, or Monte d'Ancona, with elevations that reach up to 575 meters while jutting out toward the sea, you find significantly more complex soils, rich in limestone. This is where you’ll also find the Rosso Conero DOC and its principal grape, Montepulciano, in a location where it finds its most characterful, and potentially important, expression. In fact, as you move further north in Italy, Sangiovese quickly takes center stage. Here, however, the two varieties find great blending partners, with Rosso Conero being made up of a minimum of 85% Montepulciano and no more than 15% Sangiovese. Sounds great, right? The problem is two-fold. For one thing, the Rosso Conero DOC is relatively small, at only 350 hectares under vine. However, what’s worse is the over-use of new oak. While producers are slowly catching on to the fact that these days tastes are leaning more toward varietal character, it’s taking them significantly longer to make changes to the winemaking process. Granted, many of these same producers are capable of making oak-refined Rosso Conero that is harmonious and appealing with both medium and long-term cellaring, yet one can’t help but imagine what might be possible if the wood influence wasn’t there. 

While we’re on the topic of wood-influenced wines that have a lot of potential, Marche producers love to mix varying amounts of international varieties, with or without Montepulciano, to create their answer to the Super-Tuscan category. There’s a lot to like about the best of them – Umani Ronchi’s Pelago, Santa Barbara’s Merlot Mossone and Le Terrazze’s Chaos come to mind – but unfortunately, there are more that come across as clumsy, over-oaked, flabby or flat. The majority of Marche winemakers should stick to the local varieties of the region. 

Conero vineyards of Umani Ronchi.