Marche Stays the Course Amidst Future Uncertainty

BY ERIC GUIDO | MAY 02, 2024

Both growth and evolution are imperative for the success and survival of any species, civilization, individuals and, of course, wine regions. Time goes by without the two of them, and trends, tastes and social scenes change, yet the wine and the people who create it remain the same. Many wine regions have fallen victim to this in the past, yet the successful ones have managed to reinvent and revitalize themselves. As it is now, Marche may be at risk of becoming the former.

Marche produces one of Italy's greatest white wines in the form of Verdicchio. It’s a wine that thrills tasters in its youth yet also has the capacity to mature and gain further complexity and depth in the bottle. It can stand shoulder to shoulder with the best of Italy and, in some cases, the best from around the world. However, I’ve witnessed a tremendous surge in competition for Verdicchio in recent years. I’ve watched Soave reemerge from the ashes, Fiano rejuvenate its reputation and Orvieto make a comeback. The popularity of Trebbiano Abruzzese has exploded. Lugana has gained in popularity, and speculation over the potential of Carricante grows with every passing day. So, where does this leave Verdicchio? Unfortunately, it makes Verdicchio a smaller fish in a bigger pond.

Looking out across the hills of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi.

When I visit or interview winemakers to gain extra insights, I also ask about exciting new regional projects. I commonly walk away with at least a handful of new names to track down. Unfortunately, I didn’t receive any this time in Marche. Verdicchio witnessed a surge of new blood in the early 2000s, which has developed into some of today’s top names, yet little has changed since. Modern-day Marche winemakers like to discuss a new sense of place with the rise of single-vineyard wines. Most can agree that the biggest problem in the region is their own unwillingness to work together. Winemaker Tommaso Chiacchiarini Sartarelli of the Sartarelli Winery said to me, “We producers do not work as a team at all as it happens in many other successful regions, and this penalizes us a lot in the international markets and also in the national one.” Ironically, I received nearly identical quotes from several top producers, making me question why this issue can’t be resolved. I can’t remember the last time an organized Marche- or Verdicchio-themed tasting came up in my itinerary. Beyond relying on the work of publications such as Vinous, education and putting the wines in the hands of consumers are ways to push a region forward. As my interviews revealed, unity, better communication and global reach to new consumers would be a serious step in the right direction. The question is, who’s going to take the lead? 

Verdicchio still represents tremendous value in the market. That stems from its ability to wear many guises. Verdicchio can be an easy-drinking, young wine treasured for its piercing acidity mixed with vividly ripe fruit. Or it can be a later-harvest or single-vineyard wine where the grapes mature slower, communicating more depth and power. Most producers will have a late-harvest (but not sweet) Riserva, often elevated by a healthy onset of noble rot. It can also produce a Metodo Classico (Champagne style) wine, where Verdicchio’s naturally high acidity shines. 

The Sartarelli family maintains an experimental nursery of vines.