Southern Italy: Diamonds in the Rough

BY ERIC GUIDO | JULY 13, 2023

After nearly two decades of tasting through numerous wines across all of Southern Italy, I still struggle to write that these producers have come a long way, creating high-quality wines that represent fantastic value. Across the world, I’ve watched technology and the ease of sharing knowledge change the face of wine. I’ve heard many times from producers throughout regions of both Italy and the United States that today, it’s easy to make a good wine, just difficult to make a great one. When considering this and the rise in the quality we have all witnessed around the globe, I must question: Why does Southern Italy still lag? And, yes, I’m excluding Sicily and Campania, which I review separately. Don’t get me wrong, there are many great producers in this report worth hunting for, collecting and cellaring for decades, yet they are in the minority.

My Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia, Lazio and Molise tastings are littered with overripe, over-oaked, rustic and even dirty wines. I’ve only seen a general rise in quality, organization between producers and a desire to do better in Basilicata. Some might argue that these other regions lack an icon, which is a valid point. Basilicata has the dynamic Elena Fucci, who not only sheds light on Vulture and shows the world what it is capable of but also works to band producers together and communicate progress. But who will become an icon in Calabria, Puglia, Lazio and Molise? In these regions, a handful of high-quality wines, the “diamonds in the rough”, are wildly impressive amongst a sea of mediocrity.

A snowy Maschito vineyard not long after harvest.

What Is Holding Them Back?

A big part of the problem is motivation and willingness to grow. If great wine can be produced in the most brutal environments, the poorest soils and the most drought-stricken locations, why not here? Are the producers of Italy’s south traveling the world to observe and learn from winemaking icons? I’ve witnessed this throughout much of Italy as younger generations pick up the torch, yet I seldom hear about it in conversations with southern producers. Is the word “tradition” used to excuse antiquated and rustic winemaking? I’ve certainly been in my fair share of “traditional” cellars where the noxious odors verge on the nauseating scents evocative of the passing of life. Is there an organizing body, such as a Consorzio, that not only passes legislation and upholds the rules of the DOC or DOCG but also markets and helps to organize the producers of the region? The fact that this article covers just over two hundred wines is a perfect example of how marketing and organization are necessary. Receiving just 200 wines between Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia, Lazio and Molise was disappointing after reaching out to importers and producers, often more than once. Many emails went unanswered, many wines arrived without any information or contact to reach out to, and many were lost in the system of shipping and customs without any recourse. Ultimately, it’s up to the producers to push for such changes.

That starts with education, travel, tasting the world's most outstanding wines, trying to understand them better and not settling for the status quo. Just as important, though, for producers is understanding that no matter how many generations have made wine in the past, nothing will ever change without striving to do better. If that does not happen, Southern Italy will continue to crawl instead of walk. 

Basilicata: Nowhere To Go But Up

Of all the regions of Southern Italy, Basilicata, propelled forward by the producers of Vulture, has continued to improve by leaps and bounds. Just ten years ago, this wasn’t so. Like many wines of the south, these were over-stylized, oak-inflected, high-alcohol wines with big burly tannins. Often producers would practice appassimento in an attempt to tame the tannins, but in the end, the problem was not the inherent qualities of the grapes but the poor practices in the vineyards and the cellars. Today, the wines are nearly unrecognizable from those of the past. The importance of terroir and purity of Aglianico (their principal grape) is first and foremost on most producers' minds.

Basilicata lacks an organizing Consorzio that can better communicate and market its producers to the world. Last year's article, “Basilicata: Vulture’s Rise from the Ashes”, which I would suggest to anyone interested in a deep dive into the region, was only possible because of the combined efforts of several winemakers. However, this year's report shows the continuing problem: most producers are forced to ship wines independently to be included in this report. Often without the help of an importer, which many wineries don’t currently have, these packages are lost or sit stagnant in customs. With such a small representation of producers, the decision was made to include Basilicata, once again, within the larger Southern Italy report. It’s a horrible shame because Vulture has proven its worth over time, and nothing would make me happier than seeing more of these wines in international markets. Readers will find a selection of genuinely outstanding Aglianicos in the accompanying notes that can easily compete with the best of Campania. It’s only so long before the rest of the world catches on.