Tipping the Scales: New Releases from Umbria

BY ERIC GUIDO | OCTOBER 05, 2023

Umbrian wines continue to surprise as producers work to find equilibrium despite climate change and past stereotypes. I no longer have to sort through dozens of dark and overly tannic Sagrantinos to find one that is balanced. Moreover, the Montefalco Rosso category continues to improve, delivering a style unique to Umbria while providing fantastic value for consumers. Last but not least, a white wine revolution is taking place around Montefalco, providing an alternative to the highly variable Orvietos from Umbria's southwestern tip. Speaking of Orvieto, it can’t just be ignored. Aside from large production wineries, there is a core of high-quality, artisanal producers pushing the envelope. They are Orvieto’s hope for the future.

Castello della Sala's Chardonnay vineyards were planted in 1996.

Unlike Any Other

Landlocked Umbria must be seen to be believed. The unique terroir mostly contributes to its diversity amongst other Italian wine regions. Here, the spine of the Apennine Mountains splits in two, creating a large valley that engulfs Umbria's major towns, cities and vineyards. Any direction a visitor looks to from Montefalco will bear a picturesque landscape of hill-top towns with mountains in their backdrop. Soils are rich in clay with a blend of sand and limestone, giving way to clay-calcrete, an almost-cement-like blend of clay, gravel, sand and silt at higher elevations. This mix was created three million years ago when a large inland sea covered the entire valley. Today, Lake Trasimeno, in the region's northwest, is all that remains of that sea.

While extremely hot by day, Umbria occasionally experiences some of the strangest precipitation I’ve ever seen. A seamlessly cloudless sky will shed large dollop-size drops of water that last for moments, only to dry up and rapidly bring a refreshing breeze. These same breezes, generated by the change of pressure as warm air masses rise, contribute to the region’s nighttime cooling and extend the growing season, which is crucial in reaching physiological ripeness.

Few regions in Italy achieve such a balance of high-quality restaurants, shopping, welcoming locals and ease of accessibility. While Montefalco can be traversed by car, walking and taking in the regional flavor is best. The cuisine here mixes a little from each of its neighbors (Marche, Abruzzo, Tuscany and Lazio). I don’t find the same “tourist trap” feel often associated with some of Italy’s other top wine-producing towns. It isn’t rare to see the village square alight with a combination of tourists and locals, all sitting around watching groups of kids playing football (soccer to Americans) while enjoying drinks and chatting quietly amongst themselves. There is something magical and heartwarming about being there.

What’s more, the local Consorzio has prioritized wine tourism. With a local office that’s easily accessible and discernable, there are guided bike tours through vineyards, producer tastings, and clearly marked signs that help visitors locate their favorite wineries. For wine and food lovers, this is a region worth visiting.

Fongoli's historic cellar.