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Barberani

The Barberani estate puts the potential of Orvieto into perspective. I stood at the front of the winery and gazed across their 60 hectares of hillside vineyards, with the massive Lake Corbara less than a kilometer away. A steady cooling breeze gently flowed through the trees and vines, offsetting the warmth of that sunny afternoon in July. As I toured the vineyards, many 30 years and older, it was easy to see the distinct changes in soil from one plot to the next. After witnessing such terroir, one can’t help but wonder why there aren’t more producers in Orvieto crafting wines like these. Of course, people are also an essential part of the terroir. That’s where brothers Bernardo and Niccolò Barberani come in. Despite market trends, they are the driving force that has never allowed quality to dip. Instead, they decided to take a more experimental approach, all while respecting the traditions created by their father and mother, Luigi and Giovanna Barberani. This portfolio has something for everyone, from the Orvieto Classico Superiore Luigi e Giovanna to the sweet Muffa Nobile Calcaia and old-vine Polvento Sangiovese. Readers will even find some rare Riesling and Pinot Noir. As for the vintages I recently tasted, the newly minted 2022s are ripe and supple but with stimulating acidity despite the dry warmth of the year. The 2021 whites are complex, intense and balanced for a long and steady maturation. The 2020s are harmonious yet show the warmth of the vintage through their flamboyant fruit. That said, they don’t come across as clumsy or cloying.

From Tipping the Scales: New Releases from Umbria (Oct 2023) by Eric Guido

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2022 Grechetto

Release Price: $18

Color: White

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