Abruzzo: Trials and Tribulations

BY ERIC GUIDO | SEPTEMBER 26, 2024

Abruzzo winemakers have faced myriad challenges in recent years without ever giving up. Notwithstanding the near loss of entire vintages, they are determined to overcome all the curve balls Mother Nature throws at them. These are resilient producers who, in the end, will outwit the climate changes by rethinking vineyard management, winemaking processes and even their choice of varieties.

The Case Pepe vineyard in Teramo during the drought of 2024.

Going back over two decades, Abruzzo’s claim to fame was value. Consumers realized that for a $15-$20 bottle of red wine, they could look no further than Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. This same value still exists today. With Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Pecorino, readers can easily find Montepulciano that over-delivers, by the glass in restaurants. These wines fill a niche that few other regions in Italy can match. In comparison, today’s Chianti Classico prices have escalated much faster.

While this perception remains, what has changed is Abruzzo's place in the hierarchy of fine wines from Italy. At a conference a few months ago, I was asked what the next up-and-coming region is from the boot. Without hesitation, I responded, Abruzzo. There is a serious uptick in quality across the board, and many winemakers are pushing the envelope much further than ever before. There was a time when Valentini and Emidio Pepe were considered the only significant names internationally. Undoubtedly, they were the only wineries that could command higher prices and consistently display the ability of their wines to mature positively over decades. That has changed quite a bit. Emidio Pepe remains at the apex of the scale, and through the progressive and insightful work of Chiara de Iulis Pepe, the estate may surpass the heights reached in past vintages. Today, Tiberio, Praesidium, de Fermo, La Valentina, Torre dei Beati, Terraviva, Amorotti and Cingilia are also part of that group. Each of them continues to produce wines in the value category, which keeps Abruzzo viable in many markets. They also have bottlings that can command a well-deserved premium. Now is the time to explore both Montepulciano and Trebbiano from Abruzzo. Both varieties communicate a sense of place, are vintage-sensitive and can age remarkably well. 

A 3D map depicting the mountainous interior of Abruzzo.

Where and What to Expect

Understanding Abruzzo’s geography is essential. While the territory seems straightforward at first glance, it’s significantly more complex than expected. L'Aquila’s mountainous interior is the largest Abruzzo subregion, running north to south on higher elevations along the Maiella massif and the Apennines' foothills. Due to the rugged terrain, this is the least populated area. Within L'Aquila province, near the border with Pescara, lies the village of Ofena, made known by Cataldi Madonna and considered Abruzzo’s oven. As you move east, the valley opens up to the rolling hills of Pescara, drastically changing the geography and encompassing various climates, from the Maiella massif to the Adriatic Sea. Here, the city's western parts are impacted by cooling air currents descending from the higher ranges to the west. These conditions, combined with the limestone-rich soils offer clear potential. While towns such as Loreto Aprutino and Cugnoli are hotbeds of activity and benefit from the mountains' influence, elevations decline to the east, and the climate becomes more Mediterranean. 

From Pescara, moving southwest, the clay-rich flatlands of Chieti are Abruzzo's most significant production zone. While the thirty-two active cooperatives in the area source a large amount of fruit from these vineyards, the province also hosts several well-established properties, such as Masciarelli, Torre Zambra and Tenuta I Fauri. However, from the viewpoint of these wineries, it becomes evident that these are not just flatlands. Here, the region features gently rolling hillsides and thick, lush forests that create a diverse mix of terroir in various locations. One of these areas is the Villamagna DOC (only 85 hectares under vine), established in 2011 by a small group of producers who wanted to differentiate themselves from the broader Chieti region. Under the Villamagna DOC, producers lost the right to use the name Montepulciano on the label, which is unfortunate as many consumers today look for variety before a region or brand.