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De Fermo

Stefano Papetti Ceroni of De Fermo practices strict adherence to biodynamics, biodiversity and low intervention. The past few years have proven extremely difficult, and Papetti Ceroni is concerned about the future. The current releases certainly show the winery's commitment to high-quality production in recent years, at the expense of quantity and through the work of the vineyard team. Stefano Papetti Ceroni explains, “Two thousand twenty-three was a tough year, not for the 20% loss in production from peronospora, but from the frost in April, which heavily impacted the white varieties. Overall, yields are down 40% on the white wines, but with a good balance of acidity.” He adds, “The last real snow I have seen here was five years ago; it lasted for a day and then was gone.” In 2024, at the time of my visit, the region had received less than 50% of its average rainfall. Considering there is no irrigation here, drought is again taking its toll. With all that said, despite the hardships, the 2023s are special. Savory and minerally intense, they show an elevated spike in acidity. From a cooler vintage, the 2020 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Prologo is the result of a low-intervention approach. It offers high quality, complexity and staying power.

From Abruzzo: Trials and Tribulations (Sep 2024) by Eric Guido

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2023 Chardonnay Launegild

Release Price: $42

Color: White

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