Campania:
Forgotten Realms

BY ERIC GUIDO | MAY 07, 2020As a child, I took solace in reading and immersing myself in
fantasy novels. Reading about ancient cities and cultures, giant fortresses,
marble statues, and great walls, sometimes formed by mountains or built by man.
These books would often be filled with beautifully illustrated maps depicting
haunted forests, troll lairs, enchanted lakes, and ancient castles. Over time,
this led to a fascination with the reality of ancient cultures, as I delved
into the histories of the Greeks and Romans, studying their heroes and
mythologies. It wasn’t long before I found my way to stories about volcanos
enveloping entire cities and cultures overnight. The histories of these ancient
lands became as interesting to me as any fantasy novel, and they are my fondest
memories of childhood and adolescent life.

So, you can imagine that when the wine bug bit me and Italy
became my passion, my exploration of Campania was immediately one of the most
thrilling chapters of my journey to understanding Italian wine. Here I was,
once again reading about these same ancient cultures, but this time with a new
dynamic to thrill me, that being the myriad of grape varieties and viticulture
ways of these civilizations. The best part was that the majority of producers
in the region were just as excited about exploring, honoring, and in some
cases, attempting to recreate the wines and ways of this ancient world. It also
didn’t hurt that modern-day Campania already had a lot to offer.&nbsp;

It was with this in mind that I decided that my first piece
on Campania at Vinous would be less focused on the newest vintages, which may
not even be arriving at retail stores for some time, but instead focus on the
wines that are in the market right now. You see, that’s another feature of
Campania: the vintage releases are different for every producer. So, while one
might be releasing their Taurasi from 2016, another is just sending out their
2014, or even older. This provides consumers with the ability to pick wines
based on vintage, producer or sub-region.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1588865059371-20200317_154528.jpg"> 

It is unfortunate that many readers haven’t had the
opportunity to properly explore those sub-regions. It also doesn’t help that
Taurasi, one of Campania’s most popular DOCGs, has seen turbulent ups and
downs, even in the cantinas of some of the region’s most highly regarded
producers. The “Barolo of The South”, as it’s been marketed, has been plagued
by lazy winemaking practices, dirty cellar conditions, and producers that have
masked Aglianico's varietal characteristics under a dark sheen of new wood. The
good news is that conditions have drastically improved, and wine lovers who
have been paying attention have a source of well-priced, world-class wines with
remarkable aging potential.

To dive a little deeper, and staying focused for now on the
reds, it’s also important to note that Aglianico doesn’t begin and end with
Taurasi. A savvy lover of wines from Campania will find other expressions to
equal its power and prestige with just a little exploration. On the coast near
Mount Massico, with its purely volcanic soils, we can find potent yet
less tannic expressions of Aglianico, as well as focus on another of Campania’s
great varietals, Piedirosso. In Taburno, with its high elevations and a
mix of volcanic and calcareous soils and high content of limestone, we witness
the same tannic power of Taurasi, but in a bigger and brawnier expression. Then
there’s Salerno and Cilento to the south, a hotspot for Aglianico
which seems to capture all of its best qualities, yet fruitier and fleshier,
which doesn’t mean fruit-forward. Lastly, the wild, steep elevations of the Ischia
island, where cable cars are used to move harvested grapes from mountainside vineyards. Here the
combination of old vines, volcanic soils and the influence of the Tyrrhenian
Sea, create wines with dark, textural depths, yet also tension and poise. In
other words, if Taurasi is your only “Barolo of The South”, then you’re missing
out. When we add the recently revived varieties of Casavecchia and Pallagrello
Nero to the mix - and trust me, you want to be paying attention to these
obscure wines - then what you have is a paradise for red wine lovers, just
waiting to be discovered.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1588865089930-20200317_154207.jpg"> 

What About Fiano, Greco and Falanghina?

As for the white varietals of Campania, they run the gamut
from vibrant, spicy, and intense to plush, weighty, and full of depth. You can
find new vintages that thrive on crisp acids and freshness, yet still bring
remarkable character to the table. Meanwhile there are the later-release wines,
which are sometimes wood-influenced, yet often with so much balance and
complexity that it pays to give them more time to evolve prior to release. That’s
right, many of Campania’s white varieties will not only excel at the dinner
table tonight, but also with cellaring for many years. It is difficult to
accept that a fruit-forward, young Fiano will also mature into something
more complex, yet when that fruit is coupled with a balance of acidity and structure,
the wines can often improve with time. Granted,
these aren’t like the austere whites of some regions, which beg for more time
to unwind. Instead, they are upfront, in your face, full of life and ready to
please.

Falanghina, found mostly nearer to the coast, is often zesty
and saline, as if infused with sea air but balanced through textural depth and
primary fruit. They are fun, tactile wines of precision which speak of the
Mediterranean climate they excel in. Looking to Fiano and its prime location,
the hilly woodlands of Avellino, with elevations of 1,800 feet and higher, we
find a more continental climate and wines that provide a rich and pleasurable
experience from start to finish. Fiano dazzles with its ripe fruit on the nose,
then soothes the palate with richness, and finally excites the senses through
vibrant acids. It may be one of Italy’s greatest white varietals; it’s just
that most people don’t know it yet. As for Greco and the volcanic Tufo (or
Tufa) soils it excels in, it’s a wine that belongs on everyone’s list of summer
sippers. I kid you not when I say that there are some days that I literally
crave a Greco di Tufo for their blend of wild energy, citrus-infused
minerality and substantial fruit.

When you take this all into consideration, it becomes
apparent that Campania has far more to offer than most consumers realize,
providing a worthy exploration for the wine lover, the collector, the speculator
and even that grown-up kid who wants to explore forgotten realms.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1588865124052-20200317_154401.jpg"> 

A Bit About Recent Vintages

Lastly, since we’re talking about both red and white
varieties, I thought it prudent to focus a little on the most recent vintages
hitting the market.

The 2019 vintage will be exciting to follow. The year
started with a mild and dry winter and early spring. By May, unseasonably cold
weather descended on the region, as well as abundant amounts of rain, raising
water reserves, but also causing delayed flowering and the threat of vine
disease. Temperatures rose above average throughout July and August, allowing
the vegetative process to catch up, as vines used built-up water reserves to
remain healthy. However, the saving grace of 2019 was the months of September
and October, where sunny, warm days were contrasted by cool evening
temperatures. On average, harvests were delayed by eight to ten days, starting
in the first days of October for white grapes, yet the fruit achieved perfect phenolic
ripeness and balance. Expect the white varieties to show forward fruit, yet with sapidity and depth on the
palate. As for the later ripening red varieties, expectations are high due to the balanced autumn
weather which allowed for an extended harvest of perfectly healthy fruit. These
conditions should produce reds of complexity, elegance and the balance to
mature for decades. In fact, Luigi Moio of Quintodecimo explained that he believes
2019 to be “the best of the last five vintages” for both red and white varieties.
But only time will tell.

The abundant 2018 vintage is ready to please. The
winter was mild, with a large amount of rain that continued throughout the
spring. However, June brought warm and sunny days, which regulated flowering
and fruit set, yet also increased yields on the vines. While July was warm and
especially dry, August was marked by much-needed rains that regulated
temperatures. Vineyard management was challenging, and selection of proper
bunches was key because of vigorous development and maturation of fruit
without any stress to reduce yields. Conditions leveled out through the fall,
with harvest beginning in the final weeks of September for the white varieties
and lasting until late November for Aglianico at higher elevations. From my
tastings, the white varieties, those being Greco, Falanghina and Fiano, all
show an upfront appeal, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Only a few examples
of Aglianico have made it into the market at this time, but from what I did
taste, I found them to be fresh, lifted and pretty.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1588865146312-20200320_102624.jpg"> 

In general, 2017 was warm and extremely dry, yet the
year started out quite the opposite with an intensely cold winter and a number
of large snowfalls. However, spring brought much warmer temperatures and very
little rain. While this cut down on the risk of disease, the drought conditions
also reduced yields. The region then suffered through one of the hottest
summers in over a decade, which stressed the vines and slowed maturation. The
vintage could have been a disaster, if not for water reserves that had built up from
winter snowfalls. Ultimately, harvest took place on time for both red and white
varieties. While both Fiano and Falanghina please on their textural presence
and upfront fruit, there’s a lack of depth to be found. The reds are
larger-scaled wines, but in many cases, I find the balance likely suited to
medium-term cellaring. It will be interesting to see how the bigger wines
perform when they begin to enter the market.

On the flipside, 2016 is shaping up to be a very
pretty and balanced vintage. May through June brought abundant rainfall,
resulting in disease within the vineyards, which lowered yields, coupled with a
late spring frost during the flowering process. Weather regulated in July,
leading into a warm, sunny, and breezy August and September. This, combined
with an ideal swing of warm days and cool nights, allowed vines to mature
properly. However, overall, yields were down drastically. The results are a set
of elegant, cool-toned reds with balanced structures and some very alluring
Fianos that are geared for the cellar. While there aren’t any blockbusters to
be found, it will be an extremely exciting vintage to follow. In fact, when
speaking with Piero Mastroberardino, he described 2016 as a vintage that was
“difficult for the viticulturist, but an excellent expression of terroir.”

Then there’s the powerful and warm 2015 vintage. This
was another drought year, yet water reserves were high from rains throughout
the cold winter months. Spring continued with lower-than-average temperatures,
leading to a late bud break yet a healthy flowering. However, the season was
complicated by unrelenting heat in June and July, as vines were forced to
depend on stored-up water reserves to avoid stress. Nevertheless, maturity was
still slowed. August into September brought some much needed and timely
rainfall, which helped restore the ripening process. Although the season
leveled out through harvest time, the results were still large-scaled, powerful
reds. That said, I did find quite a bit to like from these wines, and while I
believe the 2016s will likely outclass them over time, the 2015s have a lot to
offer through medium-term cellaring.&nbsp;

The wet and cool 2014 vintage was one of the happy
surprises from my tastings. Although vines suffered from disease and uneven
flowering because of abundant rain and cooler-than-average temperatures throughout the spring,
August through September brought much better conditions. The region also
enjoyed dryer weather and healthy variations between day and nighttime
temperatures throughout the fall. As a result, harvests took place as many as
ten days later than usual. I found the 2014s to be cool-toned and very pretty
wines, some of which can already be enjoyed for their gorgeous aromatics and
brisk acids, yet there’s also a structure beneath it all that will allow for
medium-term cellaring. Don’t
disregard the 2014s, as a number of producers also alluded to it being a
sleeper vintage, meaning that they have early accessibility, yet should
also mature over in the cellar for a number of years.&nbsp;

All wines for this article were tasted between February and
April in New York City.<hr>You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/2015-brunello-di-montalcino-the-vintage-we-have-been-waiting-for-apr-2020">2015 Brunello di Montalcino: The Vintage We Have Been Waiting For?</a>, Eric Guido, April 2020 <a target="_blank" href="https://www.vinous.com/articles/campania-2018-early-appeal-and-accessibility-nov-2019">Campania 2018: Early Appeal And Accessibility</a>, Ian D'Agata, November 2019 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/campania-more-than-just-fiano-greco-and-aglianico-nov-2018">Campania: More Than Just Fiano, Greco and Aglianico</a>, Ian D'Agata, November 2018 <div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-wines-of-campania-getting-better-and-better-nov-2016">The Wines of Campania: Getting Better and Better</a>, Ian D'Agata, November, 2016</div>

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social