Umbria & Lazio: Italy’s Underdogs 

BY ERIC GUIDO | AUGUST 19, 2021

From a geographical and varietal point of view, Umbria and Lazio make strange bedfellows, yet they share one thing that keeps them grouped together in my mind: they are the two Italian regions that receive significantly less credit than they deserve. When we think of Umbria, there are only two or three producers that most consumers can recall. In addition, Sagrantino, the red grape Umbria is known for, tends to intimidate people because of its imposing structure. 

As for Lazio, I doubt the average wine lover can name even a single local variety. However, the work that producers are doing with Cesanese is absolutely worth paying attention to. When it comes to value, both regions offer that in spades. There’s a newfound energy here, higher-quality winemaking, and a focus on terroir that I’ve never witnessed before in either Umbria or Lazio. It’s only so long until word gets out. Frankly, these are two of the most exciting winemaking regions in Italy today. 

The Tabarrini vineyards in Umbria.

Umbria: Beyond the Expected

The landlocked region of Umbria and its winemakers are surrounded by some pretty serious competition. With Tuscany to the northwest, Marche to the northeast, Lazio to the southwest and Abruzzo extremely close in the southeast, Umbria has to compete with the ever-popular Sangiovese, Aglianico and Montepulciano grapes found throughout those neighboring regions.

When it comes to wine, Orvieto and Montefalco Sagrantino remain the two principal categories, but the region has a lot more to offer than most people realize. For one thing, Umbria has taken production of Sangiovese-based Rossos to a new level. These wines are most often blended with a dollop of Sagrantino to add a bit of regional character, or with Montepulciano, another Italian favorite. Paolo Bea’s San Valentino and Riserva Pipparello will make you a believer in this blend. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot occasionally appear in certain Rossos as well, yet I’m happy to say that the percentage of international varieties has been in decline. In a few cases, I’ve even witnessed some Barbera being added to the mix by producers like Tabarrini and Plani Arche, really adding a spicy kick to these vibrant reds. While world-class, 100% Sangioveses are still far from common here, I have the impression that their day will come. Another fun addition to the red varietal wines of Umbria is Ciliegiolo, a grape that is most often seen in Tuscany’s Maremma. However, there are producers in Umbria, like Leonardo Bussoletti, who are convinced that Ciliegiolo deserves its own spotlight. From my tastings, the results seem pretty promising. White varieties, such as Trebbiano Spoletino, Grechetto di Todi and Grechetto di Orvieto are now receiving more attention by a larger number of winemakers. Umbria is exploding with exciting new wines, and even the producers that are steeped in the classics of Orvieto and Montefalco are happily experimenting outside their comfort zones.

Circling back to Orvieto, the denomination is shared between both regions, the Classico zone, is entirely located in Umbria, but wineries in a small northeastern segment of Lazio are also able to use the DOC. Only a small representation of producers made it into this report; however, those that did are turning out something really special. Orvieto may be one of Umbria’s best-known categories, but due to overproduction, low-quality standards and the overuse of international varieties, the wines have simply lost favor with wine buyers. The good news is that a small number of winemakers in the region are determined to show that, in the right hands, and with a focus on regional varieties, Orvieto deserves more attention. Good examples are balanced, plush and jovial expressions, often blending Grechetto, Procanico, Verdello and Malvasia; although you will still find Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier sparingly mixed in by some wineries. Producers like Palazzone, Decugnano dei Barbi and Antinori’s Castello della Sala all had strong showings, as did Barberani, who believes very deeply in the importance of Grechetto and produces an Orvieto that is not only excellent upon release, but also has the potential to improve with cellaring. Lastly, I would be remiss not to mention the region's ability to attain a healthy onset of noble rot (Botrytis cinerea) due to its proximity to Lake Corbara, as well as the Tiber and Paglia rivers. It’s because of this that these same producers excel with their dessert wines.

There's a lot more to Umbria Rossos than just Sagrantino.