Unveiling the Diverse Palette of Sicily: New Releases and Beyond

BY ERIC GUIDO | JUNE 20, 2024

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I can’t help but be amazed by the ongoing increase in the quality of the wines of Sicily. Modern-day logic states that it's easy to make technically correct wine and that producers should frankly not release something faulty or disinteresting. Of course, there is a world of difference between a wine that meets the parameters and quality markers that equate to “good” versus one that takes things to another level, communicating a sense of place, tradition and the passion of the people who make it. The latter is Sicily’s specialty. I believe part of this quality surge derives from a sense of pride deeply ingrained in everyone I meet within the industry, from field hand to agronomist to winemaker. Yet it goes even deeper than that, as even an everyday passerby on the streets of Palermo will offer up their opinionated views on the region, its history and just how important their place is in the canon of Italian wine. 

Sicily's surprisingly mountainous landscape.

Out of all the tastings I conduct each year, I’d be hard-pressed to find any with such variety and pleasure as Sicily. Sicilian wine is inherently Sicilian in every way imaginable despite the island's size and dramatic climatic differences. These wines are energetic and spicy, often flamboyant and unapologetically sun-kissed in nature, yet possess a vibrant, acidic core that keeps us returning to the glass for more. They range from the most lovable Tuesday night pizza wines to the most distinguished and serious long-term agers. 

The diverse terroir of Sicily offers further depths to explore. It’s mountainous, far more so than most consumers realize. The island remains seemingly untouched by the modern world, with thick outcroppings of forests and a natural biodiversity that has thrived throughout millennia. Only in the west, around the cities of Marsala and Menfi, do those mountains taper off to lower elevations that run along the coast. Vines thrive in sandy soils there, with warming air currents blowing up from the African continent. One could leave the city of Palermo on a 55-degree Fahrenheit day and find conditions 15 degrees warmer after just an hour's drive south to Menfi. The volcanic satellite islands of Pantelleria, Salina, Lipari and Vulcano all add flavor to the Sicilian wine scene, presenting unique examples heavily influenced by the surrounding seas. Then there is Mount Etna, which has high elevations, where the Nebrodi and Peloritani Mountains cool the north slopes. In contrast, the south slopes enjoy southern exposures and Mediterranean effects from the Adriatic Sea. 

Due to the diversity of Sicily, nearly any grape can find an ideal terroir to thrive. The all-encompassing category of Sicilia DOC allows the island's wineries to feature indigenous and international varieties in a wide range of styles, which is perfect for the curious wine lover. Fruity yet energetic Catarratto, Grillo, Perricone and Zibibbo are abundant, yet each can obtain a level of seriousness in the hands of the right winemaker. The same can be said for Frappato, which I’ve come to consider Sicily’s Beaujolais. I am constantly surprised as efforts from the extreme south make their way to the tasting table. When blended with Nero d’Avola (now we’re talking about inherently serious wine), the two varieties work in concert to create Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a DOCG that’s captured my interest yet sadly doesn’t receive anywhere near the level of attention it deserves from consumers. On the topic of under the radar, Nero d’Avola’s ability to mature beautifully over time and communicate a distinct sense of place has never been as evident as it is today. Each year, I see new projects demonstrating how special Nero d’Avola can be when vinified using more transparent techniques. Additionally, the Etna varieties, Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Carricante, are paving the way for the region's future. For lovers of international varieties, Sicily has readers covered with a wide range of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay and many more that prove their worth vintage after vintage. 

Sadly, Sicily's biggest challenge is one of its best attributes: there are so many varieties and styles to choose from that it can take a lot of work for consumers to know where to start. But with that said, it’s also hard to go wrong. Several long-standing producers, like Tasca d'Almerita, Planeta and Donnafugata, have set up multiple wineries, with their team and specialty, to create portfolios that touch upon all Sicily has to offer. Getting lost in the lineup of any of these names would give wine lovers weeks, if not months, of pleasurable drinking experiences. What’s more, each of them maintains a fantastic level of quality despite their size. Speaking of quality, I’ve seen the most forward momentum in a short time from small, family-run operations. The days of overly rustic, nearly sweet and often forgettable wines are behind us. It’s a perfect time to explore Sicilian wine.

These fiberglass tanks are refining new vintages at the Frank Cornelissen winery.