Emilia-Romagna: Chomping at the Bit

BY ERIC GUIDO | MAY 20, 2025

It has to happen. It can only be so long before efforts yield results and perceptions change—so long before the research into soils, clones and farming carried out by a dedicated group of forward-thinking winemakers starts to pay off—so long before the mapping and establishment of UGAs and the wave of modernization that has swept through the region is noticed. Emilia-Romagna is poised to take a prominent place on the world stage, but will consumers embrace these unique Sangioveses and deep, complex Lambruscos? Only time will tell, but I know for sure that readers willing to take the plunge and experiment will be drinking very well. 

A Sangiovese Like No Other

Sangiovese in Romagna has a distinctive character that sets it apart from the more familiar Sangioveses found throughout Tuscany. This has been a double-edged sword for the region. It has only been in the last 10 to 15 years that the combination of climate change with an influx of progressive winemakers has begun to yield wines that impress international palates. With that said, the history of Sangiovese in Romagna goes as far, if not further back, than their neighbors in Tuscany (this point is often argued between the two regions). However, the woodsy, often herbal character and rounder fruit profile of Romagna Sangiovese—the result of Emilia-Romagna’s terroir and an array of different clones—usually renders it unidentifiable to an untrained or inexperienced palate. Romagna Sangiovese (or Sangioveto dal Cannello Piccolo, which originated in Predappio) is distinguished by its smaller bunches and berries, thicker skins and dark, almost black color.

An eclectic mix of Emilia-Romagna Sangiovese.

Francesco Bordini, winemaker at Villa Papiano and consultant for the highly regarded wines of Ronchi di Castelluccio and Mutiliana in the subzone of Modigliana, offered, “Through most of the 1990s, consultants and winemakers were treating Romagna Sangiovese the same as Sangiovese from Tuscany, using more extraction and extended time in small barrels. It was only when we realized that our Sangiovese required a softer touch that we were able to make better wines.” His words rang true as I tasted through the Ronchi di Castelluccio portfolio. This is the most historic estate in Modigliana, with wines from the 1970s that are still drinking beautifully today. However, the wines made in the 1990s and 2000s bear overt wood inflections and unbalanced tannins. At that time, famed oenologist Vittorio Fiore made the wines using the experience he gained and techniques he practiced in Tuscany. The wines were often flashy upon release but have not matured evenly. Sadly, many other wineries in Emilia-Romagna still use those heavy-handed methods. These portfolios stick out like a sore thumb and exemplify why Romagna Sangiovese hasn’t reached its potential worldwide.

Alternatively, the use of concrete, steel, neutral barrels and larger-format barrels allows for a much clearer interpretation of Romagna's unique Sangiovese clone. Chiara Condello, of her own namesake winery and Condé (her family's historic estate), came to the same realization as she began developing her terroir-focused portfolio 10 years ago. Condello’s wines made a big splash internationally and continue to be some of the finest examples coming out of Romagna today. Condello’s gentle approach to extraction and fermentation, plus long aging in large 35-hectoliter casks, allows her to communicate regional flavor and varietal typicity in a package that consumers find widely appealing. The Condé portfolio has also fallen in step as Condello has slowly integrated her techniques into the winemaking there as well.