1995 Château Margaux

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2018 - 2035

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All early tasters I've spoken with to date agree that Chateau Margaux has done about as well as any Medoc chateau under the tricky conditions of the '97 harvest. "Our standards for quality have become even higher after the '96 and '95 vintages," points out manager Paul Pontallier. "In 1997 we had merlot up to 13.5% and we had terrific cabernet sauvignon at 11.5%," he noted. "But we had cabernet vats with similar grape sugars that were clearly less successful. For example, some of our cabernet on clay-rich chalky soil, which normally contributes to the structure of our wine, lacked its typical tannic density and did not make it into the final blend." There were actually three levels of selection in '97, with a very low 40% surviving the cut for the grand vin, 50% used for the Pavillon Rouge, and 10% declassified into a third wine. My retasting of '96 and '95 confirms that this is a stunning pair of vintages for Margaux.

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The anticipated final blend for '95 will contain only 14% merlot, the lowest percentage of any "normal" year in the past two decades, says régisseur Paul Pontailler. The best merlot here was simply not as good as the best cabernet in '95, according to Pontailler. Despite the stronger raw materials of '95 (more sugar, more acid, more tannins), the selection was as severe as the previous year, with about 50% of the crop being used for the grand vin. The result is a Margaux with great potential—as well as an unusually impressive Pavillon Rouge featuring about one-third merlot.

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