2006 Château Margaux

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"The really important things begin in August, but this year we had bad luck with the weather that month," said director Paul Pontallier. "The vines were continually wet and the foliage kept growing, so in the end we were not able to make a wine with great structure. On the other hand, we did not lose a single berry to mildew." Despite the extended growing season, which featured more than 120 days between the flowering and the harvest, the cabernet franc and petit verdot here did not reach full maturity, Pontallier added. That's the bad news. The good news is that the young 2007 Margaux may well have the purest, most perfumed aromas of the vintage. The selection for the grand vin was a very strict 32%, with another 48% going into the estate's Pavillon Rouge and the remaining 20% of the juice going into a third wine.

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"A great classic vintage for us in cabernet sauvignon," said Paul Pontallier. Because he considered the merlot to be less worthy, the grand vin contains a very high 90% cabernet sauvignon and just 4% merlot. Pontallier compares the new vintage to the '86, which he says had a similar level of tannins. "But 1986 was a classic in the context of the wines of 20 years ago, while 2006 is a modern classic, with greater purity and riper tannins. The vintages that have closed down in bottle are those that were picked with unripe tannins, like '86, '88 and '95." Incidentally, 2005 brought the highest IPT (indice de polyphenols totaux) ever measured at Margaux, and Pontallier noted that due to the combination of the tannins and very high alcohol he was even more careful with the extraction in '05 than he was with the 2006.

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