2009 Château Margaux
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Asked what he thought of his wonderful '09 Margaux, Paul Pontallier beamed and said, "This is the most concentrated Margaux we have ever made, but it is so smooth and balanced that I can tell from people's faces when they hear me say so that they just don't believe me." There are many reasons behind the success of the 2009 grand vin, chief among them being the small volume produced. Almost as important are the investments that have been made here in new steel temperature-controlled fermentation tanks and a more specific approach to vineyard work in which the vines within specific sections of vineyard plots are harvested separately and at different times. "For example, we have always had a parcel of merlot vines we never thought was good enough for the grand vin," Pontallier explained. "But by further dividing it up into four different sub-parcels, and by picking each one at ideal ripeness, we suddenly realized that one-quarter of the plot actually yields excellent grapes, the quality of which we weren't aware of previously." Readers should note that in an effort to further increase quality, Margaux declassified as much as 30% of its wine to third-level status. In fact, there's so much of this juice now that they are thinking of creating a new entry-level wine altogether.
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