1998 Château Margaux

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Margaux did not make the wine of the vintage in 1998, but it at or near the top in 1999 and 2000. "The 2000 is our most concentrated wine ever, even more concentrated than 1986," said estate manager Paul Pontallier. "The polyphenol levels are the highest since we've started measuring them, even higher than '95 and '86. The selection was particularly severe; we've had a third wine since 1997, but 2000 was the first great vintage since then." The 2000 Margaux offers a compelling combination of power and finesse. It should be extremely long-lived, thanks to the great density and muscular structure of its 80% cabernet sauvignon component. "But it's not a hard style," noted Pontallier, "it's not a frightening wine to taste young."

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Chateau Margaux's grand vin is an outstanding example of 1999, with power lurking behind the sweetness and roundness of the vintage. According to manager Paul Pontallier, this estate declassified a late-ripening parcel of cabernet sauvignon that's usually included in the first wine, and used saignee to reduce the volume of several of its other parcels by 10% to 12%. The result is a particularly dense '99, and a stronger-than-usual Pavillon Rouge, as concentrated asÂ—and perhaps more expressive thanÂ—the '98 a year ago.

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"Nineteen ninety-eight was one of the most surprising vintages I've ever witnessed," reported manager Paul Pontallier. "I was very optimistic in August but then much less optimistic at harvest time due to the rains. I expected the wine to be thinner, drier, diluted. But the grapes were ripe at fairly low alcohol levels, and I've been amazed by the concentration and density the wine shows today." Tannin levels were very high in '98, as high as in '95, says Pontallier, adding that only 1986 had more tannins. The estate did some saignee but does not use other techniques for concentrating the juice. "The potential alcohol level was too low to match the power of the wine, so chaptalization was a better approach. Using other methods of concentrating the wine would have risked concentrating the tough tannins as well, and the wine could have turned out too harsh." Pontallier describes the young '98 as between '95 and '86 in style, with gentler, rounder tannins than the '86 but more austere than the '95.

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