2005 Château Margaux

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This wine was tasted as part of our 2005 Bordeaux with Stephen Tanzer and Antonio Galloni event held in October, 2015.

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"The really important things begin in August, but this year we had bad luck with the weather that month," said director Paul Pontallier. "The vines were continually wet and the foliage kept growing, so in the end we were not able to make a wine with great structure. On the other hand, we did not lose a single berry to mildew." Despite the extended growing season, which featured more than 120 days between the flowering and the harvest, the cabernet franc and petit verdot here did not reach full maturity, Pontallier added. That's the bad news. The good news is that the young 2007 Margaux may well have the purest, most perfumed aromas of the vintage. The selection for the grand vin was a very strict 32%, with another 48% going into the estate's Pavillon Rouge and the remaining 20% of the juice going into a third wine.

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"A great classic vintage for us in cabernet sauvignon," said Paul Pontallier. Because he considered the merlot to be less worthy, the grand vin contains a very high 90% cabernet sauvignon and just 4% merlot. Pontallier compares the new vintage to the '86, which he says had a similar level of tannins. "But 1986 was a classic in the context of the wines of 20 years ago, while 2006 is a modern classic, with greater purity and riper tannins. The vintages that have closed down in bottle are those that were picked with unripe tannins, like '86, '88 and '95." Incidentally, 2005 brought the highest IPT (indice de polyphenols totaux) ever measured at Margaux, and Pontallier noted that due to the combination of the tannins and very high alcohol he was even more careful with the extraction in '05 than he was with the 2006.

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Having visited Chateau Margaux after finishing in the northern Medoc, I wondered how this great first growth could be as outstanding as most early tasters were rating it. After all, most chateau owners, at least those in the north, seemed to rank their cabernet ahead of their merlot, and Chateau Margaux has a good 20% merlot planted on the estate. Part of the explanation is that the grand vin at Margaux in 2005 includes just 8% merlot. As estate manager Paul Pontallier explained, leaving out most of the merlot was not really a function of the inherent quality of this variety in 2005. Rather, he said, "when our cabernet sauvignon is outstanding, our merlot sometimes can't fit into the blend." The young 2005 Margaux is one of the greatest young Bordeaux I have yet tasted: with its dominant cabernet component, powerful backbone (15% press wine is in the blend) and record 78 IPT, it's almost Pauillac-like in its expression of cabernet. The density and structure of the wine suggest that it will outlast any adult who buys it now.

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