2001 Château Margaux

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Chateau Margaux has made one of the monumental wines of the vintage-particularly impressive in light of the mixed performance of this appellation in 2003. Estate manager Paul Pontallier considers the 2003 to be the most concentrated wine he's ever made. "We normally seek balance," he told me. "We don't look for overconcentration, which can throw a wine off balance. But the yield in 2003 was just 30 hectoliters per hectare, our lowest in 25 years, except for the frost year of 1991." Still, Pontallier expressed surprise with the way the 2003 is turning out. "I didn't expect the wine to be so classic. I was expecting to find at least traces of the heat, but the wine is pure and fresh." Indeed, the pH of 3.8 and the acidity between 3.2 and 3.3 grams per liter are close to the 20-year average for this great first growth. Incidentally, the index of polyphenols was 75 in 2003, in part due to the estate's ripest cabernet franc ever; the prior record here was 70, reached in 2000, 1995 and 1986.

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The 2002 Margaux features 86% cabernet sauvignon, the highest ever for this great first growth, according to estate manager Paul Pontallier. "What about the 1986?" I asked. "In '86 the cabernet was so powerful we needed the merlot to balance it," he responded. Pontallier describes the 2002 as "classic, pure Margaux, but not extraordinary. It's more structured, with tighter-grained tannins, than the '01."

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The huge 2000 Margaux is a wine with a tendency to erase anything tasted next to it, but until I put the 2000 in my mouth I certainly enjoyed my young sample of the 2001. Estate manager Paul Pontallier describes the 2000 as "extraordinary and flamboyant; from the start the wine exploded in the mouth." The 2001, according to Pontallier, "doesn't pretend to be extraordinary. It's in a more linear style but it may be as long as the 2000." For the first time ever, the 2001 features more petit verdot (7.4%) than merlot (7.3%), as the former grape was exceptionally ripe in 2001. The trio of outstanding reds I tasted at Margaux did not overshadow a freakishly dense and rich 2001 Pavillon Blanc, made from a yield of just 28 hectoliters per hectare.

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