2000 Château Margaux
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2023 - 2075
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2021 - 2075
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The 2002 Margaux features 86% cabernet sauvignon, the highest ever for this great first growth, according to estate manager Paul Pontallier. "What about the 1986?" I asked. "In '86 the cabernet was so powerful we needed the merlot to balance it," he responded. Pontallier describes the 2002 as "classic, pure Margaux, but not extraordinary. It's more structured, with tighter-grained tannins, than the '01."
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The huge 2000 Margaux is a wine with a tendency to erase anything tasted next to it, but until I put the 2000 in my mouth I certainly enjoyed my young sample of the 2001. Estate manager Paul Pontallier describes the 2000 as "extraordinary and flamboyant; from the start the wine exploded in the mouth." The 2001, according to Pontallier, "doesn't pretend to be extraordinary. It's in a more linear style but it may be as long as the 2000." For the first time ever, the 2001 features more petit verdot (7.4%) than merlot (7.3%), as the former grape was exceptionally ripe in 2001. The trio of outstanding reds I tasted at Margaux did not overshadow a freakishly dense and rich 2001 Pavillon Blanc, made from a yield of just 28 hectoliters per hectare.
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Margaux did not make the wine of the vintage in 1998, but it at or near the top in 1999 and 2000. "The 2000 is our most concentrated wine ever, even more concentrated than 1986," said estate manager Paul Pontallier. "The polyphenol levels are the highest since we've started measuring them, even higher than '95 and '86. The selection was particularly severe; we've had a third wine since 1997, but 2000 was the first great vintage since then." The 2000 Margaux offers a compelling combination of power and finesse. It should be extremely long-lived, thanks to the great density and muscular structure of its 80% cabernet sauvignon component. "But it's not a hard style," noted Pontallier, "it's not a frightening wine to taste young."
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