2021 Château Margaux

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“We had some frost issues, but not a lot of mildew pressure,” explained Managing Director Philippe Bascaules. “Dry extract numbers were pretty much in line with 2019, although the chemistry of the wines is different. We saigneed some lots and chaptalized others lightly, as needed.” One of the more pragmatic administrators in the Médoc, Bascaules is quite adamant about a flexible farming regime that allows the vineyard team to intervene as needed. As for the wines, they are absolutely gorgeous.

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It was a gorgeous sunny day when I called in at Château Margaux, where I tasted with Philippe Bascaules, Corinne Mentzelopoulos and her son Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos, who appears to be taking a much more prominent role in the running of the First Growth. “We had some frost, so we had to work many nights spraying water on some blocks and also using wind machines,” Bascaules explained. “We lost around 1.5-hectares on the white, more than 10%, and five-hectares of the red, fortunately not the best blocks. So, it did not really affect the Grand Vin or either Pavillons. Spring was rainy with a difficult May and June, so we had to treat many times using copper and sulphur (18 times) including weekends and Bank holiday. It was not a late vintage. Flowering was 1 to 6 June, and véraison was around the beginning of August. Fortunately, it was quite dry in the summer. After the picking of the white, we had 45mm of rain, so we started to pick the Merlot on 24 September and finished the Cabernet Sauvignon on 14 October. More vigorous blocks showed a bit of rot, but we were able to wait and were happy to pick when we wanted. Fermentations were less complicated than recent years because of alcohol levels, the yeast was able to finish the fermentation easier. Also, the extraction was slower and could be controlled. We stopped doing some remontage two or three years ago with respect to the Petit Verdot and Cabernet, so it was about the same, but we did a little more saignée to compensate for the size of the berry. The surprise is the concentration of the wines in terms of tannins, which is at the same level as the 2019 vintage. The yield is 36hL/ha, which is pretty good for the region; 36% is in Château Margaux and 30% in Pavillon Rouge, so volumes are the same as last year.”

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