Mediterranean Spain: Diversity and
Consistency

BY JOSH RAYNOLDS&nbsp;| APRIL 25, 2019&nbsp; The vast area that I’ve
chosen to loosely define as Mediterranean Spain encompasses those regions that
extend from northeastern Catalonia (Catalunya or Cataluña, as the area is known
locally) to the country’s southeast corner and all the way west to Andalusia (Andalucía)
on the far southwestern coast. With rare exception, these zones have been
experiencing a run of almost uniformly very good to epic vintages, even as they
produce wines of often dramatically divergent styles from equally disparate
varieties.

Two thousand sixteen was
a hot, droughty year across the Mediterranean zones, and resulting yields were
on the historically low side. As a very general rule, the wines show a bit more
freshness than their 2015 siblings, which are the result of a similarly hot
vintage. Casting a wide net, I would say that wine lovers who prize elegance
over power and weight will likely favor the ‘16s, but I suspect that the ‘15s
will prove to be better cellar candidates, even if the wines don’t achieve the
elegance of the younger vintage.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1556203323202-Priorat%27s+high-altitide+vineyards%2C+such+as+those+at+Grattalops%2C+produce+wines+of+great+depth+and+structure+as+well+as+elegance._copy.jpg"> 

Priorat's high-altitide vineyards, such as those at Grattalops, produce wines of great depth and structure as well as elegance.The Case for Cava 

One exciting recent
development for Spanish wine is the emergence of more and more world-class
Cavas from the Penedès region (just south of Barcelona), whose sparkling wines
have long been the country’s unchallenged standard-bearer for the category. It’s
been a slow, steep climb for Cava in export markets, which were mostly
introduced to the wines in the 1970s and 1980s by inexpensive examples of very
low or abysmal quality. The reputation of the region suffered greatly, and even
today there are numerous consumers and even members of the trade who judge the
entire Cava category based on its lowest common denominator. That’s their loss,
as there is an ever-increasing number of Cavas made by quality-minded, often
artisanal producers whose wines bear comparison to the big dog of the bubbly
world, Champagne. Fortunately for sparkling wine producers worldwide, the ever-accelerating
price of decent Champagne (and even some not-so-decent) is pushing many
consumers to consider alternatives for their fizzy fix, which plays right into
Cava’s hand.

While there are numerous
outstanding Cavas in the under-$20.00 category, the real action, in my opinion,
is in the $20.00 to $40.00 category, where I see a range of serious wines that
exhibit complexity, depth and balance and the ability to age gracefully. Most
of these are made by small, family-owned bodegas, and while they may not be easy
to track down, I think curious bubbly lovers will be thrilled by many of them,
which, in a fair number of cases, bear comparison to Champagnes costing twice
as much or even more. That said, many Cavas, especially those made from the
local Xarel-lo, Parellada and Macabeo varieties, do tend to show a slightly
more earthy tinge than most Champagnes and often more weight as well, with the
exception of no-dosage, Extra Brut or
Brut Nature examples. That extra bit of heft generally makes Cava extremely
food-friendly, often more so than similarly priced or even more expensive
Champagnes that are on the delicate, even dilute side and thus better suited to
aperitif duty than serving at the table.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1556203303694-The+Cartoixa+de+Escaladei+in+Priorat+was+a+working+monastery%2C+with+vineyards%2C+from+the+1100s+until+it+was+ransacked+by+the+local+peasantry+in+1835._copy.png"> The Cartoixa de Escaladei in Priorat was a working monastery, with vineyards, from the 1100s until it was ransacked by the local peasantry in 1835.Tarragona’s Myriad Styles and Exceptional Potential 

It’s hard to believe
that the red wines of Tarragona, especially the world-class versions from the
steep hillsides of Priorat, have only existed in their current form since the
early 1990s. Long home to old plantings of Garnacha (Garnatxa) and Carignan (Carineña
or Carinyena), the region’s potential was only realized after a handful of
young producers, led by Alvaro Palacios, took on the task of elevating the
wines to an elite level. Less than a generation later, they have succeeded,
often remarkably so. Such is Priorat’s quality that in 2009 it was designated
as a Denominación de Origen Calificada, or DOCa, Spain’s highest regional
classification and one that previously had been bestowed on only one other
area, Rioja. (They are still the only two DOCa regions in the country.) Priorat
is a hot, dry area, and while there’s always the danger of superripe fruit and
consequently high-octane wines, the best vineyards here are situated high up in
the mountains, where cooling winds and cold nights preserve acidity.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1556202928719-Priorat%27s+vineyards+are+protected+from+inclement+weather+by+the+nearby+Serra+de+Montsant+mountain+range._copy.jpg"> 

Priorat's vineyards are protected from inclement weather by the nearby Serra de Montsant mountain range. Predictably, numerous
other wineries were established, some by producers with the same commitment to
quality as the pioneers, but – equally predictably – also by producers who were
eager to cash in on Priorat’s new-found fame with minimal effort. International
varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as Syrah, were
planted alongside the old local varieties, resulting in a rising tide of wines
that lacked real character, much less regional identity. To be fair, some of
the first wave of producers planted French grapes as well, but the imports generally
played minor roles in the resulting wines, and the last decade has seen most of
those producers begin replacing their French vines with Garnacha and Carineña.

Neighboring Montsant,
which effectively surrounds Priorat, has also been realizing its potential over
the past decade and, because of its relative obscurity compared to its famous
neighbor, prices often lag well behind quality. Made from the same palette of
varieties as Priorat, Montsant’s wines tend to exhibit slightly less depth,
power and complexity than the best examples of Priorat. But when compared to
Priorats at similar price points, the undervalued Montsants often outshine Priorats
whose prices are inflated by their fancy address.

The new kid on the block
in Tarragona, commercially speaking, is Terra Alta, which lies about 25 miles
west and just south of Priorat and Montsant. As the name suggests, this is a
high-altitude growing region, with clay, limestone and sandy soils that,
combined with the relatively cool climate, are conducive to producing elegant,
vibrant red wines (based mostly on Garnacha and Carineña) and well-balanced,
fresh whites, made mainly from Garnacha Blanca, the best of which I have
sometimes confused, blind, with white Burgundy or even Chablis. As with
Montsant, pricing for the wines here has not yet caught up with quality, so
value-minded readers should pay attention to this region.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1556203034738-Terra+Alta%27s+steep%2C+elevated+vineyards+experience+a+great+swing+of+blazingly+hot+summers+and+cold%2C+snowy+winters._copy.jpg"> 

Terra Alta's steep, elevated vineyards experience a great swing of blazingly hot summers and cold, snowy winters.The Generosity of Valencia 

Generally hot, dry conditions
in the Valencia region set the stage for generous, full-bodied red wines,
mostly produced from the native, late-ripening Monastrell and Garnacha
varieties. While it has long been asserted that Monastrell is the same grape as
Mourvèdre, recent research casts doubt on that belief, although the two
varieties are almost certainly from the same family tree. The best Yecla wines
deliver fabulous value and show abundant dark fruit and spice character,
usually in a forward style that makes them enjoyable almost immediately upon
release.

The same can be said for
the wines of neighboring Alicante, but in most cases – though not all, by any
means – I find those wines to be a bit brawnier, more tannic and even rustic
when tasted alongside wines from Yecla. Both regions produce white wines, but I
usually find them to be heavy and lacking in freshness, which should be no
surprise given the often extremely hot, arid conditions here.

Utiel-Requena, which is about
an hour’s drive west of the coastal city of Valencia, is a relative newcomer to
most export markets, and so far, the wines show promise. This is a high-altitude
region where winegrowing dates back to at least the 6th century BCE, and the
native red variety, Bobal, is still the workhorse. The wines tend to be full-bodied
and fruit-driven, while the best examples are made with an eye to energy,
making this another region to follow. I have come across a handful of interesting white wines
(which make up less than 6% of the zone’s production), especially bubbly
versions (interestingly, allowed in Requena but not Utiel), but it is the reds
that are most worthy of readers’ attention for now.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1556203252925-Rolling+hills%2C+varying+exposures+and+a+range+of+soil+types+all+contribute+to+the+dfferent+styles+of+Montsant%27s+wines._copy.jpg"> 

Rolling hills, varying exposures and a range of soil types all contribute to the different&nbsp;styles of Montsant's wines.Jumilla Delivers Superb Value 

In the case of Jumilla, “insane
value” isn’t far off the mark for expressive, fleshy yet energetic,
fruit-driven red wines. We’re talking numerous excellent wines in the under-$15.00
category and even some under $10.00. This relatively large region encompasses
some 32,000 hectares of vines (half of Rioja’s hectarage, six times that of
Priorat and a third more than Ribera del Duero, for perspective). Jumilla is
home to an impressively vast collection of old, bush-grown and
drought-resistant Monastrell vines, which make up almost two-thirds of the
entire region’s plantings. While I’ve had plenty of Jumillas stand the test of
cellaring, especially the superb wines of Bodegas El Nido, the zone’s true
strength, I believe, is in deeply fruity, concentrated and highly perfumed
wines that deliver immediate pleasure for ridiculously low prices.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1556202965203-Jumilla+is+home+to+a+vast+number+of+ancient%2C+bush-grown+Monastrell+vines+that+produce+robust%2C+fruit-driven+wines_copy.jpg"> 

Jumilla is home to a vast number of ancient, bush-grown Monastrell vines that produce robust, fruit-driven wines.Andalusia’s Scarce, Intriguing Red Wines 

Andalusia (Andalucía) is
well known, of course, for white-grape-based Sherry, but a handful of producers
have begun to resuscitate the region’s ancient red wine tradition, established
at least 2,000 years ago, when the Phoenicians first settled here. Tintilla,
by far the best known and most commonly encountered local variety, has been
discovered to actually be Graciano, which is well established in Rioja, raising
the question of whether the grape originated in Andalusia or in Rioja. Given
the history of Spain, my bet is that the Rioja plantings are imports from the
south, but I’m careful about saying that around Rioja people. As w<a target="_blank"></a>ith Rioja, Tintilla&nbsp;produces a relatively high-acid
wine, with firm structure and noteworthy energy and focus. It’s still extremely
early days, but so far, I’m impressed and excited to see which way things go.You Might Also Enjoy <a target="_blank" href="https://www.vinous.com/articles/spain-s-northern-regions-keep-it-cool-march-2019">Spain’s Northern Regions Keep It Cool</a>, Josh Raynolds, March 2019<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/rioja-looks-back-and-ahead-feb-2019">Rioja Looks Back and Ahead</a>, Josh Raynolds, February 2019 <a target="_blank" href="https://www.vinous.com/articles/spain-s-new-releases-triumphs-and-travails-may-2017">Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails</a>, Josh Raynolds, May 2017<a target="_blank" href="https://www.vinous.com/articles/2017-new-releases-from-spain-part-1-jan-2017">2017 New Releases From Spain, Part 1</a>, Josh Raynolds, January 2017<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/exploring-mediterranean-spain-jan-2016">Exploring Mediterranean Spain</a>, Josh Raynolds, January 2016<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/atlantic-spain-jan-2016">Atlantic Spain</a>, Josh Raynolds,&nbsp;January 2016

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