Talking Spirits with Nicolas Palazzi

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 Navazos Palazzi Brandy de Jerez
 Solera Gran Reserva (bottled March 2013) &nbsp; &nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 Navazos Palazzi Single Cask
 Montilla Old Brandy (bottled August 2013)
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 Navazos Palazzi Cask Strength Rum
 (bottled July 2013)
 </td>
 <td>
 94</td></tr></tbody></table>

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1386089002879-2013-10-24+14.47.36+-+Copy.jpg"> I was introduced to Nicolas Palazzi
and his spirits at Eleven Madison Park, where I had one of the greatest meals
of my life a few years back. Then Wine Director John Ragan poured me a glass of
Palazzi’s single-cask <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=1951+cognac">1951 Devant
la Porte Grande Cognac</a> and I was hooked. Originally from Bordeaux, Palazzi
is essentially a micro-negociant
specializing in spirits. Palazzi purchases casks of Cognac, Sherry, rum and
Pineau des Charentes, finishes the aging, and bottles the spirits under his labels. I have had a chance to taste a number of Palazzi’s single-cask
Cognacs, many of which remain unreleased, such as the L’Artisan du Cognac No.
23, 25, 50 and 58, each named after their respective vintages, and they have
never been anything less than outstanding. These current releases are from
Palazzi’s joint venture with Equipo Navazos, who are well known to sherry
lovers for their extraordinary wines. Palazzi also markets a variety of aged
Pineau des Charentes under his Paul &amp; Marie Fils label. Production is tiny,
so if you see anything from L’Artisan du Cognac, Paul &amp; Marie Fils or
Navazos Palazzi don’t hesitate. These are magnificent, artisan spirits that
deserve just as much attention as the best small production wines from anywhere
in the world. Readers might enjoy the <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/multimedia/talking-spirits-with-nicolas-palazzi-dec-2013">short video</a> I shot with Nicolas Palazzi
right after this tasting.

The pale-colored Brandy de Jerez Solera Gran Reserva, a
single barrel of Spanish Brandy aged in a Fino sherry cask, is laced with
smoke, orange peel, pear, almond, flint and white stone fruits. Sweet spices, a
hint of American oak and bright saline notes appear on the vibrant, dry,
bracing finish. With time in the glass, some of the more angular contours
soften nicely. &nbsp;The Solera Gran Reserva
spent three years in a brandy cask followed by three and a half years in the
Fino cask from which it was bottled. Smoke, tobacco, worn-in leather, dried
plums, earthiness and orange peel are some of the many notes that meld together
in the Single Cask Montilla Old Brandy.
Soft, open and caressing, the Montilla Old Brandy is at once plush and
generous, yet it also maintains gorgeous freshness. The flavors are nicely
evolved and mature, but there is no sense of heaviness or sweetness here at
all. This cask of 50+ year-old Brandy was aged in an Oloroso barrel. The Cask Strength Rum is a 5 year-old
Caribbean rum that spent 10 years in Oloroso casks. Rich, powerful and wonderfully
smoky/spiced scents saturate the palate in an exotic, intense spirit loaded
with class and complexity. Orange peel, hazelnuts and cloves give the rum a
kick of acidity to balance the soft, plush texture. Readers need to take their
time. This is a contemplative spirit that will seriously reward patience. There
is no need to rush, but plenty of pleasure awaits those who can find this
exceptional rum.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1386089030879-2013-10-24+15.17.18+-+Copy.jpg"> 

-Antonio Galloni

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